albertareef

I hadn't thought about this before but this is a really useful selling point for a DC pump. I would love to not have to completely shut the skimmer off if/when I introduce something (e.g. epoxy) into the tank that would normally cause it to overflow or skim too wet. Hmm.

Ok, you are just messing with us now Brian - spiot? I couldn't even type that without it autocorrecting twice! Looking forward to seeing this one play out. Maybe by the time the next one comes up the tank will be cooperating with me and I can participate. In the meantime, good luck to all and lets see some fancy frags!

Yeah, that made me do a double take as well...

Haha - I knew there was a reason I didn't bother to try and memorize all these zoas! They look really cool together whatever they happen to be

Lots of nice pieces there Cody! What are the two zoas in that second pic?

Hehe. I was wondering if anyone would say anything about that. One good part of beta testing the new site is that I now know how to edit my own topic headings. I had a real embarrassing one on there for a while.

Hmm. Those look kind of familiar - seems like I have seen them somewhere recently ? Very nice!

Sounds like a low pressure safety shutoff could be an issue then. Can you tell if your unit has test/fill connections on the refrigeration loop? If you have ever looked at your car AC you might know what these look like - metal snap-fit connections typically. I ask because, if you do, it's possible to get compressed cans of refrigerant that you can snap on there to refill the system easily. Which might be worth a try. You would have to crack the case open for this so not sure it's up your alley. Unfortunately it seems a lot of these don't have the test/fill ports and the lines are just crimped off at a fill T... which means a more expensive trip to a refrigerant specialist (insert sad face here).

Couple things I can think of off hand are either a thermostat failure (doesn't correctly read the water temp) or a low pressure safety shutoff. The latter keeps you from burning up the compressor if you run low on refrigerant. Does it display an accurate temp? If so, the second option seems most likely as I doubt these would have two separate temp senders.

So that is Mad Creeper Mike then or Mike Creeper Mad? Either way a bit intimidating ?

Totally forgot about the 6-line... was thinking about the solar(ish) wrasse. I was wondering since he didn't end up on your stock list - thought he might have never made it out of the overflow.

Nice! What chalice is that? I am sure I should know but am woefully under-informed on these guys.

Well... guess I need to carve out some time this weekend!

Kim dishing the knowledge after hours! Yeah, couldn't sleep either... Randall, did you decide whether or not to run a reactor? Guessing you probably won't need to if you end up going the route of more frequent water changes. BTW, what happened to the wrasse?

Thanks for the heads up but I did manage to get some a while back. Much appreciated though.

Making progress! Looking good so far.

Ahh - so it is what it looks like! Have to admit some initial confusion looking at that pic. Definitely cool.

This is one of the reasons I haven't gone this route is how to make sure the unlimited water making potential of my RODI doesn't end up all over the floor of my dinning room! Definitely a safety component I would incorporate into any direct feed setup. Another approach would be to tie into a water sensor (spill sensor) shutoff - of course, that would mean you would have already added enough to the tank to cause an overflow!

Thanks Kim you're the best! (don't tell Holly I said that ).

I would love some of these but you know my story...

That neon green candy cane is amazing in person!

Assuming it is for "Total Dissolved Solids" - which is a common measurement on these RODI units (see TheClark's pic above). I think the issue might be that one typically sees a brief spike in TDS when first starting up the RODI so, for the best quality, you would usually not collect the initial filtrate and wait for the TDS to stabilize. If you are doing your ATO directly from the RODI to your sump, you end up dumping that initial, less pure, water into the tank. I would be curious how big a problem this might actually be given that an RODI connected directly to a sump via ATO probably never sits in the "non running" mode for all that much time - at least not on a large system. This might significantly reduce that startup TDS spike. Then again, I might be completely missing the point (as per usual).

These are amazing! Props to an Acro master... you give us all hope (and envy).

BTW - meant to mention that I like the placement and the symmetry it creates with the corner-set fireplace. Very nice! If you ever get bored with that gonipora...

This is pretty much my setup as well. My "float" is actually a pair of redundant reed switches tied to a stand alone ATO unit (relay) running an aqua lifter drawing from a 5 gallon container. There is a separate "overflow" reed switch tied to my Aquatronica controller that powers the whole ATO unit and cuts off if something goes wrong. So, basically two levels of fail safe - one on the ATO itself and one via controller.