pdxmonkeyboy

So i was going to bite the $350 bullet and get an apogee sq-120 par meter even though that is a big outlay for something you don't use often. Then I saw just the bare sensor for sale and the description said "self powered". .. wait a minute.. it converts light energy to electrical current?? A little bit of google and yes indeed, you can make your own par meter with a sensor and volt meter!! I heard but did not confirm that quantum actually has a tutorial on how to do it! So i havent tested against another par meter but yhe measurements seemed really.close.from.my last check. Anyways, you need the following: 1. one agogee sq120 sensor. this is the one designed to read artificial light. 2. a cheap volt meter. i went harbor freight free with coupon model and the readings are almoat identical to my professiinal $150 fluke meter.. 3. some kind of rod or tube to mount the sensor to. I used acrylic rod from tapp, cut it at a 45 and welded a small mounting plate to the end if it. So yeah... mount sensor, wrap most of the wire around your rod, cut the ends off the multometer leads and twist and tape them to the sensor leads (the clear wire just leave free). black to black, red to red. turn the multimeter on and turn the dial to 200mv. Multiply the number on the screen by 5 and that is your par. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

you know you want a bigger tank now... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

i have used tims with pretty good success. On my new tank i had some uncured live rock (or should i say dying rock) and my ammonia shot up to .75 ppm. i added prodibio biodigest and overnight, zero ammonia. it comes in glass vials filled with nitrogen gass which creates an oxygen free environment which is important if the bacteria is to be kept in stasis. bacteria in stasis can stay viable for thousands of years so when someone who doesnt really understand advanced biology says "how can living bacteria stay alive in a bottle without food".. just back away slowly. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

just an observation: but its a funny thing in this hobby that as soon as you put something in any kind of vessel it becomes "a reactor" You have carbon in your system? "yeah, i have a carbon reactor". You growing chaeto? no, i have a chaeto reactor though. I looked at both and to me, a ball of chaeto is just easier, cleaner, and about 10x cheaper. It doesn't require any seperate pump, plumbing or additional hardware to work except a light. Maintenance consists of grabbing a chunk of chaeto and throwing it in the compost. If you don't have the space or fuge design for it that is a different story. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

What would an AEFW display tank really look like? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I have done it. man oh man is it some work. buy a lot of sand paper and just as clark said. start around 600 or so. The most important thing is to COMPLETLY wash the tank when you switch grits of sand paper. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

would love to get some magicians and fire and ice zoas!! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I think I am going to cry foul a little. #1. hair algae does not have "translucent filaments". #2. hair algae grows MUCH more dense than chaeto ever will. My big rub is this... you have not presented any data to back up the thinly veiled claim that algae scrubbers are more effective than chaeto balls. You cannot show evidence on ONE SIDE of the argument to prove a point. Yeah ok, light diminishes the deeper one goes in a chaeto ball. Does it not diminish as it passes through a matt of hair algae? Would a rolling ball of chaeto have more phosynthetically active surface area than a mat of alage? Given the physical structure of both species, which can effectively have more photosynthetically active space? You can have a HUGE ball of rolling chaeto, not so much the case with hair algae. But alas, the algae is much denser.. thereby having the ability to process more light. I'm not saying hair alage can be a more effective filter. Maybe it can..unfortunately, you have not really shed any more light on which is more effective. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

are those green pallys also free Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

obviously 1/4 line varies, but as we speak, my home depot 1/4 polyethalene? hose is pushing 90psi into my RO/DI. i dont think you need any kind of pressure reducer. alberta... i think your remote rez would be childs play. fish a 1/4" line and low voltage wire down the wall into the basement. float switch and water line .. done. (well, and an additional float switch and small $10 12volt relay to act as a safety. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Going going gone. R3 picked up the remaining socks so it seems that the willamette valley reefers are no longer going to be washing their socks in the laundry. willipa, have you tried the socks yet? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Ok, this is the pump that I have. NIB. It has a 35psi switch (meaning it shuts off at 35 psi) Which is nice as if you are using it with a float switch it (should..i don't know how much pressure a float switch can hold) shut off when your res is full. Based on physics, a pump with 35 psi can lift water about 80 feet. (one PSI lifts water 2.31 feet). $120 new on amazon. I'll sell for $80. https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-04305500A-Water-System-Pumps/dp/B002MY2IUW

Just buy a new tank and I will help you with shoring up the floor, plumbing basement sump, etc. I can not tell you how nice it is having the sump, skimmer and pumps in a location that you can just spill water and then just shrug. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

i suppose i will let you in on a little secret.. plastic plants are the new SPS.... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

So excited. Just put my first batch of fish in QT for the new tank. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

we were using a similar pump to push water up about 15 feet and 120' down the warehouse. i am quite certain it would work. My partner bought it then we didnt need it. I will see what model it is. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

8' of head? that can't possibly be correct as it has a 100psi shut off. maybe 8' of siphon? you are definately going to need to push the water to the tank, not pull it. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

you need a low flow, high pressure diaphram pump. I believe i have a brand new at the warehouse if you are interested. i believe it is a shurflow. it takes 3/8 tubing. 12v dc. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

yeah ok, thanks. pm me Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

how is the tabk going also off topic... you race with ommra I have been jonesing for a track day, a race... SOMETHING to get on the slippery edge Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

my setup doesnt really produce microbubbles but when starting and stopping the pump there were bubbles trapped in there. 100 micron is smaaaaaal. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

still have about 20 socks available. i can promise that after using these you will toss the felt ones Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Around the portland area i pretty much only go to cuttlefish or seahorse. Seahorse has nice coral and fish. He has been investing in nice corals lately. Cuttlefish is for sure the highest end store in the area with lots of REALLY nice coral and fish. Both have decent prices Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

awesome looking tanks!! i cant wait till my new tank settles in. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

i have the red sea pro? nitrate test... the one that comes in their algae control kit. Has been working fine for me. i did buy myself a milwaukie low range phosphate photometer for xmas.. now THAT thing is the bomb!!! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk