Micah

If you can find me the file/design, I'll print it. I think I even have some pink.

Sweet! @CesarTYou sharing the STL or design files for this? Looks solid.

I'm looking for an EB4 or EB8 power bar for Apex. If one or more of the outlets don't work, that's ok. I can probably still use the parts.

I know this isn't apples to apples, but it's kinda close. I run my algae turf scrubber in an overlapping reverse lighting schedule to my main display. The more I read, the more I understand that plant life, even algae, needs a dark period. My daytime schedule is 9:30-9:30, but I run my scrubber lights 6pm to Noon. I've found that the opposing schedule helps reduce the pH swing at night.

40 dollars in tickets. 12 to the Nero 3 and 12 to the IceCap Gyre. I'm coming for you @Emerald525.

"I'm sorry I ame to you group of fish lovers". This isn't a sushi preparation forum.... what did you expect? Your first rodeo must have been a horror show.

@miketoohey I don't want to come across rude at all, but this situation is understandably frustrating from our side (the saltwater aquarist), and I hope it's frustrating on your side as well, since the life of a gorgeous wild animal is at stake. There are some holes here though that make me question this entire post. You bought an eel, and it arrived. You don't have a tank for the one you were supposed to get to live in. So, regardless, you were expecting to keep an eel in a bucket? Can you satisfy my curiosity here? I'm certain that any LFS that isn't Petco or Petsmart will take your eel and either give you store credit or even just hold it for you while you find a home for it. The LFS community is mostly great people with big hearts. I'm confused what the holdup is. <passion intensifies>Are you trying to get money for this eel? Surely the money thing isn't worth staring into a bucket with a dead eel in it. Please don't rob the earth of a creature for something as ridiculous as money. Please treat these animals at least as if they are your pets - because they are actually more than that. If you can't take this fish into an LFS or at least meet somebody half way, then I can only assume this whole post is a scam and should be flagged/removed. If only because locally, a snowflake moray is 20 bucks and scams usually end up being worth your time. You'll never get 60 bucks for this eel, if it exists. Got pictures of this animal/situation? Here's a great guide to setting up a brackish tank, btw: https://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2019/10/starting-a-brackish-tank/

@miketoohey hey, sorry, didn't see your location. I can't make that drive. Hopefully somebody else can. Don't let that gorgeous creature die please.

I can take it and keep it in a temp tank until I can find a home for it. PM me.

I can take it and keep it in a temp tank until I can find a home for it. PM me.

Just yank the power. There's no shutdown routine. It's all solid state, should be fine. The things carrying a lot of power are the relays and they wont mind.

Super interested to see how this comes out. I've been told cerium oxide and a buffer, but that's probably what's in the compound you got.

Also, I'd like to correct myself with my timings. 14 days Prazi, 30 days copper/metro/kana/furan-2. Not sure why I said 7 days... Derp moment. I linked you to the humble.fish site, I highly encourage everybody to read it and become acquainted with the lifecycle of these pathogens/parasites. Also, change the batteries in your hanna copper checker OFTEN. It will give you incorrect readings when lowish. Ask me how I know.... 🤦‍♂️

PM incoming

I can empathize there. My last foray into this was punctuated by sadness, misinformation, and unfortunately my emotions getting the best of me. This time, I got quality stuff, spent quality time and stocking quality life. Excited to see your journey. This reminds me that I had a tank build thread I may need to spend a month updating.

... .waits for the "Ya know, on second though, I'll just risk it." post.

