Trigger334

You should read a little more and understand some history. 40 years of professional experience shows most people don't need DI. It was common knowledge, before the internet came about and fancy groups like this we're created. We've keep 1000s of aquariums long term. The experience is vastly greater than most. That's not boosting, that's just facts.

Understand that. The science speaks for itself. There's no proof 0 TDS does anything better for any tank. So, it's a piece of mind deal, which isn't worth it money and hassle wise. It was actually common knowledge in the the industry/hobby before the internet came around and mass economy marketers started pushing it.

Check the article linked too. Owner of American Aquarium Products. Might want to check the bio as well. 40 years professional service. It's not fresh ideas. DI of late became very popular when mass marketers for economic goods started pushing it... I don't expect that second statement to ever happen, my 5 years being part of this group has proven that if you not in the cool kids club, you have no influence, but they'll make sure to get your donation each year

It's debatable, but your debating with someone who's had experience with 100s of applications with many different RO/DI units in the hobby. That's more experience than 100 people have in a lifetime with their one or two sets-ups they have for a decade? If you follow the crowds, your most likely going to follow people who end up followers marketers with the deepest pockets. Which is how DI entered the market.

I understand what your saying, as that's the typical reasoning for most all marine keepers when they hear this. With a TDS of 250+ a well designed TMC RO will have about 7 TDS afterwards. In 100s of applications 7 TDS vs 0 has never shown to make any impact in the aquarium. So, your paying for a piece of mind you do not really need. The amount of anything that could be the bit enough harmful would be in such a trace amount, it would be nothing compared to ocean water. And, who's to say, your not taking something out, which would be beneficial, which your not replacing with the salts used, since most all people use economy salt.

Well, take it from professionals who have kept 1000s of tanks. The people would think you need DI have been fooled by economy RO units, then popular hobby personalities like Mr. Saltwater Tank Guy get a hold of it and it becomes truth in this hobby. This is the single #1 myth in this hobby.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdMQ_mgMFFw

Woop Woop. American Aquarium Products is headquartered in Grants Pass! Worldwide service in your city.

I'd consider top of the line TMC. They have medical grade membranes and a design meant for less waste water. A three stage RO will get you the same results as a 4 or 5 stage RO with DI from BRS. Ends up saving you money in the long run. This is our recommendations from using RO on 100s of tanks. http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/01/use-of-ro-di-softwater-in-aquariums.html

We put a silicone bead on the inside and outside of the head. Makes them last decades. Also make sure to not over tighten them. This is the only reason we've seen them bust.

Take a look at our educational library. All free and written from a professional. I'd look at disease prevention, chemistry, lighting, saltwater basics, nutrition, and UVC http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Information.html

Thought so too... These are older generation emitters at that. The new fixtures have even better color in my opinion. One of the trick things about the new fixtures. The emitters are patented from Osram... "Nature Perfect" First emitters developed to be the same color as the natural ocean, can be over driven, plus take moisture variances (which usually lead to shorten life of aquarium LEDs) ...PLUS, what you see and what are provided to the corals are two different things. Light blue to the eye, with dark blue/purple power. Nothing else like them :cool:

Must be taptalk? I can see it from the PC and phone.... Here's a phone link

Hey Randall... Check it out. A shallow friend with AquaRay

The standard policy is to refund about 85-95% on free shipping. If there's a refund/return and they refund the shipping back, that's very nice of them, cause that money out of the retailers pocket, for more than likely misuse, or a change of mind on the customers end. Add that up over a year, with how many people do this, it adds up quick. It's becoming a unfortunate thing that the hobbyist expect from big discounter companies like Amazon, all the while, forcing smaller businesses to shut down.

Free shipping also tends to mean the slowest most unsecured shipping method. If its fragile, really consider upgrading .

Free shipping is just made up in the cost of the items guys. (We do free shipping too...so we know)

I'd recommend looking into the TMC line. 1 tile would cover the 29 gal with their square spread. All patented tech from the UK. Great light blue color, with dark blue/purple power. AAP also picked up the AI HD, which allows dimming of colors, while over driving others. Pretty cool tech. Or the TMC V2 iLumenAir (Simaliar build to the Maxspect Razor and Zetlight) http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDLights.html http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDOther.html Ships out of Oregon. TMC has the longest warranties on the market, which warranties will tell you the quality of the LED build IMO

We have Rio and SunSun. Ships from Grants Pass.

One of the better LEDs out. Surprised your getting rid of it.

Done it a couple of ways. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#algae

There's a reason these are such a good price and that DI.... you don't need it. An extra expense, you don't need. The reason they are cheap, is because of the cheap membranes, which are completely outdated, back to when RO first came out. You will hands down, have better success with a quality 3 stage with no DI, then a 4-6 stage cheap RO/DI. Plus the added expense of having to replace more membrane and that DI resin... spendy... These units also have been known to concentrate certain things like Nitrate or Ammonia... http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/01/use-of-ro-di-softwater-in-aquariums.html

We have some. Located in Grants Pass though. Could have it to you in a day or two.

I guess that would be the case, if your trying to maximize PAR, by using narrow beam emitters. In TMC's case, they use 120 angle emitters, with only 10 HO diodes. The fixtures I'm thinking are TMC, which have 10 emitters 30 watts, all driven at 700mA. I'm not sure what effciency of each emitter is, but when I check on a couple of thm, they were designed to be driven at high mA and still maintain their lifespan. One problem with many of the fixtures with many more emitters, they don't have the proper circuity, especially when it comes to dimming and using multiple types of emitters. Many are just "daisy chained" like Christmas lights. With more and more diodes in these set-up, there is an increasingly chance of issues. Then add moisture that will get into that circuity over time... so while the quality of light is decent, there's construction issues I see to have a quality light set up long term. There are many different set-up/requirements. That I agree 100%. As far as a sole aquarium reef LED or diode... that has been out for some time.

Constitution wise, isn't it better to have few higher output emitters, meant to be driven at a high mA, with wide optics, then a fixture with many more emitters at lower mA? This leads to potential circuity issues, especially when dimming and moisture is involved. As far as energy, does look like a good amount of PAR.