householdofpayne
-
Posts
261 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by householdofpayne
-
-
2 hours ago, Jorge said:
I also have a frag of this one available!
First come first serve!
is this frag for real or just another 4/1 tease 😮
-
Heres a 100g in oregon city.
https://www.farmstore.com/product/rubbermaid-weather-crack-resistant-stock-tank-100-gal/
Coastal has them in Gresham or Oregon City.
https://www.coastalfarm.com/product/rubbermaid-stock-tank-100-gal/
-
1 hour ago, xmas_one said:
Your raw tap water is 24ppm?
I’m wondering how necessary it is to run RO/DI on 24ppm water.
Way back when we used to run terrible tap water ~400ppm with just dechlor to mix with salt. Not ideal, but it worked.
Figured my DI resin would last a year haha
-
1
-
-
40 minutes ago, MrBret said:
Your tank mates could talk??
Post a pic or 2 and and a caption....should be fun
" I think he went That way------> "
"Go down till ya feel a bump and take a left, then a little further till ya feel another bump and turn left, followed by a little further..........."
-
2
-
-
We set up one of these about a month and a half ago, dont regret it at all. Not really an aio but that size your doing massive water changes anyways.
-
6 hours ago, parvo99 said:
The easiest way to automate your RO/DI is to get this
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html
Thank you that was exactly what I was looking for!
-
1 hour ago, Blue Z Reef said:
Good to see that pressure come up! Have you measured/timed your waste vs product? Ideally your waste should be 3 or 4:1 (lots of factors including water quality/system/pressure/etc affects this). You should get the fast flush for flow restriction.
I dont think any issues should arrise from heating the water as long as your storage container is clean. Just be a bit of a waste of energy is all but that’s your call.
i don’t use any floats or anything on mine so can’t help out there (garage flood pro LOL).
I haven't measured waste to product yet just got my water change corner set up! Before hand I had the RODI under the kitchen sink and would put outlet to a 5 gal bucket, and the waste down the drain. We had a stand up shower that no one ever used so I converted it into my water change corner haha. Bottom can is on wheels so I can wheel it out to the tank for water change.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, parvo99 said:
The flow restrictor is required for your RO to work properly. Looking at the pictures, it looks like you hooked it up incorrectly. If I’m not mistaken the clear line coming out of the RO canister is your waste line. Not sure where you got the clear tubing, but there should have been yellow (waste line) and black (inlet line from water source). On your model, the flow restrictor is inside the yellow tubing. It looks like you used the yellow tubing as the inlet instead of the waste line.
There should have been a plastic piece like this stuck inside one end of the yellow tubing
I got the unit 2nd hand and the yellow was already the inlet. I have cut the end going into the RO unit on the yellow tubing. I will take the other end out of the shut off to. Make sure it’s not installed on the inlet side.
-
On 3/20/2019 at 11:02 AM, Blue Z Reef said:
Sorry, based on reviews since you don’t have a booster pump get a 600. I use an 800 on mine but use a booster pump.
the flush part of it is just a little black valve you turn. All it’s doing is changing the oriface size. So you go from wide open (which is what you have now and is typically used to flush out the membrane prior to use for 15 mins) to restricting to 600ml flow rate output on waste. This will up your pressure a bit and cut the waste out down to an acceptable level.
make sense? Do some reading on it but I thought all systems came with them...I know mine did.
So I moved where my RODI unit was located and now I am getting 60psi at the inlet. The production has increased but still quite a bit of waste. Would you still recommend getting a fast flush, or maybe a 2nd DI membrane? My next thing I would like to set up is a float switch for my storage container. I'm having trouble finding the solenoid that stops the waste water as well could you point me in the direction in what I would need for that? Is there any cons to keeping RO water heated? Was thinking this would make it faster to mix water in case of an emergency, but didn't know if it increased chance of bacteria or something.
-
First saw those photos and was like reef box is going to be the Costco of LFS 😂
-
1
-
-
1 minute ago, Blue Z Reef said:
Sorry, based on reviews since you don’t have a booster pump get a 600. I use an 800 on mine but use a booster pump.
the flush part of it is just a little black valve you turn. All it’s doing is changing the oriface size. So you go from wide open (which is what you have now and is typically used to flush out the membrane prior to use for 15 mins) to restricting to 600ml flow rate output on waste. This will up your pressure a bit and cut the waste out down to an acceptable level.
make sense? Do some reading on it but I thought all systems came with them...I know mine did.
Yes totally makes sense! I only need to buy the fast flush sized at 600. Thank you very much for helping me solve this. I felt like I was wasting sooooooo much water.
-
Just now, Blue Z Reef said:
They just go on the outlet line. The fast flush one is better if you don’t have a flush kit which appears you don’t.
So the 800ml restrictor would go on the waste line I got that. Where would the fast flush go?
-
1 minute ago, Blue Z Reef said:
Don’t worry about the 77 degree part, that’s only for “ideal” conditions. If you have it on a faucet you can adjust to around that temp and also enjoy the benefit of warm water if making for a water change. If not, don’t sweat it.
45PSI isn’t bad. Sounds like you just need a flow restrictor on the waste. If you are 100gpd then you want an 800ml one.
What does GDP stand for? Thank you for helping me through this and holding my hand. hahaha
-
2 minutes ago, Blue Z Reef said:
So you should either have one of these:
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/membrane-flush-valve.html
OR
Something like this:
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reverse-osmosis-flow-restrictor.html
I don’t see either of those anywhere on the unit are you saying I need to add one? If so which one would you suggest, where would I add it?
