SuncrestReef

So what is the process each member should follow to see if their membership is current, or if they are overdue to subscribe?

Sorry for your loss. I'm glad I keep a mesh cover on my tank. Last week I heard a big splash and it was one of my fish trying to jump but the lid kept it inside. No idea why they decide to jump, but glad the lid prevented it.

Good looking setup, and nice rock work! Any equipment under the stand, or is it truly an "all in one"?

Stay tuned for CSI: Reef Tank

Someone needs to invent RFID locator tags for fish so we can scan a tank or room to find them in these situations. 😥

I was worried last year when my kole tang disappeared, but it magically appeared a couple days later. Keeping my fingers crossed for you...

Thanks to @Mandinga for the new fish!

Wow, one hour pumping citric acid and it’s sparkly clean again!

Flushing it with citric acid seems to be working well so far. This is after only 5 minutes:

PM sent.

Well, I hate to take you up on that offer since @pdxmonkeyboy challenged my manhood for not owning an air compressor (though I did own a large compressor in the past when I had a full 2-car-garage-sized woodshop with several air powered tools), but if you don't mind I'd appreciate it. 🤓

I bought that one too when I first started up my tank. I used dry Pukani rock which is known to leach phosphates, so I used the 713 LR to measure PO4 as the rock was curing. Using GFO I was able to get PO4 down low enough that I could start measuring it with the ULR. Not sure what your excuse was. 🤣

I use the Hanna ULR HI-736 and it's worked great for me. My typical readings range from 3 - 20, which calculates to 0.01 ppm to 0.06 ppm.

It's not completely clogged; it just has a lot of buildup inside the tube walls. Water still flows through, just not at the same rate as the drain water so it throws off the auto water change volumes, which then messes with salinity as the ATO makes up the difference.

Pulling a new tube through the conduit will not be possible. I crammed 3 x 1/4" tubes, an Ethernet cable, and an AquaBus cable through 3/4" conduit with 5 curves. The fit was so tight that I had to pull the tubes and cables through each segment of conduit first, then dry fit the conduit segments together later and attach it to the wall. The conduit comes through the wall behind my tank, so there's absolutely no way to get to it. It's too tight to pull a single tube through. If I had used 1" or larger conduit it would be possible. Below are photos from when I set it up, before the tank was in place. I'll try compressed air first, then maybe add a long segment of tubing so I can run a loop with a pump in citric acid. If there's still any buildup left after all that, then I'll probably try the string trimmer line last.

The only problem with this plan is that the ends of the tube are 30 feet apart in different rooms, so a loop isn't an option. A PMUP moves 100 gph, so if I used 5 gallon buckets I'd have to babysit it and swap buckets every 3 minutes. I guess I could use some John Guest couplers and extend the tube to create a loop. Thanks for the suggestion.

I have been doing auto water changes with my DOS and Apex for almost 2 years. Over the past couple of weeks, I've started noticing a steady decline in salinity, so I assumed my DOS heads were wearing out and ready for replacement. But after replacing the heads and running the calibration, I saw the Fill head was only pumping about 75% as much as the Drain head. Closer examination of the tube revealed it's caked on the inside with sediment, similar to the gunk that builds up in my mixing station tank over time. Any ideas on how to clean or flush 30 feet of 1/4" tubing? Replacing it is not an option due to the challenge of getting this tubing along with 2 other tubes, an AquaBus cable, and Ethernet cable through the same 3/4" conduit. My first thought was using string trimmer line with a small brush head attached to shove it through the tube. Any other ideas? It's funny, for all the complaints I hear from people about the Apex salinity probe being worthless, it alerted me about this issue right away!

I'm not certain if this will work for everyone, but here's how I looked up my membership:

Whether it's USB 2.0 or 3.0 won't make any difference and both will work with the Apex. As long as it has the USB male connector on each end. You can tell if it has a repeater if it has a large block on the end of the cable or in the middle of the cable:

This is incorrect. My entire Apex environment is running on standard USB 2.0 cables, ranging from 1 foot to 30 feet in length. The reason USB FireWire says they're built specifically for Apex is because they don't have any repeaters built into the cable. For USB 2.0 devices running on 5v to work beyond 5 meters (16'5") you need a repeater. Since the Apex is sending 12v through the cable, it can be up to 200 feet long without a repeater.

Are you asking about a cable? If so, AquaBus cables are USB cables. The difference between AquaBus and USB is not the cable, it's the devices you plug them into. The Apex and all Apex modules run on 12v. Computers, hard drives, and any other USB device runs on 5v. That's the reason they tell you to never plug a USB device into an Apex AquaBus port, because the 12v will fry the USB device. But the cables themselves are interchangable, as long as the cable does not have a USB "repeater" built in which you may sometimes find on really long cables to boost the signal.

I’m running out of room in my tank...

It sounds like the problem was that auto renewals were controlled in two places that were not linked. So you think you cancelled the renewal on PNWMAS, but PayPal didn't get that notification and renewed anyway. Pandora doesn't have multiple places you need to cancel a renewal.

Wow, sounds like a good deal. Someone should scoop this up quickly.