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householdofpayne

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Posts posted by householdofpayne

  1. 4 minutes ago, SuncrestReef said:

    My Radion diffusers have a thin layer of smokey-white plastic. I've seen some school supply notepads that have a similar material as the front cover.  You might want to peruse the school supply aisle at Office Depot or Target.  Or possibly check Michaels or other craft stores, or art supply stores for similar materials.

    IMG_2734.jpg 

    That’s a great idea thanks

    • Like 1
  2. Just finished up my LED retrofit into my 6 gallon cube and I’m thinking I need some light diffusion. This is something that I was forecasting beings the light is like an inch off the water surface but I’m not finding much beyond wax paper for DIY diffusion. Are there any products out there that some members have had any luck with? It’s more pronounced in the photo then in person which works to my advantage for y’all to see what I’m trying to correct. 

     

    Thanks

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  3. So this turned into complete overkill hahha my plan was to put a AI Prime non HD in this. I had just picked up a Prime HD for my grandmothers tank, and had it sitting there so thought “perfect I’ll use that to mock up my DIY fab till I’m able to find a used prime for myself.” Wrapped the light in electrical tape so I wouldn’t scratch it. Well I scratched it 😔 looks like I’m buying another HD Prime for her because I’m OCD, and feel guilty giving her a light I scratched. So I present the hood with a Prime HD installed!!! The vent holes are not perfect that bugs me a bit, but where the tank is located I will never see them so eh I’ll call it a win.

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    • Like 2
  4. 42 minutes ago, NateDawg said:

    The one thing I'd be worried about is condensation on an led retrofit, and you would have to cut the hood so you could add a heat sink that will be able to get rid of heat coming off of high power LEDs as they don't like getting too hot. It's very possible but it would take alot of cutting of the original housing

    I sent ya a pm

  5. 19 hours ago, NateDawg said:

    Another update!

    - got everything set up and water tested, had to restart about 3 times since there is a little bit of pressure in this system, almost every spot that could leak leaked... but, finally fixed all those, got the light working and water flowing!20190512_231419.jpg 

    And I couldn't resist putting in the first frag! Good ol classic utter chaos. It opened up instantly which was a good sign.20190513_001333.jpg

    Did you make the light?

  6. Just now, SuncrestReef said:

    I use Red Sea Coral Pro salt, and according to my Hanna tests, it's 9.7 dKH, but if my Trident is correct then that's probably 0.5 too high.

    Since I'm set up with daily automatic water changes, my dosing is also supplemented with the higher alk of the new salt water on a daily basis.

    Yea I remembered you did the auto water changes (that’s so cool!) just wanted to take that into act when giving you my answer. If salt produced lower then your target would recommend keeping lower alk as you would be fighting an up hill battle. I say bring it up to where you thought it was gradually. My thought process is if you every have an emergency where you have to do close to a 100% water change it’s a less drastic change from norm.

  7. 4 minutes ago, SuncrestReef said:

    I guess the main question I have now is whether to keep my dosing as is with the lower than expected numbers, or if I should increase it to the level I thought it was actually at?  For the past 6 months I thought my alk was between 8.1 - 8.5, but in reality it was about 7.6 - 8.0.

    What alk does you newly made saltwater produce?

  8. 18 minutes ago, SuncrestReef said:

    After calibration my Trident readings are still lower than my manual test kits. Trident says my Alk is 7.8, but Hanna says it's 8.3, so a 0.5 dKH difference. I tested the leftover Trident calibration solution (labeled 8.4 dKH on the bottle) and the Hanna measured it as 8.9, so now I'm thinking my Hanna has been off by 0.5 this whole time. I might take a sample to CNC to get another reading.

    At least its consistent in how far its off. Definitely points to the Hanna being off for sure.

    • Like 1
  9. 8 minutes ago, NateDawg said:

    Another update!

    - got everything set up and water tested, had to restart about 3 times since there is a little bit of pressure in this system, almost every spot that could leak leaked... but, finally fixed all those, got the light working and water flowing!20190512_231419.jpg 

    And I couldn't resist putting in the first frag! Good ol classic utter chaos. It opened up instantly which was a good sign.20190513_001333.jpg

    Need me a frag of that!

  10. 1 minute ago, danlu_gt said:

    Sorry, I honestly don't think it'll work fitting ReeFi Pendant with your existing light housing.   The LED diodes are solder on customized metal core PCB which needs to be cool.  The pendant heatsink is over 3" tall.  Your depth is less than 2".

    Thank you for getting back to me :) I will be in the market for your V2 extreme for my other tank once those hit the market. Looking forward to a demo at an upcoming meeting!

    • Like 2
  11. 2 minutes ago, Optimusprime3605 said:

    One Reefi Extreme or Deluxe should do the job!
    Just run the lights at 2-3%.
    Any stronger, you'll boil water! emoji6.png

    Sent from Atlantis 🤙
     

    I was honestly thinking about reaching out to Reefi to see if he had any parts from the pendant available. The pendidant itself I dont think would fit in the enclosure I'm workjing with but if it was canalized I'm sure it could work, there is already 2 fans in the enclose area. 

    • Like 1
  12. So the bulb went out on the little cube that I picked up recently, and i'm at a crossroads of where I want to go with this tank lighting wise. I would like to start with high end zoas, and add sps down the line although that's a ways away as the tank was just established, and I'm monitoring fluctuation as I'm going basics with this tank. (carbon, filter floss, water changes) I really like the hood that's on it currently because it reduces evaporation to almost nothing which is a big deal on a 6 gal tank. So if I do switch out the light it would be best case scenario for it to fit in the current enclosure. The new jbj cubes did upgrade the light they came with to an LED but I'm just not convinced that it will put off the par I'm looking for with going through an upgrade. 

    This is the current bulb that is in the tank.

    https://www.amazon.com/LSE-Lighting-PL-L18W-TUV-Ultraviolet/dp/B00BRMVEEQ/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2_sspa?keywords=pl-18w+10000k&qid=1557845826&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1

    There are also 2 LED diodes that are blue so its very washed out with whites. 

    If I removed the current lighting components I would be working with a space that is 9.5" wide and 5" tall. The lid has a curve to it so the depth in the middle is 1.75" and tapers down to 1" towards the back of the tank. The tank has a depth of about 11" for the light to penetrate. So I guess what im getting at here is do I replace the current light that I have with a new light? Or do I supplement with more blues, and if this answer whats the best option for that? On of the reasons I am for replacing the light entirely is that I really like the idea of both spectrum being on a controller.   

    Thanks for your input,

     

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