Palani

Wow, back home I've always been taught to keep only enough for you to eat. Whatever is not edible/don't want to eat just throw it back in the ocean (not literally). And once you have enough for a meal, stop fishing and go home to eat. I would just take home the fish I caught and eat it that night. It sure does taste the best when you eat it the day that you catch it. That is what I'm going to teach my kids. They could at least use all of the parts of the shark for something. Like you could use the skin, teeth, use the meat to feed the homeless(beggars can't be choosers), ect... There is an endless amount of things to be used on a shark. You need to effieciently use the things you are catch. We here (including me) fall victim to that I'm sure, unless you have a back yard full of junk just waiting to be used for something.

There ya go, one of our LFS stepping in to help us out. Awesome.

everything has been under a 400w 6500K mh, so everything looks brown. Once everything colors up I'll take some close ups. I've got a hair algae issue right now, but I've reduced my feedings so its stopped its progress for now. I just added a ranfordi and randals goby this Sunday and they are doing great. Thanks Joel. I'm still putting together my 55 gallon hex w/closed loop and locklines. It will be pretty bitccccccchhhin. I'll keep people updated.

I might have another friend that might be interested in buying with us. I'll talk to him about it.

I just started with a JBJ 24 gallon nano cube. I ripped out the false wall, drilled the glass and made a little overflow box. I also took off the hood to make way for the clamp on 150 watt HQI Aqualight from Coralife. I didn't want to have the mh in the hood for heat reasons. I used the PCs from the hood for the refugium where I have a couple of baby kuda seahorses. I am using a HOB aqua remora c skimmer with the maxi-jet. For a return I use a mag 7 connected with a SQWD and a mj1200 w/hydor flow for more random circulation. Right now I'm dripping RO and Kalkwasser into a float valve so I can reduce the salinity swings with evap. Here are the pics. Whole shot Front shot Right side Left side Let me know what you think and what else can be done.

I'll be on that boat, so how much would it be?

You could deffinatly get that black "wallpaper" stuff from some fish store. That could work. I'll PM you for a used external pump.

Brandon, you need to got to Napa, they have it over there. I highly suggest you paint the back NOW, but make sure you cover everything else. I'd hate for you to regret something that you could have done to your well planned tank.

Well that's good. Everyone I have traded that blue sub. piece loves it. How's yours Bob? Like I said, if no one in Eugene wants/can help you out, you've got a friend in Corvallis, there is only one thing though.......

If you wanted to paint the back, use Krylon Fusion. It is made to bond to plastics. I would suggest it, to make it look more professional as it already is.

Hey Miles, I got a coral qt tank that I am slowly moving the corals out of. Once I'm done, you can have a take at it. I'm only 45 min. away if no one local is willing to take them in.

Might I also say that I've had some time to sit down and talk to falcon. He is a very reasonable trusting type of guy. Right now he has a lot on his plate, just go to his house to buy/trade something and you'll know what I mean. I give him an A+++, just a busy guy that's all.

Hey Falcon, clear your mailbox, I've got some other stuff to trade for the RO system.

Might as well go with the dart

It's about time someone broke through with this technology. I was kinda expecting it, caues of the lighting costs made by halides. I'm sure the wattage draw is close to 1/16 of a MH (or something like that).

Roy, I'm doing a clamp on 150w DE MH over my SPS nano tank I'm brewing up. It does cost a pretty penny though.

I now stand corrected. I'm glad that they did a smaller unit instead of the Dart. The only SMALL inconvience is that 2" intake. 2" PVC is HUGH, if you have a dart, you know what I mean. I'm estimating at around 4 ft. of head height you are looking at around 1300-1600 gph.

I think the dart is the smallest one. If you or anyone else need 2" bulkheads I got some for ya.

Yeah, there are benifits to lower temp., more so for fast growing fish such as tangs. As the temp. rises, so does their motabilism, which makes them grow faster, and eat more. If you are trying to lower nutrients and feed less w/o starving your fish, this is one way to do it. Like I mentioned before it also increase the O2 concentration in the water. More O2 for corals to photosynthesis equals to higher growth rate, and overall healthy corals, shrimp, snails, fish, and other inverts. With global warming being a factor to coral bleaching, I wouldn't want my temp. being too high anyways. It is also a fact that some corals are even exposed at low tide (with temps being over 90, I'm sure), but I don't know if corals "like" to be exposed. I mean, we can hold our heads in water for minutes at a time if we trained for it, but why do it if we don't have to? If anyone thinks otherwise, please be free to argue, like I said this a theory that I'm trying out in my tanks, so it is far from being fact. Anyone else have lower temp.?

That's ok Mike, the same thing happened to me after the meeting. I was just looking for a 4 line wrasse and some other fish for a friend of mine and I bought a colony and a frag of some acro. Joel had the hookups and it made me buckle at the knees and say, "I'll get it." The gf wasn't too pleased at first, but once she knew I bought it with the money I got from trading at the meeting, she was happy. So I'm worthless and weak as well.

Yep, Mike's got it right. That's why you need it to put it under moderate direct flow, to blow away all of the dead tissue, or else it's going to poison itself to death. I'm sure others have their own opinon, but it seemed to have worked for me.

Oh Bob, I totally agree with your avatar.

You want to get that ammonia down to 0.5 PPM (at least) then you'd be in the "safe" zone. Just do like 5 gallon WC's once a day. That way whatever is still alive on the rocks will have time to aclimate to the newer water. No need to pull the skimmer off.

I like to keep mine in the low 70's. Around 72-75ish. The corals seem to do fine and the fish love it even more. Remember, lower the temp. the more O2 can be kept per unit volume. You also want to keep your O2 levels at or close to the saturation point (with the use of ozone, which breaks down to O2) which increases the respiration and health of all of the animals in your tank, fish and inverts. It's because of these things that I like to keep my temp. on the lower side. I've got more reasons why I keep it lower, but this is only a theory that I have, and it seems to work great in my tanks with no problems.

With any LPS give it some moderate direct flow about 12-18" away from the frag. It will recover. Look to see if the hermit did any skeletal dammage (the little fins that stick up from inside the stalks), if all of the "fins" are well rounded and nothing is flaked off, you are in the green. If you see some places where it has been chipped off, you deffinatly want to put it in some moderate direct flow. In this case, there will be some die off, but in a month it should grow back to it's normal self.