ChrisQ

I have been skimming though the progress of a thread on RC with using Fluconazole, it seems to be working for them, only time will tell i guess. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2607958 With some goggling (Fluconazole and bryopsis) I've found some info and am currently reading up more on it but translating may be a problem. We have similar systems in terms of water volume and having a tied in frag tank. I also tried Kent and now on the second dose of Vibrant. I went a little nuts with my battle and tore all my infected rock from my display (Mostly due to turf algae) and scrubbed my frag tray out the best i could. The only thing in the frag tray is a pond basket with all my nems, this is proving to be one of the hardest parts to eradicate it from. I left a large infected rock in my sump/fuge for a couple months and blasted it with light in an attempt to "out compete" it from getting any sort of foot hold on the new rock in the display, this worked for the most part but is a horrible idea and would never do it again being i didn't really accomplish anything, it's still in the system. Just before this last snow storm hit i drained my fuge and pulled this infected rock that was now about 3'' thick and tossed it along with a small ball of cheato that would not grow and was covered in cyano. Gill&Fin being the awesome person she is hooked me up with a couple huge chunks of cheato to get me started again. Thanks again! Also thanks bamburgb for offering some up! I wish a had a ATS set up because even without testing i can already see a difference in the color of some of my corals. PO4 may have risen with removing that rock and the cheato not being able to keep up, not sure, i just know that rock was sucking up tons of nutrients ready for export, but with it being bryopsis i fear it spreading everywhere if harvested so it was only a temp situation for me but it sure made me want a ATS more! I still have so much to learn about nutrient export even the basics. Here is a paragraph i found that sparked my interest to learn more about it. I'm not suggesting you do this, just sharing "To combat filamentous algae "difficult", both Bryopsis as Derbésia, I have used and recommended is the FLUCONAZOL at a dose of 9 mg / liter SINGLE DOSE and directly on the display. It is reef safe. Fluconazole has the mechanism of action blocking the synthesis of ergosterol, a structural fat present in the cell membranes of some algae, among which the aforementioned, which gives them flexibility and endurance. When it blocks the synthesis of this fat also present in fungi, the cell wall and membranes algae weaken, and they are exposed to the aggression of the medium and even herbivorous; cleaning staff and duty algueiros start to eat them. This fat, ergosterol is not present in the cell membranes of animals and higher plants nor the zooxanthellae of corals, so it does not affect them. The drug is purchased at any pharmacy, but excercises (click the link) usually has the best price. It is an antimycotic, not an antibiotic, so do not need prescription. Usually come into capsules of 150 mg, powder filled, which must be opened and the powder (only powder) dissolved in a little deionised water, then pouring the thus obtained solution in the tank of the display or in the sump, preferably at night ."

I'm also looking for some chaeto or any other macros(nutrient hungry) that wont spread to the display. Please shoot me a Pm if you have some that needs a trim.

Lmao Randall! You'd think she'll be much more upset with you scattering rock and sand all over her living room floor than setting up another tank Good luck with the battle man!

I'll get 2nd in line for the 1" JF Jack-O-Lantern Lepto $10

No problem, here you go... Just take a pop bottle or a large snapple bottle shown here and cut the neck off flip it upside down secure it with a rubber band, poke a bunch of small holes in the bottom for scent flow, bait it with a meaty treat and toss a small rock in to weigh it down and wait.......... Good luck!

I caught mine with a pop bottle trap

Happy birthday Matt!

Here we go again Same situation, this time I took the impeller apart and sanded both shaft and housing. Lasted about 5 min took it apart again and now only moves about a 1/4 inch on startup then stops. Soaking impeller in a cup of 100% vinegar now out of shear desperation.

Wow! That thing was dirty. Looks like i have a different bearing housing than yours, mine is a flat round black disk with 3 tabs to hold it in place. I wish i would have taken pics but was anxious to get it put back together and up and running again. I soaked the whole pump in vinegar for about 2 hrs and by the time i disassembled the pump, the bearing on the impeller spun freely. So far so good, it wasn't looking too good this morning when i first posted mainly because of the tied in frag tray that houses pond baskets for my nems. Having a return go down is one thing, just put a heater in the display and work the problem, but when a frag tank shares the same return pump things can get complicated fast. Time to invest in a spare pump!

Thanks Jeff, this seems to be the case, when i finally got it running again i had to up the speed one notch just to get the same flow. I guess i'll soon find out.

My return pump just went out and can't get it to restart. DC12000 Anybody have a DC12000 for sale or a loaner? Edit: Okay, so after going back in there sitting down getting ready to pull my heater from the sump the return just all of a sudden kicked back on. Not sure how long it will last though. Strangely enough i was just looking at the flow pattern of coralline growing in my baffles and thinking to myself i should probably pull the return and give it a vinegar bath. It appears the pump won't maintain speed/flow sending my bean animal and skimmer haywire.

Happy birthday Jeff!!

I try to feed mine at least twice a month. Same mixture i feed my fish (Sally's San Francisco bay brand) Mysis,brine thawed and liquid/moisture removed and replaced with Selcon and garlic. I have 10 rainbow bubble tips in a basket thats in a tied in frag tray so they don't have access to much food unless i provide it. Their photo period is much more important as far as i know.

Happy birthday Holly!!

Welcome Swoop, if you have a Photobucket account posting pics is a lot easier. Here is a link to a little more help on that. http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/38922-quick-dirty-tutorial-on-posting-photos/

This^ as far as I know, I've tried the splitter thing and did not get an increase.

I would be interested in this meteor shower

Open the gate on the open channel to fully open and adjust the water level to your open channel using the gate valve on your full siphon. You only want a trickle in the open channel. The drains (open channel and full siphon) must terminate 1'' below the waterline in the sump to purge all the air in the full siphon pipe and stabilize.

I'm interested in the Meteor shower cyphastrea (10$)

Sold! Thanks Mike, nice meeting you.

No problem I'm sure there will be some time as I'm still mixing most of the water for removing the rock.

Almost forgot a pic! Many many shots later this was the best i got

You're 1st in line Mike, need rehomed asap though I'm going to have to pull all the rock within a day or so and i'm trying to avoid any sump time for him.

Planning on pulling all my rock and rescaping my tank and would be the perfect time to catch him/her. Been with me for about 3 years eats like a pig but has decided he doesn't like his clown tank mates. $45

Sorry to hear, yeah it's really frustrating, i took a razor blade to a toothbrush and cut the bristles down by half to make it a stiffer scrubber and spent over 2hrs on that piece of tonga just for it to regrow stronger in a couple weeks. Yes, i have some chaeto in there but it's outcompeted