xmas_one

Your may need a new impeller as well if it was run for any length of time with that busted shaft. The ID of the impeller will get all chewed up and it won't spin smoothly.

I have a 8x24w Powermodule if you are interested. Also, if you could get your hands on a D120 or other "chinese black box", that should keep a tank that size doing fine until you get your normal lights back. Your might be wise to get a PAR meter and at least attempt to to match lighting intensity when you make the swap.

I would be more worried about the PVC that has jb weld on it. Depending on the location, I would not trust jb weld to seal PVC, especially if you have nice flooring in your house.

Welcome to PNWMAS, this is one of the finest clubs around. Super friendly, knowledgeable, and generous folks here.

Also, a needle valve on the effluent will clog up pretty fast. IMO, the best choice for metering CaRx effluent is a peristaltic pump.

Brass is a no go on a reef. Especially on a calcium reactor with depressed pH.

Is this the drain to the sump? If you're dead set on using a hard line (pvc pipe) for your drain, you can place a union on it to allow for removal of the sump. I usually put a barbed fitting on mine and then run a soft (clear or black vinyl tubing) drain line to the sump.

That's a CFL pentagon, they came in several sizes: https://www.ageofaquariums.biz/product/corner-pentagon-acrylic-aquarium/

I agree, 9/10 that's the first question in the thread.

What's for sale Tom?

Do you currently have your live rock in saltwater with a pump running in it? The rock looks dried out in the photo you posted.

Looks like a 120g, are the dimensions 4x2x2'?

Nice retro! Isn't Ocean Revive a sponsor of the club? Would be awesome if we could work out a deal for supporting members.

If the razor blade or credit card doesn't work, you might try squirting some water under it if you can get under it with a needle/syringe. I worked with telescope optics years ago and compressed air or the syringe trick was a good way to separate glass that got stuck to a polishing lap or another piece of glass apart.

I don't know about a turf scrubber, but I grew chaeto like crazy with just a 23w CFL in a clamp on socket/reflector from HD or Lowes.

Did you use water?

Dimensions of sump and location?

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/for/6075876316.html

I have an old style (no leds) 8x24w Powermodule I could let go for the right price. Pm me for pics if you are interested.

If possible, drill starting from the inside. This way if you do get a tiny clamshell in the glass at the end of the hole it will be on the nut side instead of the gasket side.

Congrats Mr. B. I'm going to have to come by next time I make it up North.

Don't drill that tank! 55g is a weird tank in that it is one of the only standard sized tanks that has tempered glass on all 5 panels. Edit: Best to test it before you drill:

Technically there is no such thing as a PAR meter. PAR refers to the portions of the electromagnetic spectrum of light that plants and algae use for photosynthesis. These meters have filters over the sensor that let the wavelengths of light that plants and algae use for photosynthesis pass through and be read by the sensor. PPFD is referring to the number of photons hitting a square meter per second. These meters are measuring PPFD but have a PAR filter in front of the sensor that is rejecting portions of the electromagnetic spectrum that plants and algae do not use for photosynthesis. A more accurate name for the meter would be: PAR filtered PPFD meter

I've heard of multiple tanks getting wiped out due to that very product. I do have the nano algae cleaner, best practice with either of these products is do not store them in the tank. Use them and then put them away.

That's a great shot nanoreefer, when I saw it I knew I had no chance. Can you share with us your setup/settings?