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householdofpayne

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Posts posted by householdofpayne

  1. 6 hours ago, NateDawg said:

    I've only ever used a coralife 3x uv sterilizer and haven't noticed any issues and have seen a decrease in water column bacteria when observed under a microscope. They are about $100 New and are rated for up to 125 gallons. A couple things with any uv sterilizer is one, you want a very slow water moment through them in order to work, like only a couple gallons a minute so the microorganisms have as much contact time as possible. And second, uv sterilizers (at least consumer ones) don't actually generally kill the bacteria, virus, or algae. (Despite what alot of articles say) Uv light breaks the bonds between the DNA strands inside the microorganism, rendering it unable to reproduce and cause an outbreak. To my knowledge at least.

    Have you opened it up? I have read some of the coralife units rust up inside.

  2. 7 hours ago, SuncrestReef said:

    I really like my AquaUV Classic.  They are more compact than other brands which was important for me to fit it inside my cabinet.  You can get them with 3/4" or 2" fittings.  Maintenance is really easy.  I clean my quartz sleeve every 6 months and replace the bulb yearly, and it's a really simple process.

    Here's the 2" version, which is $40 less than your Emperor model, and 9" shorter:

    https://www.123ponds.com/a00028.html

    Screen Shot 2019-04-16 at 1.01.52 AM.png

    Interesting that marine depot carrys the same product in a different dimension. Do you see any other differences I'm missing? The marine depot one has on option for a wiper. Not sure I could utilize that with my space though.

    https://www.marinedepot.com/Aqua_UV_25_Watt_2_inch_UV_Sterilizer-AV2201-FIUVUU-AV2201-vi.html

    Found this one also for a very competitive price. Any con to the 3/4" outlet? Almost looks like a coupling that is removable. I was thinking I would be putting barbs there anyways. The smaller inlet shouldn't be a big deal beings you want lower flow anyways yea?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JDVR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

  3. 6 minutes ago, viper55 said:

    Not sure on the answer but many of the kits come with option for drinking water   I would think if you put a T after membrane you would get RO WATER before going to DI chsmber

    That’s how I have it set up but the auto shut off is not working correctly 

  4. So it is my hopes that I will be able to make RO water for drinking, and RODI water for the aquarium. I’m wanting to put an auto shut off on the RODI so that I can leave the water supply on to fill the reservoir. I installed a T that only allows flow in the direction it is set to. So it will default to the DI canister and only be switched to drinking water when I’m filling a 5g jug. Because of this I moved one of the inlets for the auto shut off from pre RO canister to PRE DI canister. That way the T can be switched to drinking water and the float valve not stop flow through the RO canister. With this set up when I close the float valve I still get waste flow. What am I doing wrong!!!

    E2EAAFD9-9269-4BF4-852B-02AA73CD63C0.jpeg

  5. Get holding tank set up early to make sure it cycles. I was in for an unfortunate surprise when I found out my emergency set up bare bottom QT tank went through a mini cycle. I would recommend moving some filter floss from your display into the holding tank to speed things up. 

  6. 18 minutes ago, lewisriverfisherman said:

    The ones on the left are a purple and green acan, the middle one is a rainbow and the one on the right is a Alien blood pool lord from Rudy(these are red with a green mouth).  None of these are getting proper light as they are sitting under a frag rack and my phosphates have been a little high lately.  The green and purple ones have 4 heads, you can have for $15 . And if you are interested I will have to frag the others for you.

    20190405_162808.jpg

    20190405_163647.jpg

    Who can pass up on a $15 acan. Super interested in seeing the dead pool lord in person. PM Sent

     

  7. So I have a bunch of “bugs” on the glass of our pico jar. I first believed them to be flat worms, but am starting to think I have a ton of copapods, and maybe a few flat worms as well? What do you all think? What I believe to be flat worms is circled. They all really obstruct the viewing field. What’s ya’lls recommendation?

    0415B93C-B6EC-4090-852D-9344A403C9B5.jpeg

    215CADD6-DF78-417B-8076-6A0490C62CF1.jpeg

  8. So did some upgrades and measured as I went along.

    Started with a 4 stage RODI with a pressure of 60psi. I think new there was suppose to be a flow restrictor in the line that I did not have, so the first measurement might be a bit below that of one new out of the box. I have a inlet of 22TDS, and of course an outlet of 0 TDS.

    The first product I installed was a 600ml fast flush. This went in place of the restrictor I was missing, and allows be to go wide open the first 10 or so minutes of start up. 

    https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/membrane-flush-valve.html

    The second product I installed was the water saver upgrade kit. This was just adding a second RO membrane. Below are what I measured. 

    https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/water-saver-upgrade-kit-bulk-reef-supply.html

     

    4 stage w/60 PSI: 1 gal RODI Produced 25 gal waste for a total of 1:25 or 4% in 25 minutes

    Added fast flush w/80 PSI:  1 gal RODI Produced 3 gal waste for a total of 1:3 or 33% in 15 minutes

    Added 2nd RO w/80 PSI:     1 gal RODI Produced 1.25 gal waste for a total of 1:1.25 or 80% in 5 minutes.

     

    I am very pleased with the end result and find it much more feasible to now recapture the remaining waste and bring it out to the yard. I am also happy with the fact that I purchased the auto shut off kit, as with this fast of a production I could see myself making a giant mess really fast 😂

    https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html

     

     

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