mister crabs

as long as your temps are the same and the salinity you will be fine! those are the two parameters to be concerned with.

what do you guys use for the mesh? I want to do this to a Maxijet 900 for my cheapo skimmer i picked up at albany aquariums. I just need to find the mesh at a store somewhere as I have the fishing line to tie it on with.

vinegar didnt harldy make a dent in the stuff. I may have to get the muriatic acid.

Never thought of muriatic acid. it wont harm the silicone or anything? thanks

Ok so I am in the process of cleaning the 135 I picked up a couple weeks back. I got all the algae and salt crust off the glass and frame but there seems to be a haze around top 2-3 inches of glass in many spots. Almost like hard water spots or mineral deposits. the water here in vegas is notoriously hard and most likely is the culprit. what can I use that is reef safe to get this off? (scratch) Would vinegar work? If so how much do i need? Id rather not buy 135 gallons of vinegar to fill the tank and let it soak. all help is appreciated! thanks in advance! (clap)

thats the exact idea I had vanz and is why i suggested the LR on the PVC tower...lol I wouldnt put sand under the pvc. just put the tower directly on the glass and then cover with sand. If you had a goby or other sand sifting critter they would eventually undermine the stability of the structure. sand shifts too much. but looking really good so far!

did you sell this? Is shipping an option? Im looking to get new lights for my 135g.

did this sell? I am looking for a double 400w for my 135g tank. how much?

Is this still available? Pics?

how much are you asking for the LR?

careful with the PH thru the pipes it may blow ur frags out lol. As for sand check the LFS there in redmond they may be able to hook u up with some sand from thier tanks.....

I personally dont think its going to be a problem especially ifc you have good critters in your sandbed. Everyone hates bristleworms but I think they would be perfect CUC to get into the pipes and keep em clean. If you are transfering your existing sandbed you should have a good CUC established. Some people are anal about thier tanks and swear by semi-sterile environments. I am not one of those. I say leave em open as a good bonus place for pods to breed. You might also think about extending the base PVC supports all the way to the end of the tank on all 4 sides to make the structure as stable as possible. just a thought. your sand should hide them.

personally if you are going to be leaving spots open for frags to sit then there wouldnt be any point of sealing ends. but if you were going to leave them sealed the n I would add endcaps to prevent detritus from building up inside pipes.

Good luck with the trimming. U could always take a chisel and break off the rock where the zoos have spread. I did it a few weeks ago to seperate some dragon eyes from the xenia that was overtaking the rock. I just covered the zoos in wet paper towels to keep any dirt or debris off them and to keep them moist.

nice tank..... should make for some good aquascaping ideas. u going to drill it? i like a tank I saw like that with a pvc center post and the LR drilled and slipped over it to create a column and other LR ziptied or epoxied off it in bridges and such. on a side note.... U live in redmond? I lived there with my wife for two years and she grew up there. Her Brother runs the Motorsports shop called ACE discount motorsports on the main drag across from the DQ. small world. lol

I wont be back in oregon for about 2 months but keep me in mind for future splits.

chromis schools are awesome. as are anthias. In my new 135 I am going for a good sized school of chromis. especially as I am looking to create as much of a back and forth wave current as possible and I love watching fish swim against the currents.

pop the frag off the rock and cook the rock. superglue doesnt hold THAT well. in fact some of the frags I put in the tank get popped off by hermits or my cleaner shrimp.

I personally have had good luck with my hydrometer. I tested it against a properly calibrated refractometer so I knew where i stood. my hydrometer is of by a bit so I have to remember to compensate. I always clean it realy well in hot water to get all the salt off after testing and most people dont know but for some reason the manufacturers reccomend u submerge a new hydrometer in fresh saltwater for 24 hours before using. But, FWIW, Refractometers are DEFINATELY the way to go!

I personally would only think filter media and LR would be susceptible (sp?) to copper absorption. thinks like tanks skimmers, pumps, silicone, would be non-porous once all building components were dry and cured. acrylic and silicone shouldnt absorb copper.

you said you were making your TOP OFF water or your WATER CHANGE WATER a week in advance? please clarify as the next part of your statement about water evap. and salt not evap. has me worried. there should be NO SALT in your top off water. just fresh RO-DI. maybe i just misunderstood.

whats the limits of ue as a wavemaker? I mean how far apart can they be placed and still be effective? will two work at opposite ends of a 6 foot tank?

wow nice score on the half circle. I will check the petco across the street from my work today and see if any bargains are to be had.

picked up tank. has one large glass brace in center sorta stacked in layers and two other braces at ends of tanks tucked under top trim. will psot a pic later.

thats a sick deal. tank alone goes for like $600.