Exodus

I don't really want to let go of my standard refractometer but if you need to borrow one for a bit to get things up and running your more than welcome to it.

As the title states looking for one of those single bulb 48" fluorescent fixtures used on a freshwater tank for nothing more than lighting it. The simple cheap plastic ones with fake wood grain don't care it will be sitting under a hood, let me know what you want to get rid of! Thanks!

I do know Critter cabanna in Wilsonville Carried it, but they have since shut down there Saltwater section, but may still have some left in stock, you can always call.

I like having the option of Modules supporting several faucets of the hobby, allowing individuals to cater their System to their own personal concerns. Many people think conductivity is a waste, whereas I have a smaller tank and had an issue many years ago so I find peace of mind in something others might find pointless. As you mentioned the trident, I personally dont find it cost effective for my needs, though I see how that can be an excellent tool to avoid disastrous Alk swings, and just another tool in the arsenal of reef tank disaster prevention and redundancy. Though I agree some people can get a little crazy to the extent they are relying to heavily on the controller when we all could spend a little more time checking, testing, and maintaining our tanks Glad to see your Apex worked for you, prior to fusion years ago we didn't have that capability out of the box for alerting, rather we signed up an account at some online service that would ping our apex every so often, and when there was no reply the assumption power was out and the online service would shoot an email

Just saw this on Reef Builders, apparently there is No ban https://reefbuilders.com/2018/05/04/there-is-no-ban-on-indonesian-corals/

My advice would be Patience & Stability are the keys to success, Never let anyone tell you your doing it wrong, everyone paves their own way to success. Research "Everything" before purchasing, and whatever you do don't get caught up in the "Marketing Frenzy" that shrouds the hobby, People have been sustaining gorgeous successful reef tanks long before many of the big companies today have been around. No single product will bring you success, but rather good husbandry. Good Luck.

Yeah I vaguely remember you criticizing the purchase of Apex systems Glad to see you have come to the dark side

1st, your talking 50ppm difference is all, are you doubling up on tests or maybe try not dosing and keep testing for a 4 or 5 days in a row to ensure its not within the margin of error of a hobby grade test kit. If this truly is an issue I would spend some time studying, to understand magnesium I think its relative to understand its relationship with Calcium & Alkalinity. Randy Holmes-Farley writes an outstanding article here He also followed up with an article on solving the problems with imbalances here, I would check that and see if your Issue lies in Zone 2

If the peppermint is attracted to eating coral flesh its a sign that particular coral is dying. I have never had any of the numerous peppermints I have had over the years go after any sort of coral unless it was on its way out anyways. In one occasion with an expensive brain coral I wanted to nurse back to health after a stylo did a number on it, i returned the peppermints back to the store until tissue growth was restored, then reintroduced new ones. You might want to keep an eye on the Duncans. I have a large colony and as the colony expands they cover up the heads below them eventually killing them off, Robert described this too me as a 1st world problem

your not going to get it to stay on 12mm, you will have to upgrade to MP40

I run 2 MP10's on 10mm glass, the hold is noticeably weaker due to thickness, but they do in fact hold and work. Just have to be a bit more cautious around them as it doesn't take much force to knock them off the side.

buying a chiller is costly while effective, your spending a bunch more on the device and the electricity for only the benefit of the Fish. You may want to consider picking up a portable AC unit instead as not only will it cost about the same, both you and the fish can benefit from it.

Which means your using the Standard USB Type A, and it's "Passive" which makes up the most of what people have laying around. The concern though if you don't know what your looking at and happen to have a longer USB cable like what may be needed to connect his EB8's your taking a chance that there may be an amplifier on it. In that case you can burn out a module and void your warranty, as Neptune explicitly states not to use them.

No a regular USB cord will not work! Neptune uses what they call an Aquabus, it's there fancy name for a "Type A" USB Cable More Specifically A "Male to Male" connection, as most USB cords follow consistent color code, look for white on both ends, but that might not always neccisarily be the case so just ensure you know what your buying. You can mount an EB8 under the cabinet of the other tank, plug it in and run a Type A/Aquabus USB/Cable to the other EB8, module or Brain on the Apex.

Alk looks Fine, Cal looks Fine, Make sure to test the Mag just to ensure everything is in proper balance. 11 is higher than the typically recommended range but as long as Cal & Mag are within range and things are holding stable you should have no issues. In fact Dana Riddle suggests in his studies that a higher Alk = Faster Growing Corals, Something Ryan & the BRS team decided to follow through with as of recently with an Investigates Series most likely due to Dana's '17 Macna Presentation. I would be more concerned if you were planning on lowering that number, how exactly you intended on doing that in a 20 Gallon slowly without causing a massive Alk Swing.

put me down for 1 GB Blood Drop & 1 GB Maul Acan Enchanita

It can in fact be common if you used to much GFO and stripped a ton of P04 from the water column to quickly. See this post here, they describe it in detail.

Good idea, never had thought of that, does it work well?

As per my earlier post, I had came to the same conclusion. If you choose to keep some sand, Cut it down to a 1/2" and be sure to vacuum it weekly and you should be fine

I hear Rudy has some solid connections in the reefing world, I think it would only make sense to attempt a group buy, that is if he is on board and all.

Talk to Brett @ Paradise Corals In Hillsboro, I know he has most of those if not all.

Special Thanks to Scott for missing most of the meeting to keep burgers and dogs on the grill for everyone to eat!

intriguing, so your thinking the flow was a factor in the cheato melting? I thought extra flow in the refuge to get it to tumble for light to be distributed evenly was considered the best way to get it to grow. I know if there is insufficient lighting the cheato turns a much darker green, gets brittle and breaks apart.

You know I spent 6 years with AIO tanks and my best advice in keeping things running smoothly is keep with a weekly maintenance schedule religiously, use very little or no sand and be sure to vacuum it. Look into InTank media baskets, change the media regularly as needed, Always Always double check your salinity of your mix and the tank twice before doing the water change, and if you get to a point where you think you may need to dose, in that small of a tank Kalk is just a cheaper easier solution, Expanding on that an Auto Top Off system should be a priority