Arsonmfg

http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/34715-35-frag-sale/

Bump this back up, lots more than what's pictured still for sale!

I hate to say it but you're probably going to have to drop your price quite a bit to get rid of them... There's already the new Gen4 lights in development. Good example is I bought 3 AI Sol's when they came out and paid $400 each, I ended up selling them two years later for $175 each because the Hydras came out. Being summer time doesn't help either.

Depending on what part of town you're in I'd like the Christmas Wrasse.

Long gone please delete!

Tek*

I'll take the two light, pm me your contact info.

Reeflo... Brian has a Dart in the for sale section, scoop it up he's selling it for cheap.

I have the Aquamaxx s2 on my tank and I'm really happy with it, I'd say I'm not too far from having it maxed out with 200 gallons of water and the amount of coral I have. The s1 should do you just fine. As for controlling the reactor I have a very different view on how to run a reactor but that's for a totally different thread! The only thing my apex does is turn my reactor off in case the tank ph drops below a set ph value. I've seen many tank crashes from people turning their co2 off and on via a controller we can get into that in a different thread. Any quality regulator will do it's job for a long time but I defintely suggest buying a better needle valve.

How big is your tank, actual water volume wise? SPS dominant are you planning an upgrade in the future? A little more info and we can give you some better recommendations!

Here's a good one that talks about the article I linked above http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2483278&highlight=triton As much as RC is known for being a lot of pretentious D Bags at times, there's also a lot of combined knowledge from some very smart professionals in different industries. One of my issues has always been that there is no correction for transit time and for how long it takes for a sample to be tested. A lot of changes can happen in a short amount of time. I'd like to see a comparison to a sample tested directly out of the tank next to a sample of say 7 days transit time or however long it takes for a sample to arrive at their facility and be tested.

I figured you'd be the first one to catch this =) There's some definite issues with this type of testing as well as what to actually do after you've got your results... RC has a couple great discussions with some highly qualified people who work with this type of testing daily with some very valid points to be considered. I'll add more links if anyone is interested.

I keep meaning to post this and I always forget! I have my own opinion and I'm going to allow everyone else to form their own as well but I think some of you might find this interesting. It's quite a bit of reading but well worth it, I can guarantee everyone will learn something from it. http://www.reefsmagazine.com/mag.php?do=wp_post&articleId=159

Nice stuff here... I need to get my hands on another chunk of shades of fall since that was one of the colonies I lost in the upgrade.

Personally I think all the Hanna checkers are junk... If you want a real po4 test, take it into upscales and have them check it on their lab grade Hanna or buy a Hach PO-19. Only other tests I trust are the Red Sea kits and that's because they've proven to always be accurate for me. Always good when you get suspicious readings to have an outside source or a different test kit handy before adding anything to your tank.

Brad or Matt V would be my only guess as to might have it around here...

While it's stupid overpriced my Tunze 3155 hasn't skipped a beat in over 6 years...

Let's move some frags! I've added some forrest fire digi, and a couple other pieces. $30ea 4 for $100 or 8 for $180!

Depends on the corals, if it's sps I'd be concerned about them starting to RTN. Lack of color can be lots of things... get your numbers in order then we can try to figure out the dull colors. Right now you just need to have your chemistry straight so things will live.

Anytime! Definitely get that Alk up if you've got corals, you're in the danger zone at 5.6!

Kent Tech M is an easy way to get your Mag back up... Just a heads up so people that don't know the conversion, you should post your po4 corrected to PPM so people will understand. .8 ppm would be like if a couple people took a dump in your tank lol. For those that don't understand the conversion it's done like this. In this case ---> 8 x 3.066 = 24.528 now divide that by 1000 = .024528 Anyways, keep a close eye on your ph as you raise your alk and do it slowly, no more than 1 - 1.5 dkh per day is what I would recommend but definitely get that back up to a acceptable level.

The only thing you're accomplishing by not using the splash guard is shortening the life of your bulbs and lowering your par.

Frag fail lol... gotta love auto correct! 1, 3. 7, 9, 10 are SOLD all others still available.

Maybe I'm just having a total brain fart here but if you convert 8 ppb to ppm which is the traditional measurement of phosphates that would make it .008 which a checker isn't capable of measuring that low... Your mag is low, which will lead to calcium and alk imbalances, although I don't know if it's necessary low enough to cause that major of an imbalance. Think of the the big three as a teeter totter, ALK on one side and CAL on the other with MAG in the middle, if the MAG get's too low the teeter totter doesn't work properly and you can see what you're seeing. My guess is that you started with low alk when you fired up your reactor... When was the last time you tested and what were the results? I'd raise your mag to 1300 and you could supplement your alk with a buffer, baking soda or kent super buffer or the like to get things back in balance and go from there.

I'd re-test with different kits compare, then come back with your results. Is that .08 or .8 on the phosphate?