ChrisQ

Yeah, i figured it was a typo, it also reminded me of how many times people have asked me if i wanted fries with my salt

Cool project! 2.024??

Very cool indeed! It's like a Venues zooplankton trap! What a world!

This is the closest thing i could find using google image search on your photos. Funny, as i was reading somebody else also said the look like gummy bears from a certain angle. http://www.davidrafalovichphotography.com/orange-gumdrop/

Oh man! Sorry to hear this. Now i don't know what to do. I just finished up making 40g last night for the water change, bought new carbon and was getting ready to start siphoning. I was going to dose flatworm exit tonight.

Here's a couple quick videos to help show what's been mentioned so far.

I use this stuff when i can. Other cyanoacrylate gel glues you can find at Lowes or Home depot will also work. Non gel won't work. Something i'm always still trying to master, try and get a "glob" of gel on the base of your frag and kinda dab it where you're trying to put it, the dabbing will allow more contact with the water helping harden the glue. A toothpick also comes in handy for this. Hope this helps.

Hey Salty, sorry to hear it's not going so good Do you have a lot of tiny "purplish pill shaped" things on your rocks? Not moving. Before or after treatment?

Here you go Part one: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1310585 Part two: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1541946&highlight=bean+animal Bean's original page: http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx All are outdated and obsolete with the exception of part two. Not very many people have the time or patience to find all the different ways to plumb a "Bean animal" drain system as there are many variations. Brian's right, lots of ways to skin a cat, but ignoring or removing key components and the system is not a "Bean" anymore and will not run as the system was designed. I did my absolute best to explain it from how i understand it and how it was explained to me from Bean and a gentleman named "Uncleof6" this was after years of revisions they made to the design. Uncleof6 seems to still be maintaining the thread and if i remember correctly he is a waste water plant engineer and really seems to have a firm understanding of what the original designer was going for. The reasons why a rigid airline is used or why elbows are used in shallow boxes as opposed to a standpipe or no standpipe at all used as the full siphon are all explained in detail in the thread. But with that many questions need to be asked... How big is your overflow box? What is the diameter of your piping? How many GPH turnover are you aiming at? The best advice i could offer you now (OP) is once you have some water flowing if you run into any trouble, take some pics and a quick video of start up/shut down and post it in Part two: If Bean doesn't answer you Uncleof6 will. I still have the "before and after" videos of my setup after talking with them if you would like to also review them. The real fun starts when you start testing the "opps! power just went out!" We'll save those trial and error stories for another day. I'm by no mean a pro at this setup or trying to discourage you, just want to try and help you minimize any floods and avoid having to read 2k pages!

I just had a real DUH! moment! Looking at the pic again i now understand instantly what Spectra was referring to, yes, the gate valve appears to be placed on the wrong drain. The gate valve needs to be on the full siphon drain. In the pic it's on the straight vertical stand pipe. (E-Drain) Take a look at the pic that i posted up top, It goes open channel===>E-Drain===>Full siphon. The order doesn't matter. The only valve needed is the one on the full siphon. The height of the open channel "U" from the top of the weir will determine just how quiet the system will be. Once the system is dialed in, the running water level inside the overflow box will also be determined by the height of the open channel "U" inside the overflow box. The less distance the water has to drop from the weir to the running water level inside the box the more quiet the system will be. This is another reason most people choose to place the open channel and full siphon at different heights. I can't seem to find the diagram i was looking for to help describe what i'm talking about but this should do... Ignore everything except for the placement of the open channel relative to the bottom of the teeth in the weir. Once the return pump speed and gate valve are dialed in your running water level should terminate just as the the excess flow from the full siphon is cresting over the "T" in the open channel. A non- adjustable pump (DC) along with a ball valve make this incredibly hard to dial in. One of two things may happen in that case.. 1.) Can't maintain enough flow to reach the open channel because of limitations on the ball valve adjustments and return pump. 2.) Overflow the open channel forcing the open channel to trigger a full siphon emptying the box. Both result in a unstable system. You already are running a gate valve so no worries there, you just need to get the pipe placement straightened out. I guess what i'm getting at is.. This can't happen the way you currently have it set up. Also, Your overflow box doesn't seem nearly large enough to run a straight pipe as your full siphon (If that's what you were going for)because it will have a tendency to create a vortex being that shallow from the surface. This problem was solved with using elbows and t's in shallow boxes I'm not sure what size plumbing you have but it might be an issue. Sorry for my rambling.. Now let's get some pipe switched around and get some saltwater flowin! Can't wait to see it run and the new water change valves!

