Trigger334

You could cap off the pick-ups, assuming they are pick-ups and just make sure the one pick-up you are using is as far as it can be away from the inputs. You do need to trace each line to find what they do. You would have the pickup on the other side of the pond, to the filter, through the UV, to the waterfall. If you were to use take intake at the bottom, you could turn that into the slow flow veggie filter right in the middle of the pond. Build a trellis and put in your bog plants, volcanic rock. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/ClearPond.html#veggie_filters This is what will really make the biggest difference. Its recommend to have more than one pump, just in case.

Its hard to do treatments and establish a filter at the same time. I recommend a well seeded sponge filter for treatment tanks. You can consider something like SeaChem Stability to aid the cycle at this time of treatment. I prefer SeaChem Stability for how quick and how well it maintains the cycle. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#highammonia

We would recommend the intake to a filter be as fair from the filter as possible for best results. If an intake doesn't have a filter, say for the water fall, it would be fine closer by. If that's an intake over on the wall by the filter, you could extend it down and over across the pond with PVC. We highly recommend a veggie filter with bog plants, soil, and a gentle flow threw it. In all our time services ponds, veggie filters make the more improvement for filtration and clarity of water. If you could, also add a sterilizer for clarification.

I would recommend a product call NPX Bioplastics. It work in a reactor and manages Nitrates and Phos, very well. Here's a indepth article on how to manage Nitrates in a handful of ways. Hope it helps. http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/07/aquarium-nitrates.html

A resource for your pond fun. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/ClearPond.html

For me, it comes down to how many watts are creating the "useful" energy from the LED. Most all can grow the corals, just how much energy does it take. My guess of what we'll see in the feature is fixtures using less watts with more useful energy. They have some one the market already, they are just a different level of tech from the norm. I think it will become the norm, as there's extra benifits to fixtures, once less energy can be used. (no fan, less heat, different color renditions, better dimming control...) Exdous, you might find some of Apogee research interesting. It can be found on their site. When people talk about full spectrum they are inferring it to the RQE (supposedly the useful energy) different than PAR and of course color. Some info on how PAR/PAS/RQE plays into aquarium fixtures. http://www.aquarium-digest.com/2010/04/11/led-aquarium-lights-lighting/ PAR vs. PUR/PAS http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2012/03/pur-vs-par-in-aquarium-lighting.html

American Aquarium has a handful of items on sale. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/index.html

Looks like 410 to 655. 8%

Want to know how accurate it is and what kind of spectral error it has. Apogee claims their meters are accurate in 370-665nm (not the full PAR useful 400-700), with a 8% error. This leaves out some important light according the RQE. More expensive meters starting around $800 will be accurate from 300-1000nm, no error. Still gives a relative idea, which is good. Wonder if this holds true for this meter?

Rubbing Alcohol http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/knowledge-base/#technicalfaqs Glad to see this come out. We've been doing a lot of research in the lighting from apogee lately. PAR has been interesting to understand, eps with LEDs being the common lighting method now and how water plays a role.

Here's a recent AA article by Dana relevant to the conversion as well. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/4/corals

Matt, Maybe you can add PAS to this thread. I've been continually working on my lighting research and have come to some seriously grand conclusions. You also may be interested in some 2014 Apogee research, where they compare LED to MH & HPS light proton output. I found it very interesting that LEDs produce 5-10x more light protons, then MH/HPS. That means, the PAR from these high output options, we used to think of as the best professional grade lighting is not the same as PAR from an LED and how "useful/PAS" light plays into PAR. Interesting work. Totally concerted what I believe about LEDs and how much PAR is needed. It made me stand by what I know even more. Also something to know is that RQE graph is for terrestrial plants, so what can be considered for growth underwater would be different. The Apogee work goes into quality of lighting versus quantity, which is interesting when applying to LEDs. Cheers.

Nice side by side. Interesting tech coming out about lighting. We now have LEDs, that what's being picked up by the coral for growth and how the color is displayed are two different things. Amazing stuff. Thanks for sharing.

Wonderful display. I'm glad people are becoming successful with these corals. I wonder how they get their color? Thanks for sharing.

I've had a tread here going for a little while following the Balling and Triton methods. Has some videos too. Might add some value to this thread. I believe theClark was the most interested in this thread too http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/33886-super-growth-dosing-method/

There's other things that can help with Nitrates too. Algone, NPX Bio...

I would go for one, which gives at least level 1 protection. Many could provided clarification... http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

Specific day?

Welcome Fernando. Lots of cube lovers around here. They sure look nice. Smart man about the wife. I would always check here for deal. People always posting. Nice to meet you.

Dip them if you can. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Ich.html#marine

Here's what our company does. http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/08/aquarium-moving.html

Are your parameters all in check? If so, a healthy fish can kick ich with just some time. A UV also helps as it keeps Ich out of the water column, but also improves the fish immunity to kick the ich. There is the whole QT process too. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Ich.html

Here's a couple threads going on around here lately. http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/33737-opinion-on-leds/ http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/33794-reef-lighting-theory-basics/

Carbon

Removed any carbon? What's the reading?