Bicyclebill

Great info Jeremy. I would agree; the meat and potatoes of the system are the regulator, c02 valve, and effluent valve. Reactor is literally just a container with a pump recirculating water through it. Highly recommend the two stage regulator with Fabco c02 valve.

Funny you mention the dried detritus Bert! I asked about that in the comments section of that article. How, do tell, does one go about measuring and weighing dried detritus?

How about the string holding $700 worth of lights on that post?!?

Welcome back!

Those are your colony prices,? If so, those a crazy good deals!

I got the big milli! What a beautiful coral! Thanks Isaac!

Today, June 7 2015, who out there is still running metal halides?

[language filter] you've got some sweet corals there! I just reloaded with frags today, or I'd be all over that milli and tenius.

Nice score Andy!

+1 on above. If you're sump can't deal with a power outage, a check valve is a short term bandaid to a bigger problem

No worries! If those don't work out for you, I've got a couple Sunlight Supply Blue Wave 250W Magnetic ballasts I'd sell you for $25 a piece. And I've got some 250W SE bulbs to try them out on too.

There is no such animal. Radiums come in 250W and 400W single ended, and 150W double ended.

Always an awesome time hanging out and geeking out on reefs with cool people! Great work by Garrett and his staff, and John, Bert, and Steve for making this happen. Great to talk with Kim and Beth too! Nice to see them back in it.

Wow, what a sweet setup! Very cool tank dimensions.

I would go to their website forums and post it as a question. I know the Digital Aquatics cables are not wired the same as a phone chord. Yes on the Apex cable; with the link cable you only need one cable to your controller. What did you get?

That sucks Jeremy! Another tip I have that has worked for me is to set my rke display to show reactor ph as main display and a quick look at my water flow meter. I don't pay attention to my bubble counter because it's a pain. Still need to check alk to make sure the settings are doing the trick though.

That's way bigger that would be useful. Your bulkhead size is what dictates flow, and that flow rate will determine minimum overflow requirements. If it were me, I'd make it only as deep (front to back) and tall as required to fit bulkhead into and go full width. My glass holes model is about 8"w x 3.25"d x 5.25"h with 1.5" bulkhead and moves around 800 gpm in my 90g. If I bump return flow up much above that, my level stays a little higher and surface skimming doesn't work as well (oils and stuff in surface).

Molokos!

I had an ecoplus 1263. They are loud pumps, and aren't particularly well balanced. I strongly recommend Sicce submersible pumps myself.

I've got a reefkeeper elite with all sorts of add ons. I originally got the lite because it is a bargain. If you can live with only what it offers its a great package. However, with the investment I've made in where I'm at, the apex would have been a lower cost investment. I think the reefkeeper is easier and more intuitive to use than the apex though based on what I've seen and heard. Though if you're familiar with basic programming I guess the apex is easy to figure out.

Great choice Kim! My nuvo 16 started leaking from a bottom seam, which sounds like another common issue with these, and I upgraded to the 20 fusion also. The extra depth front to back is perfect.

Great question!

I'll take the meteor shower. Pm on the way

I use an aqualifter on my nano at work. The water container used to be about 50" lower than top of tank, and that is too far and I'd have it stop working every couple of weeks. I put the container up on a pedestal now, with about 20" difference in height, and it's worked flawless since.

Aqualifter is a unique product in the hobby; nobody else makes anything similar. I had the same problem. I agree that maybe a high speed dosing pump (not BRS 1.1 ml/min) would do the trick on a float switch. How big is your tank?