Oregonic

Those palys contain palytoxin. I believe those green ones are known to contain high amounts of palytoxin. I also had a emerald crab that would occasionally eat the same hollywood stunner chalice occasionally. He was banished to the sump.

Going to have to try it out. Cant have shrimp or nudibranchs because I love my wrasses.

Wow I just watched a video and briefly read about F Aptasia. Does it actually harden around the aptasia once coated?

I would tighten it down and if still leaking try tightening a little more. Use discretion, if you go to tight you could strip the threads or worse break the faucet. Very easy to over tighten with a wrench. I would also remove all the teflon tape first and re wrap it before you try again. Make sure you wrap the correct direction so it doesn’t ball up as you tighten it.

That would be my next thought as well. You may even want to possibly take a little sand paper and lightly sand the bottom edge of the faucet to ensure there are no burrs pushing unevenly against the seal.

Oops see you tried teflon tape already. Did you wrap it the correct direction? If so I would try doubling the gasket. You can most likely rob the one off the aerator and see if it solves the issue.

Rubber seal looks ok, you could double the seal up or wrap the threads with some teflon tape.

Mine sometimes do it while splitting.

Hopefully they recover quickly. Great meme.

Thank you 🙏🏼. I feel very lucky.

The body shop I managed closed the first week of the month for the owners retirement. I landed a job at Progressive Insurance the second week of the month and I start tomorrow. They delayed my start date a few times due to coronavirus and the company switching to 100% digital but tomorrow is the official start date. Normally the first 2 weeks are spent in Ohio or Arizona for training but I will be completing it digitally. They are not allowing employees to go out into the field so I guess my home will be my office for the near future.

Regular super glue is very thin, opt for a gel super glue. I prefer the gel gorilla glue.

🥳 I dont head out to the westside often but I will let you next time I am out that way.

They were one of the first corals I added to my reef 3.5 years ago. They have survived everything from major swings to a tank move. Originally they were in a much lower flow then my tank has now and much lower light as well. They currently are in fairly strong random flow and about 300 par. Throughout all these changes as my reefing skills grew they have survived, but have thrown many fits along the way. When they are happy I know my tank is happy.

My duncans are my indicator coral. They tell me when something is off by not fully extending. If something major was off or changed they take time to reopen all the way. When they are first introduced if coming from an environment with different parameters they may take a few weeks to settle in. With stability they will adapt to their new environment. Once they settle in they should stay open and happy most the time. Since you say they are opening at night they must be healthy, just adapting.

Tuesday the 17th at high noon.

What is the issue with the sealant? Could you post a few pictures?

That looks good for a few days of growth. I had slimy algae for a while on the screen. I actually ended up seeding the screen with some green hair algae by just threading it through the screen. I also pulled the screen out and really really scuffed it up, like to the point I thought I may rip it. I dont think it was scuffed up enough when I first set it up. Once the screen starts to grow green hair algae you will be amazed how quick it will grow.

Would you be interested in a trade? I have a nice torch frag

Lol I think we are always learning from talking with each other.

As long as you have phosphates present, once the ATS takes off Im sure your nitrates will drop fast.

I just made a flap out of a few layers of duct tape and where I folded it over on the bottom I used a wood skewer, ghetto but has worked for a few years. I currently run the lights opposite and for 11 hours. In the past I ran the lights much longer but as the ATS took off and tank matured I have began to run into the issue of lack of nutrients and have had to dial back the photo period. I had always had low phosphates but really high nitrates added the scrubber and it barley grew anything for the first few months and I saw no benefits, started dosing phosphates per a suggestion, it exploded with growth and nitrates dropped very fast.

I “T” mine off my return and use a ball valve to adjust flow. I have found that the best water flow is to adjust the flow as low as possible but to where it just cascades evenly down the mesh. Higher flow seemed to hinder the growth of algae, and lower flow ended up with dry areas where algae would die back. Once you have the flow dialed in you shouldn’t have to adjust it. I did however find that there needs to be a flap that covers the top 1/2 inch or so of exposed screen to keep algae away from blocking the slit in the pipe, helps keep the flow evenly distributed across the entire screen.

Building a hybrid fixture is really easy. Cost me around 50 bucks to put this together. The t5 fixtures were cheap too.

Cut a torch that was getting to big and one of the heads had the side break off. My euphyllia corals always split heads and before the completely split they begin to split again. This makes cutting frags difficult and one of the frags I cut had the side sheer off with some tentacles attached. I cracked a frogspawn once before but it healed up with no issue but this is the first time I actually had a piece break all the way off. Any advice, what are the odds it survives and heals? Also is there a way to promote splitting completely before splitting again? I have attached a pic of the damaged frag and a pic of the remaining portion of the colony that has 7ish partially split heads all still attached with flesh.