-
18 minutes ago, Blue Z Reef said:
The manual states for ideal rejection rates you need 50 PSI at 77 degrees. Definitely check your pressure.
Do you have a flow restrictor installed on your waste output line?
Had an extra minute and installed the gauge on the inlet. I have 45psi of water feeding the RODI
-
4 minutes ago, Blue Z Reef said:
The manual states for ideal rejection rates you need 50 PSI at 77 degrees. Definitely check your pressure.
Do you have a flow restrictor installed on your waste output line?
water is for sure not 77 degrees its colder.
It does not have a restrictor that I'm aware of. The waste line comes out of the top 4th filter chamber via 1/4 line and theres nothing on that after the RODI unit.
-
11 minutes ago, albertareef said:
Given your reported 1:10 ratio I would start on the inlet side to make sure you are providing sufficient feed pressure. BRS had a nice video where they looked at output vs inlet pressure. That suggested you at least wanted to be at 60 but increases beyond that (booster pump) continued to increase efficiency up to at least 90 psi (if I remember correctly).
As to the question about portability - if you have potable water going in and maintain your system (no bacteria) it should be potable “waste water”. If you think about it, at a “good” 1:4 ratio, the impurities in you waste water are only going to be 20% higher than they were in the tap water (at worst). Now, if your tap water is bad to start with that is a different story.
When I do use my home RODI setup, I would run the waste water into our washing machine and do laundry in it. Always thought about setting up a catch barrel to water the plants but have been too lazy.
I will get the pressure gauge hooked up tonight and report back with my inlet pressure to further diagnose. MY inlet TDS is 24ppm, outlet TDS is 0.
-
6 minutes ago, Blue Z Reef said:
Something sounds wrong, waaaay wrong if you are having a 1:10 product to waste ratio. What membrane are you running? Do you have a pressure gauge to tell what pressure you are getting?
If I had to guess, I would assume your waste flow restrictor is either wrong for your membrane or not present. What system are you using?
Ive debaited using the waste for the garden but usually just have my waste line go to the yard to water the bushes or lawn.
I have a marine Depot 4 stage RODI. I just got a pressure gauge I the mail but wasn’t sure where I should install it. I had read some people put it on the inlet to make sure they have enough pressure. Others after one of the membranes to show when the material inside needs replaced
-
I just recently started making my own RODI Water. Its been killing me watching all that waste water just go down the drain. Today I changed up the method, and put the waste water to 5 gallon jugs and brought it out to water the garden. I quickly found this is not a sustainable practice, and began to wonder if anyone else had a system in place. We have galvanized supply lines to our house that makes our tap water absolutely disgusting to drink. Because of this we have water delivered to our house from sierra springs, and have a water dispenser. Is the waste water from RODI potable, and would it maybe filter out the gross stuff from our tap? What systems do you have in place to recover the waste and utilize it elsewhere? Also wondering if I'm pumping out more waste then others and if maybe I have something set up wrong. I have made around 1-2 gallons of RODI water, and dumped about 15-20 gallons of waste.
Tanks Ya'll!!!!
-
Staff has always been very friendly, and even been available during the week when they were closed for water when my kids have created an emergency. That being said I use to go here, and have noticed the dirty tanks. The majority of their stock honestly seems like trade ins, and I think this is why they have such dirty tanks. I have switched over to cuttlefish being my go to store for everything. One thing I’ve learned that is key in this hobby is patience. If Jeff doesn’t have what I am looking for instock I’m confident he can get it in a reasonable amount of time. Cuttlefish husbandry comes across as clinical to me. The staff there have always been very attentive, and Jeff is VERY personable. Thank you cuttlefish for providing an amazing experience that makes it well worth driving over an hour to visit. That being said paradise also has some amazing zoas 😂🤷🏼♂️
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, albertareef said:
A UV bulb rated in kilowatts! Dang... that was an investment.
Thanks to the Clackamas county, and city of Happy Valley tax payers
-
On 3/14/2019 at 10:53 PM, SuncrestReef said:
Just curious, how may watts is that UV light, and how many GPH flow through it?
The lamp is rated at 4.9kwatts and emits 58 mj/cm2
-
15 minutes ago, albertareef said:
Interesting - I hadn’t seen this one before. Comments are interesting (as always). If only it could be as simple as filling up off our water changes 🙂
Agreed, made me wonder if the could refine salt water or if they added special salts to fresh water. If they can refine ocean saltwater I would be interested in the cost compared to collecting oil and refining that.
-
1
-
-
Combining 2 of my interests I call that a win. No more dumping this week old expensive water in the toilet!
Pico Jar
in Nano Tanks
Posted · Edited by householdofpayne
Boy oh boy what a day to ask ahaha. We added a aqua-cultured mandarin on Thursday and left it over the weekend beings it is located at my wifes work. This morning it was dead and I think it had been there awhile based off the ammonia spike (good thing I came in prepared for a water change this morning) We planned on only having the one fish but I really think we are going to stick with just corals after this disaster. (Maybe we'll change our mind and add another down the road on a Monday so we can monitor closer.) This was after we traded in a velvet purple urchin because it took a giant bite outta the beautiful acan we were showcasing up front, and totally consuming our feather. Starting to accept critters are going to be its demise, so were sticking to corals for now.
On a positive note, it grows zoas like no other! The 2 zoas that I started with have doubled the amount of polyps that they have in less then 2 months. The color we get outta the light is amazing. My wife gives me daily updates about whats going on in the tank in a excited manner, telling me it was the perfect gift. Working on not being frustrated with the last 2 little set backs, and look at it as a learning experience.