Killed my Springeri Damsel couple nights ago.... Murphy's law loves me! I can personally post at least 3 pages of ridiculous things that have happened within the last few months. Had the RW-20 shut down for feeding and before i flipped the switch on the Dj bar i always check/clear powerheads so i lightly smacked the magnet a few times in the attempt to chase him out if he was indeed in there, i saw nothing so i flipped the switch, and wouldn't you know it after a thumping sound he shot out of there. From now on, only after i run though my powerhead gently with a bamboo skewer will i turn them back on. Or until i have a accurate fin count of my inhabitants. Still, i'm pretty sour and a bit angry on the situation. It's only a Damsel, i know, but it might as well be a amazing Regal in my eyes. I got this fish from Rudy and as far as i'm aware of he normally doesn't sell fish and this fish is not exactly one you see in your LFS everyday. Always check and double check a shut down powerhead, gobies,blennies and firefish among other small fish seem to find them irresistible.

Leave him be as much as possible, especially if he is attempting a foot hold. One thing to firmly understand is nems have a mind of their own so to speak and the ability to move around to suit their needs. Very different than corals that have a skeletal structure that depend on you to place them in the right location to suit their lighting and flow needs along with being able to capture food. The stuff you see being ejected from the mouth is commonly seen with feeding nems as they don't require much feeding, they are mostly reliant on photosynthesis. They will take in meaty foods but then sometimes eject 80%? of it.

You guys are really making me want to bring out the Mr. Miyagi hidden somewhere in me. Maybe i'll be better at that than maintaining and keeping a reef stable I've always wanted a nice backyard pond like you guys have created. It's inspiring And Racoons? Haha! I have a crazy protective Manx, bring it on Raccoons! No but really, the small electric fence seems like it would work great as i don't actually promote a Racoon Vs. Manx fight club over here, i go as far as not let him outside until around 10:30-11:00am because of this. I think in my case if i ever decided to take the plunge and try and create one for myself, my main issue, more than likely won't be Racoons but the fact that my Manx loves to bring me his prey "and show it off to me" before he is done with it. Look Dad! as i drop a half dead field mouse on your floor to scurry across your floor running for his life, he does the same thing with Garter snakes all wrapped around his face. So i wouldn't exactly be surprised if he brought me in one of my beloved Koi unfortunately.

Here's a google pic of one that appears proper. Notice the rigid airline attached to the emergency drain, this should be the only hole allowing air into the system. Once the water level reaches the bottom of that rigid air line, the open channel turns into a full siphon after a few secs. emptying the overflow box in a blink of an eye. This is how i understand it anyway and how i have mine setup.

Ok Now i'm confused..... You are referring to the U's inside the overflow box right? Your main drain IS the full siphon and should have no air and no holes and terminate no more than 1.5'' below the running waterline. The "open channel" is the drain that allows air and should be placed a couple inches above the full siphon. The open channel should only be a trickle and is only meant to keep the system stable and in check "self adjusting" as well as another fail safe. The rigid airline coming from the open channel's only purpose is to not only allow the 50/50 air/water ratio in the pipe but to also activate the open channel's full siphon capability in the event the main drain and open channel is clogged by a snail or what not and impeding flow. The emergency is just there incase both full siphon and open channel fail for some crazy reason and is bone dry 99.9% of the time. I'm still trying to figure out why his emergency drain is so much higher than the top of the overflow box.

What salt mix are you using?

Hi Jack, Here you go http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/36667-quantum-par-meter-muli-test-meter-booking-thread/

Brian67 and spectra both do top notch work

LOL! i messed up my edit

IME Shriveling up and not inflating, gaping mouth (sometimes looks to be folding inside out) and ultimately near the end appearing to be melting away (losing tissue and/or dropping tentacles) at that point remove from tank ASAP In the long run you may run into problems keeping nems happy with your current lighting setup, that seems to be the consensus anyway. But i myself have never used your setup before. Good luck, i hope he settles in soon for ya!

I run a 180i and i've always been very happy with the decision. When i asked the same question when i too was also on the fence about which skimmer would be best, i think the best advice i got was to choose a skimmer that not only fits your bioload and footprint but more importantly might be considered "future proof" now, of course nothing in our hobby is "future proof" but the point would be to choose a skimmer that has the ability to be fully disassembled for thorough cleaning and also sports a pump that has replacement parts at the ready at a moment's notice that are not expected to be discontinued any time soon. Not to mention if someone broke into my home and my .45 jammed (which it won't) the first thing i'm grabbing is that 180i

Thanks Bob! Email received.

Pics not working, says "You do not have permission to view this attachment." Good luck on the new arrival!

Sweet setup and price! GLWS Bonus for me! The first time i've got to see "Nani" my old Koran angel! I won't lie, i'm very surprised to see her playing nice with another angel. Very cool! At Least it looks like her anyway

I'm interested in the Lyertail anthias if its a female and still avail.