NateDawg

This e are some beautiful frags right there!!

I'll take it off yah hands, I'll shoot you a pm

Yep, what @Vance164 said, the volume mentioned above is just the largest possible capacity of the container being used, there will be sand and the small pieces of pukani in the picture in there.

Coming soon to Albany Oregon.... another Pico reef jar. This one's pretty small at about .87 gallons total without any substrate or rock! Gunna try a new idea of having the top seal tight at the top so I can put a pump somewhere else in a sump of sorts and have it push water through the system, instead of an overflow. Lighting will be from a diy light that I built which consists of 8 spectrums including 415n, 430n, 440n, 470n, 500n, 650n, 5k white, and 20k white. The livestock for this one will be high end "designer" zoas and palythoa and maybe a really nice sps centerpiece. The for sure livestock so far will be: - hallucination paly - utter chaos paly - rainbow incinerator zoa - Darth maul zoa - pink diamond zoa - and more.. I'll be up for suggestions if anyone has a nice zoa or paly to add.

I'm in!

Got the snapshot ordered yesterday. Do we just wait for a a return envelope to be shipped to us? And should we wait to obtain a sterile culture till we have the envelope to ship everything in? @EMeyer

If there is still an alternate spot open, I'd love to be in on that!

If you look at the coral from the side, you will see on the branch what looks like a line where there is a color difference, usually from lightish white to darker. Cut the branch a couple centimeters below that line (away from the head) with a diamond encrusted saw (if you have one) otherwise, you can use bone cutters or something similar that will make a decent cut without crushing the skeleton. You can then go an extra step and do quick iodine dip to help them with infection prevention. (Not really necessary, but helpful, with this type of coral unless you happen to damage the flesh of the coral then it is pretty much a necessary) Glue them to frag plugs, and your good to GO! Branching euphyllia is a really easy beginner propagation coral so you shouldn't have to many issues. If you still need some more help, shoot me a message and I'll send you some pics of where to cut. Happy fragging!

Added a couple to the list

Been working great! I'm using it primarily to feed my squamosa clam.

To my knowledge any in the Phymanthus can breed with each other, you could end up getting some really cool morphs that way!

There are 11 distinct species of rock flower anemones; Phymanthus crucifer (Red Beaded Anemone) P. buitendijki P. coeruleus P. laevis P. loligo P. muscosus P. pinnulatum P. pulcher P. rhizophorae P. sansibaricus P. strandesi Those to me look like P. Buitendijki because of the feathery tentacles and green coloration, though I've never seen one with such rich green, usually it's just the face that's green. Just my guess though.

I'd be up for trying to fix it or repurpose the parts. I'll pm you

I'm looking for a couple frags, - asd rainbow millepora - tnt anacropora - sunset millepora - tyree pink lemonade -yellow tort Not nessesarily looking for lineage pieces, just looking for the coloration. Let me know if anybody has any of these, thanks for looking!

No problem!

Nope, no internal pump, I know there's been times when my nutrient levels have been high and the calcium buildup has been a little brown in color, but it's definitely not rust. Maybe others were mistaking that for rust possibly? But I've been looking through this thing all over and I can't see any possible place for rust to come from.

Here are a couple pictures of the inside, I've never seen rust in it before, and from what I can see, the only material the water touches are the plastic housing and the quartz tube that encapsulates the uv bulb. And neither of those can rust, so I'm not sure where rust would come from. I know I get calcium build up that has to be cleaned occasionally though.

I've only ever used a coralife 3x uv sterilizer and haven't noticed any issues and have seen a decrease in water column bacteria when observed under a microscope. They are about $100 New and are rated for up to 125 gallons. A couple things with any uv sterilizer is one, you want a very slow water moment through them in order to work, like only a couple gallons a minute so the microorganisms have as much contact time as possible. And second, uv sterilizers (at least consumer ones) don't actually generally kill the bacteria, virus, or algae. (Despite what alot of articles say) Uv light breaks the bonds between the DNA strands inside the microorganism, rendering it unable to reproduce and cause an outbreak. To my knowledge at least.

I would definitely agree with getting rid of the clamp, surgical stainless is really the only type of "stainless" steel you want in a tank, and that's only if you have too. I'm sure that hose clamp is zinc and chromium based, both of those are as toxic to marine life as copper is, being that they have similar characteristics with each other. One thing I noticed was that I don't see what your total water volume is. Unless I'm just missing that... but if you have 400 gallons total, a small clamp won't do anything really, but if you only have 50, the concentration of heavy metals will be increased, causing more of an issue. I keep my nitrates at 15+ and grow sticks like crazy! I do 5 gallon changes every other week and when I did notice some sps getting poor health, I got an ati water test done, which showed I had high zinc and low bromine, did I 10 gallon water change (on a 45 gallon) and everything went back to normal after a week. Basically, I would for sure get rid of the clamp. If you can spend some money on it, get a lab water test done, (that's what helped me figure out my issue) and check your source water as well, what are you using for your source water?

This is a fantastic idea! Definitely following!

I am definitely excited for this and definitely hope that I can get on that list for sure!!

Sad day, I was looking forward to buying one of those frags too.

I emailed a few places that have had them in the past, but none of them had any. I almost thought @Paratore had some. Or at least something very similar.

You could maybe cut it, let it heal and take it to an lfs for some store credit if no one on here wants it.

The little tanish colored box next to the ic chip, where the damage was done, looks to be a capacitor (kinda hard to tell without seeing the original color/numbering), either the component failed or someing further down the line caused a voltage spike that was more than the capacitor was rated for/could handle.