Exodus

Welcome Back Jason, Haven't seen you in ages...

The Primes will be all you need, but in reality it doesn't hurt to use the Hydra's instead as they can be dialed way down, and if your lighting needs demand more in the future with SPS, you have the option already available to you without having to buy new fixtures.

Just a suggestion before asking someone to take and watch your livestock, you might want to consider buying or borrowing a tank from someone that can sit at your place making it easier to move the water and equipment from that tank over for a much easier transition opposed to trying to bag and bucket everything and move it to another location and re acclimate it again.

I don't think its a matter of "Not" liking the light but having more than sufficient light. I have several "High End" Zoas myself and what I have noticed with the majority is they are all extremely small. Though if some aren't getting enough light, they tend to extend and their diameter seems to increase, while others under direct light stay as small as I have them. It's just a thought, I'm not positive but that would be my 1st impression.

Well being Rastas, they are extremely temperamental to begin with, but my guess is it has everything to do with the intensity of your lighting. Move them to a shaded area and see if they begin to extend and widen up a bit.

Up for Sale is a 48" Coralife T5 Lunar Fixture, 4X54W 2 Channels & 4 X Lunar Bulbs. The Unit comes fully Intact with All Pieces and works great, great condition and well built. $80 Note the 24" is whats Shown in the Picture, the 48" has 2 more Lunar Bulbs.

Great Idea had no clue about that. As it currently is situated you can't see them as they run from the reservoir behind the entertainment center, then behind the subwoofer 7 Lamp and when it goes around the wall it follows under a long window covered by the curtains to behind the tank, the only time you really see them is when the curtains happen to be open, but I have them running straight with typical mounts along the wall. In the future I will keep that in mind that these exist.

2nd that! Its the exact reason I went with an AVAST ATO this time around as my reservoir is on the other-side of the room. I ran the RO Tubing along the baseof the wall with the ethernet cable. Dan's suggestion of 2 aqualifters in Series would also work as well.

That sucks!!! 😞 Lucky this didn't happen while the tank was already up and running. This is a good example of why you might want to consider having a cheap one laying around just in case of an event like this to have another part on hand. I'm sure if you put up a post someone on the forums has an extra one laying around that can get you through for 5 days.

Bagging Purigen works great, I wouldn't be too worried about adding to much or little, you can occasionally inspect it to see how well its doing. Just keep in mind when it comes to what kind of Mesh bag you use, most lightweight materials don't survive after the 24 hour Bleach Recharge.

looks like the schedule has been put up mostly filled in http://macnaconference.org/2018/schedule/

I just need 1 tube is all and was hoping someone had one of these laying around in their garage they wanted to get rid of :) If I end up having to spend money I will probably just go with a cheap LED one.

Still in need of a great fixture for growing plastic plants, if you have one laying around

Not opening for 2 Weeks is a bit different then retracting for a day or two, its pissed off about something, anything with sweeper tentacles? or possibly anything that might be trying to chew on it?

Sorry for the late reply I slipped off to bed early last night. So I used the $100 value for that specific purpose to cover all Hobby grade Aquarium heaters that are in a glass or Titanium or Plastic tube that slips in the Aquarium for the purpose of keeping the temperature suitable for fish. Regardless if you are using Cobalt, Fluval, eheim, Marineland, Aqueon etc. They all use cheap Chinese parts that literately cost pennies to produce. This is why regardless of brand go look up reviews and you will find every brand suffering issues such as getting stuck, stray voltage, exploding, just stop working, not keeping the correct temperature etc. It's simply the nature of the beast. I personally have owned several brands of heaters over the years and all have suffered one of those fates within time, some lasted longer than others. So then what are people using in place with more dependability is what I'm guessing is your next question? You can look up Titanium Heat Exchange or PEX Loop for a couple examples, but keep in mind these systems are usually used on much larger aquariums with a starting price in the $1000 ballpark. So without having to dump a bunch of money, work, and time on heating systems like that it's easier to just take our chances on readily available heaters made specifically for our tanks, and in many cases I know several people who have climate controlled houses that don't bother with a heater at all and just let it fluctuate a bit. I personally have never liked the risk associated with Aquarium heaters so I used to use 2 under powered heaters that way when one failed or got stuck I had a somewhat of a backup without total disaster but that doesn't cover every issue but offers some sort of Insurance. Controllers can be viewed in a similar fashion, while it wont prevent every disaster possible they certainly do limit them, and knowing these heaters can go on the fritz at anytime I didn't mind paying for the extra insurance, and I want to make it clear that APex isn't the only, there are several options available out there, and spending a $100 or a bit more is far cheaper than replacing a tank full of corals.

Glad you found a brand of heater you like, just keep in mind every heater on the market below $100 made for the hobby are essentially crap made with cheap components. It's not whether they are going to fail, but "When" will they fail. I would seriously consider getting yourself some sort of Heater controller to limit if not eliminate the potential consequences. I bought my 1st Apex for the fact of Heater control, but they have much cheaper options available that are just as good.

Just curious, was this heater connected to any sort of controller like and Apex or JBJ Temp controller?

It only took flooding the laundry room twice for me to install float valves and an auto shut off on my RODI.

I used a ruler and a piece of printer paper, Clearly drafted all dimensions, scanned it and emailed it and some cases just sent picture messages

Its actually made from Acrylic cut on a CNC, an acquaintance of mine took my blueprints and cut it, then glued it. I can send you his information if your wanting

Thanks for the compliments, but my setup was designed specifically for my tank and setup not to mention I'm using an Apex classic opposed to the '16 with EB32, and the bulk of the setup appears to be the DOS & DDR. If looking for inspiring Ideas I would checkout the Neptune Apex Community Forums under the Sub Category of "Mounting/Installation there are some threads with filled with people posting their organized setups.

put in your measurements into the BRS one and test the same on Randy's and see if you get the same results. If i remember correctly when i was implementing the calculators into my Android APP i think i remember thinking BRS stole Randy's and laughing but that has been a couple years.

you can just use BRS's own calculators on their site, It might even be the same.

you can find a good article that explains imbalances and how to correct them here

Yeah no prob man, It's the least I can do. Good thing Ryan has an extra one floating around.