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727gal build


danlu_gt
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I've ordered my dream tank, 120"x42"x36"H.  I've been debating if I want to convert a guest bedroom to sump filter room or use the closet under the staircase as sump filter room.  I've came up with first draft of sump design that will fit in the closet of size 110" x 45" and provide a little over 150gal capacity backflow when the return pumps are powered off.  One of my concern with this design is if any one of 4 return pumps need to be clean/replaced, I might have a hard time getting access to it.  Also, I want to add a sink so the sump probably can't be any longer than 60" and I'll have to lose some weight so I can fit in the closet with the sink.  Please take a look and let me know if there's something I'm overlooking.

 

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Edited by danlu_gt
typo
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Double and taller than I'm thinking.   I just drew up plans for a 65" long x 40" wide x 26" tall.   I want taller than 24", but worried about going 27" or taller.   And you're doing 36".   Mainly fish tank, or still heavy corals?

I need to send out requests for quotes.  Who'd you pick, and how long did they quote to manufacture?   I'm a glass person, yours glass?  

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I had a 94 x 36 x 35H tank for years. I had access from behind via a 1" piece of plywood between the tank and stand that stuck out an additional 12" in back, so I could stand on it. I have long arms but you need to do more than just touch the bottom of the tank, you need to be able to pick up things and for me that required a mask and snorkel. I would never recommend that unless you had a FOWLR tank. I had a number of long tongs and SS tongs but I still had problems with the depth. Fish only tanks are better when they are deep but deep reef tanks are a problem.

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yea... I don't have long arms. hehe   Back in 2008 when I went snorkeling in the Red Sea off Egypt, I love how fishes can dash under the corals shelf.  I order the glass tank from Crystal Dynamic Aquariums.  They said it'll take about 3 months.

My plans is to have very low tank stand, maybe around 20".  I'll need to look into getting someone to build a steel stand instead of DIY wood stand.

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I've ordered my dream tank, 120"x42"x36"H.  I've been debating if I want to convert a guest bedroom to sump filter room or use the closet under the staircase as sump filter room.  I've came up with first draft of sump design that will fit in the closet of size 110" x 45" and provide a little over 150gal capacity backflow when the return pumps are powered off.  One of my concern with this design is if any one of 4 return pumps need to be clean/replaced, I might have a hard time getting access to it.  Also, I want to add a sink so the sump probably can't be any longer than 60" and I'll have to lose some weight so I can fit in the closet with the sink.  Please take a look and let me know if there's something I'm overlooking.
 
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Dang, congratulations on that! What's the plan for reinforcing the floor and evaporation? Those are two big things at tanks that size.

I don't seem to understand the sump flow correctly. The left side says drains to sump, but isn't the image of the sump? Also, the sump is two different sections connected by the ATS? That's kind of how I see it. If that's the case, I would definitely go with a different design that more easily moves water from one side to the next. Like I said, maybe I'm not understanding everything correctly.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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On 7/5/2020 at 8:57 AM, Higher Thinking said:

Dang, congratulations on that! What's the plan for reinforcing the floor and evaporation? Those are two big things at tanks that size.

I don't seem to understand the sump flow correctly. The left side says drains to sump, but isn't the image of the sump? Also, the sump is two different sections connected by the ATS? That's kind of how I see it. If that's the case, I would definitely go with a different design that more easily moves water from one side to the next. Like I said, maybe I'm not understanding everything correctly.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

For floor support, I'm planning to get some concrete pier block with 4x4 and 2x6s in the crawlspace.  I'm planning to add exhaust vent fan and dehumidify unit in both the sump room and the display tank room.  I probably should seal the dry wall with some sort of paint.

The pictures just show the sump.  The right side of the sump is extended so it can hold additional 60gal or so of water.  I'm estimating with normal sump water level, there would be additional 150gal capacity for DT drain when return pumps are off.

The idea is that the 2 display tanks overflow will the plumbed under the floor to the 5 blue 1.5" PVC to the sump.  Then the 2 return pumps to each DT using the green PVCs under the floor as well.  The 2 ATS are shown floating above the sump.  I'll need to figure out that part later.  I know ATS can be very effective but may only use them as backup.  I thinking of using vodka dosing with auto skimmer neck cleaning with skimmate waste connected to "mini toilet" that will flush to the sewer line.  With my current setup in Hillsboro, it run into issues when I'm gone for 1 or 2 months at a time.

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  • 2 months later...

Sweet!!  I love a huge tank build.  Couple hints..  pull the outlet covers off and use spray foam to seal where the wirew exist the boxes.  The warm moist air WILL get pulled into your wall in the winter. 

Home depot sells an adjustable height aluminum scaffold that is THE BOMB for tanks. 

Check out this fan unit.  It has a temp and humidty monitor that turns the fan on and off.  

 https://www.acinfinity.com/hvac-home-ventilation/inline-duct-fan-systems/cloudline-t6-quiet-inline-duct-fan-system-with-temperature-and-humidity-controller-6-inch/?gclid=CjwKCAjw4_H6BRALEiwAvgfzq-E4fKTthaG3az-OqIOtTafQOcAgvlOzYTEMuPXn8lDKTuTHlYUmuRoCIW0QAvD_BwE

I would also highly highly highly suggest a closed loop for circulation. 

You going to rock halides??   😆 

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Convert the room. You've probably going to anyway after getting frustrated trying to work in a closet. You're going to be doing a lot of work in that space, so mind your ergonomics. You may want to pour a concrete pad instead of just pier blocks. If you're crawlspace is bone dry it may not matter but I've had pier blocks settle over time, better to spread that weight over a larger area. Also 2x10's or 2x12's. Overbuild from the start, you aren't going to be able to fix anything once the tank is full. 

Edited by half-astronaut
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  • 2 months later...

Holy expletive. I am continually impressed with the ambition, ingenuity and, there's no other way to say it, boundless love of the craft that many of you guys have. This is an extraordinary display tank.

Aside from weight management, which I have to believe you have overbuilt for peace of mind, my only concern would be turnover rate in the system for water quality management. But I reckon you've already worked that out, as well.

Like the others, I'm really looking forward to posts on this system's further development. Such is the stuff from which fish and invert geeks' dreams are woven....pros, too!

 

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Made some small progress...

Styrofoam wire cutter is pretty awesome... Smooth and clean cut!  Also got matted black tape around it.  Ordered fancy blue PVC which should arrive in a couple days.  My next challenge will be to drill 5 2.5" holes in my floor to align with the 3 overflow drains and 2 returns.  PVC outer diameters are 1.9", so I figure 2.5" hole will give me enough margin for error and not too oversized.

Tore down 3 of the smaller tanks from my old system.  Setup a temporary 50gal cube to quarantine my existing corals.  I dipped them for FW a couple times already so they're not to happy.  Transfer 2 tangs and snails from the tanks I emptied over to help with algae control.  Tangs are not too happy with the temporary downsize.  Hopefully they'll be moving into the new display tank soon.

 

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