Bicyclebill

Sorry if this was already brought up and I missed it. There does not seem to be a way to respond to private messages. I can do it on tapatalk, but on computer version there is no reply button that I can find.

I tried an HDR app for these new pics, and set my kessils to 100% color. I had them set at 60% color previously.

I've got several different types of sps up for sale. A couple good size mini colonies too Appleberry monti: 1 frag, $10 for smaller. Pic of main colony here Green slimer: one piece about 1.5" tall $10. Main colony is huge, so I could cut more if people want some. This was grow out from TECO frag club competition Blue/purple with green polyp sps: this fragging was an accident. This was from madmike's tank. Pricing $5 for 3/4", two 1.5" each $10, one 1.5" bush $15. Parent and frags

Did you buy the Jebao dual controller, or the JBWave Dual controller?

Well actually they only stayed in sync for about ten minutes. Oh well.

I feel like an idiot. I've not been impressed when running my rw pumps in master/slave mode. Then while playing with them tonight, I tried hitting the lock button. Bam! Now they run the sync mode I've been trying to do all along without overlapping each other

I watched a youtube video by Thomas Brown last night talking with DA at Reefapalooza or wherever about this. The big thing I took away from the video was the comment from DA that they brought in all new people to make this happen. Made it sound like old crew was holding them back from getting it done.

Tap plastics scrap bin is full of that stuff, and it's only $1 a pound.

I'm a fan of the sicce pumps. Right up there with eheim imo. The 1.5 would be about perfect for a 30g return. Keep in mind though that you can only return as fast as you can drain, so a big pump is worthless unless you've got a huge overflow.

I've got a hydor slim skim nano sitting in my parts box. Good to maybe 25g, but is made to be in tank about 12" deep

So before I break something trying to pull one of my pumps apart, has anyone already tried it? Is the impeller removable for cleaning? Should I simply soak the whole thing in vinegar and not take anything apart? I've done some searching and there is no clear answers that I can find.

I like it!

I use tapatalk for most of my forum perusing, and this is 100% the same as before. No complaints from me. I'll have to check it out on my laptop later to see what all the hubbub is all about. Thank you Micah for spending your Saturday night/Sunday morning getting this up and running for the club!

So my fancy Clippard solenoid is leaking. What do the rest of you do for solenoids? Do you just by a couple of cheap Milwaukie's and keep one in the closet for safety to replace if and when it dies?

Wow, what a crazy nice collection of chalices and zoas! His jack-o-lantern lepto grows like a weed! Got me a couple pieces :-)

Awesome! I'm doing that tomorrow

[language filter] Jeff, you had a booth at MACNA!?! How cool!

Same old thing that happens to every pump with a magnetic impeller at some time or another. Calcium starts to build up and/or slime and the shaft doesn't spin as easy on the ceramic bearing or loses field strength to make it through slime to get started again. Vinegar soak is the classic fix. My Jebao RW and WP don't seem to come apart though, so I'm not sure what to do other than simply soak them occasionally.

^+1 on what Randy said above. Don't EVER add dry powder to your aquarium. 2-Part is supposed to be mixed into solution. Go by ml since that's likely the only method you've got for measuring anyway. If it were me, I'd simply make up a gallon and then follow the BRS calculator. Either keep the leftover in the closet (which I do since I have a calcium reactor) or keep it going in your 2 part dosing scheme.

We all might want to check our insurance policies. I didn't think insurance covered anything like aquarium failure or damage caused by it.

That stand looks stout as hell. My only concern is the lack of vertical support at front where doors are. But that's maybe a 24" span with 2x6 header and plywood. I call bull**** on their assessment.

Right on!

I used Lamotte for 10 years or so. Switched to Hanna checker and it's about 2.5 dkh lower, and matches cheapo API spot on. Now I just pull out the API every once in a while.

I've got a par38 led with gooseneck collecting dust. OC reef 18k I think. Very nice color with uv, blue, and cool white Cree bulbs

I had the aquamaxx em150 for a while and it worked great. It was a little bulkier than the skimz 161, and I think my skimz has lower amp draw too. I'm not a big believer that a cone is better. Having a tapered neck does the same job while allowing larger volume in reaction chamber.