Lexinverts

Very cool!

You guys are way too organized!

I would ditch the tray. If you want a separate system for frags, use a 40 breeder, or something deep enough for good algae eating fish, like a Foxface, Bristletooth Tang, Blennie, etc... I had a frag tray system too, and I was constantly fighting algae problems. It seems to me that all of that detritus in your tray could be largely responsible for the high nitrates. I recommend that you get the Salifert Nitrate test rather than the API, with is notoriously inaccurate. Good luck!

How many mls of Balling are you dosing for this tank, Jeremy?

Here's 10 days worth of hair algae growth in my algae scrubber. Clean it out, and that is a load of phosphate and nitrate that I've scrubbed from my system! I really like this thing.

Thank you. You'll get coral burn if your nutrients are low, even with your alkalinity at 8.0. You need to have alkalinity closer to 7.3 if you are running low nutrients---I don't recommend it, since you will have less hassle with nutrients around .08 phosphate and 5-10 ppm nitrate.

Mine is chugging right along. I'm starting to see some growth at the edges, like Robert was showing on his frag. It's hard to capture the color of this goni. It looks really purple in the tank, but the pics always come out so pink.

Mine's in my home RSM 250 (66 gallon) display tank. Flow: Mp10 and Maxspect Gyre 130. Lighting: Phillips Luxeon LEDs via Steve's LEDs retrofit kit. Stock skimmer and Santa Monica Filtration Drop 1.4x algae scrubber for nutrient control. One 10% water change weekly. Triton Elementz dosing via a Kamoer 4 channel dosing pump. Phosphate: .09 Nitrate: 4 ppm KH: 8.0 Mg: 1350 Ca 460 My frag is starting out as two polyps.

I've got a decent sized chunk of it. PM me for details.

It looks a bit like the Superman Stag that Jeff has been selling for a while.

Isn't it a sunset millie? Nice frag!

I have one too, in case anyone else wants one.

FAVIAS BABY!

It's just the same concept as macro in a refugium, but hair algae has more surface area than macro so it works in one of these small scrubbers that fits in the back compartment of my All In One system. Another *expensive* option that uses Chaeto rather than hair algae is available here: http://uniquecorals.com/dry-goods/pax-bellum/pax-bellum-arid-n12-macroalgae-based-bio-absorption-filtration-system.html If the cheaper type that I have didn't work so well, I might try something like that. The cheapest solution is a refugium with chaeto and an inexpensive LED light, but I don't have a below tank sump in this system.

Thank you! I started the dosing about a year ago, but things haven't taken off until recently. I had problems with dinos because of phosphate and nitrate leaching from my rock, and was using Red Sea NOPOX (evil stuff) which caused a system crash that derailed everything for about 3 months. I struggled with controlling nutrients without pulling too much out of the water. GFO, Phosguard, Vodka, etc... all lowered my nutrients too much. Finally, I settled on an algae scrubber from Santa Monica Filtration about three months ago: http://www.santa-monica.cc/DROP14-drop-in-upflow-algae-scrubber-with-Green-Grabber-surfaces--14-cubes-feeding-per-day_p_71.html Expensive, but effective at keeping my nutrients at phosphate .05-.08 ppm and nitrate around 4 ppm. Now that I finally have nutrients under control, the corals have been flourishing with the Triton dosing. So, it is actually a combination of the Triton dosing and the scrubber that has led to the excellent growth that I have had over the last two months.

Well, you could stop water changes and then potentially let your nutrients creep up, which ultimately will not help solve the problem. When I am fighting dinos, I keep up my regular maintenance regimen. Kill em' with UV, don't let them build up in any one place in the tank, and keep nutrients constant. Alternatively, if I were having dino issues in an ULNS, then I know that nutrients are not the issue and stopping water changes might make sense if it starves the dinos of some trace element. Some people do observe that dinos seems to come back stronger after a water change.

APRIL 3 TODAY (7.5 weeks later) APRIL 3 TODAY (7.5 weeks later)

I am getting some mad growth and PE from Triton Elementz dosing!

Bert linked to it already, but this is my standard recommendation for beating the suckers. Given that I have beaten it in all three of my tanks, I consider myself and expert. LOL. I've dealt with it several times. For me, no single thing got rid of it. It was a combination of tactics that finally got rid of it. 1) I got a nice TMC UV sterilizer that was rated for a larger tank 2) I made sure my phosphates were no higher than .08 3) Two times per day, I disturbed all surfaces that dino had settled on. Turkey basters or swirling the water with my hands kept it from building up. 4) I increased my flow 5) I added a lot of activated carbon and changed it out every week in order to absorb any dino toxins 6) I reduced my feeding to just frozen mysis and nori to reduce the nutrient input into my system 7) I added a cleaning crew of Tiger Conchs. These guys are the only thing that will eat the stuff. They eat cyano too! After using all of these things in concert, I got rid of it, and have kept it at away. It will kill much of your corals, especially your sps, if you let it build up, so acting quickly is key too. I'm thinking that phosphate could be the culprit for you, if you were slacking on maintenance a bit. Good luck!

Famous last words....

Don't tempt me, Jorge!

LOL. Do you guys send text messages to each other from one side of the room to the other too?

What is that one, Tom? Nice!

The price seems really good too.

I've got a fish trap for you Robert! I can drop it off today.