reeftripper

I have a spot for that Clam.

I have a spare set too. I am in Medford.

I recently got a couple of what you're looking for from, Sonn Nguyen at Rip City frags.https://www.google.com/search?q=rip+city+frags&rlz=1C1AOHY_enUS743US743&oq=rip+city+frags&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3.5042j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8. I got mine from Son personally. Frags were large, chunky and clean. I highly recommend him.

I got my JF homewrecker and Walt Disney from Unique Corals. I got some other high-end frags from them also. Not cheap. Great frags at a fair price. I said fair, not cheap. good luck.

I believe I saw one at Jody Grows place in Medford last month. You could give him a call at Tidal zone Maintenance.http://tidalzonemaintenance.com/store/?offset=30. I still say jody is the best place to get corals for me. Good luck.

Got several but they are in the tank still. My friend has a couple I pulled out that are for sale. Very large. 12 inch? we are in Medford. Make me an offer?

Very cool little tank. I like it .

Save your money. Put some GFO in a small mesh sock. Do not pack it tight. leave it loose. Put the GFO in an area of steady water flow. BRS recommends 2 tablespoons of HC GFO for your 20 gallon tank.and 5 tablespoons of their granular gfo. change out every month or two. Personally, on a tank your size, I would control phosphate with regular water changes. Keep it simple. Where are the phosphates coming from? probably the food you are feeding. Take a look at the amount of food you are feeding and schedule you are following. I am guilty of overfeeding. Just my opinion. I have fought phosphates in my 220 gallon, tang friendly, mixed reef for years. I also recommend you get a ultra low phosphorous Hannah checker for salt water. Do regular water testing. Keep a log. I run a Reef dynamics BPR-250 with GFO. Reef dynamics made a smaller unit. they are out of business but I swear by their products. you can find their products for sale. Good luck

Jody Grow in Medford had some for sale. Tidal zone Maint./ Totally Exotic Corals. Give him a try.

I have several large RBTA. 8-10 I am in Medford.

For the past five+ years I have been keeping a: Purple, Yellow, Powder Blue, Sail fin, and Hippo tang in a 220g Mixed reef tank. All are large, Fat and Healthy. All were purchased as small specimens. I have had the Yellow and Hippo tang over ten years. These two started out together in a 72g Bow front. Tangs are my favorite fish. I am looking for a large Black Tang to add to this system. My system is controlled by an Apex controller, two MP-40 Vortechs, 100 gallon sump, Reef dynamics 180 Skimmer, Ozotech Ozone generator. Plus a Dart Closed loop. It was pointed out Tangs are messy. Very True. Get the best skimmer you can afford. They also Love Random Current and Circulation. The Vortech is expensive but nothing else compares in my opinion. You will not be sorry getting any one of the tangs that have been suggested. But beware... Tangs need room; and a large system can be expensive to set up and to maintain. Enjoy your Tang.

Phosphates Hello Jose, First, I do have a couple of reactors out in the "bone yard" in my back yard. I'll make you a killer deal on one if you want one. There is not much to them. How big is your tank and how large of a reactor are you looking for? Before you start dumping money, like I did, at your LFS fighting phosphates let me share some things I learned in my Struggle. I fought phosphates in my 210g mixed reef tank (lots of tangs). This is very important: phosphates are not just an aquarium problem. It is a problem in lakes, streams, swimming pools, HOT TUBS, etc. Before you start buying the grossly over priced stuff at the fish store and start running a reactor let me share some things I learned. The products that are offered in the LFS usually deal with low phosphate #'s. The products that promise quick and dramatic drops in higher phosphate #'s are expensive and come in small bottles and do not list their ingredients. After researching the subject I found the "Secret ingredient" to be Lanthium Chloride. This is what is used in almost all products that deal with phosphates. Swimming pools, hot tubs, lakes and rivers. You can buy it by the quart at your local hot tub store for about 30.00. It will not be called lanthium chloride but it will be listed as such in the ingredient list. The brand name of the product I used was "SEAKLEAR" 1 quart treats 20,000 gallons. A shot glass in my tank is what I used. This caused the phosphates to "precipitate" out and then I filtered them out using a mechanical type filter. My phosphates dropped from off the chart to below 10 in just a few days. Google Lanthium chloride and you will find more details. A reactor is more of a maintenance item than a cure for an off the chart Phosphate reading. I do not run a phosphate reactor. I do run a Calcium reactor, a Kalk reactor, a Sulpher reactor, and two protein skimmers. I buy my calcium Chloride for my calcium reactor at wall mart (Morton side walk deicer), my magnesium sulfate supplement is found at Walmarts pharmacy (epson salts). I love my LFS but I work hard for my money. I hate to give it up. Hope this helps. If you still want a reactor pay the postage and the cost of a 1/2 rack of Coors light and I'll let you have one of mine. I do not have any media. These are just my opinions. Take em or leave em. If you want feel free to call me at 541 621 0081. Good luck Gary