Here's the proven setup I'm using: 20gallon aqueon tank all-glass aqueon lid with almost NO gaps cheap light on timer (12 on/12 off) hang on back filter with NO MEDIA 100w heater air stone-->airline-->air pump for extra oxygenation Random PVC elbows/tees/etc for fish "habitat" and hiding areas Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge (I use a new one every set of fish) Hanna High Range Copper checker. Worth its weight in gold if you're planning to do all of your fish this way. I DO NOT use a biological filter. I do 100% water changes every 3-5 days or when the ammonia badge changes color at all. Carbon WILL remove the medication, do not use it. I wouldn't risk re-using the biological filtration between fish batches. Reduce the amount of area for parasites/etc to hide/become saturated in. Medication will also bind to the media, which reduces the effective medication in the water column. When I get a new fish, I sometimes put a fresh batch of water in the tank and immediately put the fish in. There's no reason to wait if you're not using biological filtration. There IS another method of doing this with biological filtration, and http://humble.fish explains that in great detail. I prefer to do the 100% water change every 3-5 days because it combines both medication and tank transfer method. Reducing the risk of tank contamination. For instance, lets say the underside of the glass lid gets splashed here and there and there's a parasite tomont in that drop of water... then, you add copper/metro/etc and go through a full 14+ days.. Depending on what point in the lifecycle that drop of water falls into the tank, it can re-infect the tank, fish, etc. My cleaning process (performed in driveway/garage/utility sink) every 3-5 days is: Catch fish, put them in 5-gallon bucket with a lid and a bubbler (there's still medication in the water, so you want to make sure there's a healthy supply of oxygen) Empty the 20gallon tank... Put as many of the water exposed things in the tank (pvc parts, hang on back lid, glass lid, heater, air stone, etc etc... Fill with tap water as high as possible. Add a couple cups of regular non-special, unscented bleach. (You can use a full gallon of distilled vinegar instead, but I would let it soak overnight and that's not really feasible with your fish in a bucket. -- NEVER mix vinegar and bleach) Run the hang on back filter with the bleach. Let it run for 30 minutes or so. Empty the tank again, rinse it out really good, fill again with tap water. Let the tank run for another 20 minutes or so. If you're not convinced all of the bleach is gone, add some API water conditioner/chlorine remover and let the tank run with that. (bleach is one of those things that you can't stop smelling, even when it's gone) I always spray the tank out after this just to be safe. Refill with new salt water, let the heater bring it to temp, set up the pvc parts, etc. Add the full mixture of current medications to the tank and let them fully mix into the water. Re-add fish. ** Note: Do not put your ammonia badge in the bleach. It will ruin it. Just give it a good rodi rinse. .... I think I covered most of the bases here....... Here's some recommended viewing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tv7ezuL-gyM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXXPgEygc4M

Please don't hesitate to reach out if you need any help with this process. It's tricky at first until you get into a groove.

Agreed. If you are worried about one post with (Sorry Bill) outdated warnings, imagine how concerned you'll be when you get ONE fish with a horrible disease that infects your whole tank. It's WAY easier to do a couple fish at a time the first time than ALL of your fish at once down the road with a higher risk of losses due to an actual tank wide infection.

Water quality is the biggest thing to take into account with quarantine/hospitalization. Most fish die of bad water quality or shock to the meds. The only fish I've lost in quarantine (with my current method) were either because of fish aggression or jumping. I lost some about 7 years ago to brooklynella in QT, but that was due to inexperience and far fewer internet resources on the matter.

Yes, because the only way to get disease out of your DT later is a 76 day fallow (no fish) period. Regardless of what some people will say, ALL fish carry ALL fish diseases.

You shouldn't dose both copper and Prazi at the same time. They both suck Oxygen out of the water and will suffocate your fish. Your best bet is to run: 1 week PraziPro. 5ml / 20gal, second dose on day 4. (Increase PraziPro slowly for sensitive fish) 100% water change on day 8, slowly introduce copper power up to 2.5ppm or copper safe up to 2.0ppm. Keep the fish at therapeutic levels for 14+ days. During the copper treatment, I also run Metroplex, Kanaplex and Furan-2 (dosed as listed on the packaging). If you want more top knotch information on fish qt/treatment, check out http://humble.fish

I think we were all being sarcastic.

I can't wait until these things can be captive bred!