I am afraid I must disagree with you Rick. Maybe it is the second glass of wine. This is a subject where there is not much room for discussion. Electricity is physics and it will kill you. If all is perfect and your GFI is wired correctly and your home circuit is wired correctly then you may not be killed. My family depends on me. I know others count on their loved ones to come home. In good faith I cannot set by and watch people make comments and give advice that I know is dangerous and irresponsible. I have seen someone killed by making a mistake with electricity. Not "tingled". Killed. Now this subject can be talked about and and bounced back and forth from this thread and another. Again Rick this is a subject where the answer was found long ago. to discuss it further just complicates and muddy s the subject and puts peoples lives at risk. No offense but if one is truly concerned ....call a licensed electrician. This hobby is bad enough with out getting physically hurt. Lord Knows what a A--Kicking our bank account takes. Gotta smile--And another glass chardonnay Gman

Look guy this is not rocket science. a ground probe and your body both have one thing in common. they conduct electricity to ground. How good of a ground depends on many factors. How wet your floor is can be the difference between a tingle and being dead. Voltage does not harm you. AMPERAGE will kill you. If all things are working great and we have world peace you can keep sticking your arm in the water and you will keep getting that tingle feeling. Good luck. Myself I am an unlimited maritime Chief Engineer for 25 years and I tell you it is not worth the risk. I do not stick my arm in the water after the first tingle. That is Russian roulette. Any one who tells you different is a fool. DO NOT make this more complicated than it is. Electricity can kill you. 110 volts is as dangerous as 100000 volts. Get a probe. Keep your hands out of the water until you know what is going on. Do not use your life as a guinea pig. And that is all I have to say on that subject. Be wise. PS-I live in Medford if I can help let me know I do not want to see you get hurt. Gman

when you are dealing with electricity you need to be careful. There are lots of things you can do with electricity and get away with it. BUT then again something will be different the next time and you could be zapped. If you have a "tingle" when you touch your water you have a problem. Getting zapped should scare you. It is dangerous and can be fatal. I had a co-worker killed on the job. People who take chances with electricity are foolish. Some advice: Get a fluke brand voltage tester:#1ac-a1-11 volt alert. this small unit looks like a magic marker and can be obtained from Grainger for about 30.00. The Grainger part # is 2KU25. Touch your water with this unit it will tell you if voltage is present. Test your electrical outlets to see if they are wired correctly. Modern electrical outlets have three holes for the cord to plug into. The round one on the bottom is your ground. now you have two flat slot holes that are two different sizes. the small flat hole is the "hot " lead. It has the voltage. The larger of the two holes is the neutral and completes the circuit. Use your fluke tester, only the small flat hole should test hot (have voltage present) I would test your water for voltage by touching the surface with the fluke voltage detector. when the water tests positive for voltage I would, one by one, begin to unplug your equipment until the problem is found. With a helper this should only take a couple of minutes. good luck.

Mine represents a "happy place" I go to relax and unwind. I can sit in my Chair and go into a zone like trance watching my tank. Reeftrippin is my hobby. Coral is my drug of choice.

Cool ending to a crappy story

power panel check out this link www.melevsreef.com/power_panel.html. Mel has a 280g system that dealt with the power panel issue that you appear to have. The American DJ power strip can be obtained locally at "the Guitar center". The proper size and color of Zip ties for most projects are almost invisible. Good luck with your project. Looks like you have all the bells and whistles.

welcome to the club.

cool little guy

Frank and Sheri, Very sorry for your loss. We are all in agreement that this sucks. I have walked in your shoes. I had rings and ear rings that I bought for my wife disappear. They were stolen by a trusted friend who came into our home while we were away. I got them back. I would like to tell you how. Maybe you can do the same. I called the local police and contacted their "Pawn program". All pawn shops must report what they take in. I gave the lady that oversees the local pawn program a description of the jewelery, when it was taken, and a list of names that had opportunity to take the items. She had a hit in less five minutes. She also told me of other stolen items that I had not yet discovered missing. This has worked for me on two occasions. Both times I was hurt and shocked by who the thief was. Good luck. I Know how you feel. Reeftripper

I see no reason this won't work. Do use a small light above the cheato (5-6.5K) I would rotate the cheato every couple of weeks to get the light to the bottom cheato. When your cheato is growing well harvest some every couple of weeks. something else that might be cool would be a single red mangrove. I bought 12 last week for 20.00 and that included shipping. Good luck.

Hello I am new to this website. Heard good things about this group from my friend Jody in Medford. My main set-up(money pit) at this time is my 210g reef tank mounted in my living room wall. I can view this tank from the front and back. On the back side I have a combination fish room and office. Calling it a "Man cave" would be generous,(no keg) More accurate would be a "hobby hole". I have a 100g acrylic sump that does double duty as a refugium. My main return pump is a Dart. I run a calcium reactor and two skimmers: a euro reef and a Etts 800 down draft skimmer. !/4 horse chiller. my light system seems to be in constant evolution. I was running 3 150 watt 20K DE Radium MH bulbs in a nice light bar. I wanted more light so I changed this up to 3 250 watt 20k mogul base Anthony Calfo MH bulbs in pendants. (to much clutter above my tank). I just recently changed to a sleek light bar by Oddeysea: it came with 3 250 watt 15K DE bulbs. I am disappoined by these bulbs. When the budget allows and the wife catches her breath again I will purchase a trio of 250 watt Radiums. Looking to the future I have my eye on a DIY build on reefaddicts.com for an LED build. will post pictures in the future. I must say the hardest part to putting my system was the first hammer blow through the living room wall. This tank has been up and rumnning for about a year now. Dealing with nitrates now. I realize that I have been to lazy with my water tests. Now I am reading up on water parameters. That is how I came to This website. Would welcome any and all advice or tips. G