750 Gallon Reef, 1200 Gallon System, Join the Craziness!

[aquaman30k]

Found this one after doing a search.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-BLACK-Styrene-24x24-4-pcs-Vacuum-Form-Plastic-/330568362605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf768ea6d

 

It says FDA approved and that they are commonly used in the production of lids for coffee cups. Same company as the other link but this product only seems to be listed via their eBay page.

 

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

[Burningbaal]

Yeah that would be a concern of mine as well but I'm wondering if its the same stuff that's in a few of my older tanks? It looks like the same stuff even down to the ripples on the one side.

 

I'm wondering what's in the plastic that would make it "not food safe"? Any ideas?

 

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here's my (small) contribution: the actual ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadine-Styrene) is perfectly safe

However: sometimes the manufacturer imbeds an anti-algae compound in it (which is dumb if you ask me...it's a black pipe).

 

so, if you can get an msds or hazmat for the material and it does not include anything except Acrylonitrile-Butadine-Styrene, it's good to go. Unfortunately I can't find such info specified on the widgetworks link.

 

one more note: FDA food safe is an exceptionally strict requirement that (usually) costs tens of thousands of dollars to get approved for. they will list things as NOT food safe just because it isn't worth it to them to spend the lawyer and lab fees to get the approval. if it's just ABS, it's fine.

(FYI: I know about the FDA craziness because of a microbiology Bachelor's and the fact that my company is trying to get FDA approval for a drug currently)

[oxx155]

Found this one after doing a search.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-BLACK-Styrene-24x24-4-pcs-Vacuum-Form-Plastic-/330568362605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf768ea6d

 

It says FDA approved and that they are commonly used in the production of lids for coffee cups. Same company as the other link but this product only seems to be listed via their eBay page.

 

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the links. I think I actually found a local company that sells sheets and should be able to give me great feedback if its safe or not. I will update if I get some.

 

here's my (small) contribution: the actual ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadine-Styrene) is perfectly safe

However: sometimes the manufacturer imbeds an anti-algae compound in it (which is dumb if you ask me...it's a black pipe).

 

so, if you can get an msds or hazmat for the material and it does not include anything except Acrylonitrile-Butadine-Styrene, it's good to go. Unfortunately I can't find such info specified on the widgetworks link.

 

one more note: FDA food safe is an exceptionally strict requirement that (usually) costs tens of thousands of dollars to get approved for. they will list things as NOT food safe just because it isn't worth it to them to spend the lawyer and lab fees to get the approval. if it's just ABS, it's fine.

(FYI: I know about the FDA craziness because of a microbiology Bachelor's and the fact that my company is trying to get FDA approval for a drug currently)

 

Thanks for the extra info and clarification. I will remember about the anti-algae compound.

[oxx155]

Countdown has begun! 10:15p.m. 10/25/11 - tank has begun filling, we'll see how long it takes. Also got my crate of salt, 28 bags to start and 7 bags a month, I think I got enough for about 6 months.

 

[wanareef]

Why not just get several pieces of 1/16" extruded acrylic - no leaching of any kind

 

 

batchelor great avatar great burgers, we try to stop by on our drives south - first one is in Redding, CA (laugh) (laugh)

[oxx155]

Why not just get several pieces of 1/16" extruded acrylic - no leaching of any kind

 

 

batchelor great avatar great burgers, we try to stop by on our drives south - first one is in Redding, CA (laugh) (laugh)

 

From whom?

[ThePremiumAquarium]

I can help with that Douglas. Give me a call.

 

edit: I know we chatted about this a bit ago but now that I have a good idea of what you are doing I think I have a guy that can help

[oxx155]

I can help with that Douglas. Give me a call.

 

edit: I know we chatted about this a bit ago but now that I have a good idea of what you are doing I think I have a guy that can help

 

I will get exact measurements to you and we'll chat.

[oxx155]

I was thinking tonight (uh-oh, I know) - I have 3 Ecotech MP40's on each end. I was wondering about replacing the back two with Tunze Waveboxes and put the two MP40's on the back of the tank shooting forward. Multiple reasons;

1. I think the Tunze Waveboxes will provide nice big flows that can keep detritus moving away from the back and either up towards the overflows or back towards the front where there is more flow.

2. I think with 48" front to back that pumps shooting forward would provide some extra "random" flow.

I guess I worry that;

1. I am just overthinking things

2. My Apex can't properly control the Waveboxes

 

Anyone have any thoughts?

[ThePremiumAquarium]

Maybe do a couple of MP60's. You could have all of your ecotechs sinked up to do a wave across the tank can't you? Maybe play with the mp40s you have and see if you can create a wave with them and then add more accordingly. I like the idea of the waveboxes too I just think you can probably get away with ecotechs doing the same thing and then your controller would have no problem sinking everything. The idea for two on the back wall isn't bad either accept that any significant cross flow would probably limit or kill the wave created by either the ecotechs or the waveboxes.

[Kshack]

I went to a lecture by Jake Adams on flow and he had some interesting points.

Corals need flow in order to exchange gases and collect food. He did some experiments and the number you are looking for is 20cm per sec water movement (easily measured by watching a particle float by). He likes the Gyre flow concept, NOT random flow (wastes too much energy). Concept is simple...put your hand is a tub or large bowl. Move in a circle to get the water moving, then see how little energy it takes to keep the water moving. If flow is created in only one direction the corals will grow at an angle, so reversing the flow every 10-30 minutes is desirable.

I have two MP60 on my 250 gal tank set at about 80% (you nay need 4...that is one big tank). One goes on to start the water moving, then after about 10 minutes the other kicks in reversing the flow. This is how he set up that 1200 gal tank in Denver. This is also why Ecotec changed their program capabilities on the MP60. Before you could only get a max of 1 minute ramp up, but Jake convinced them to change that.

[oxx155]

Maybe do a couple of MP60's. You could have all of your ecotechs sinked up to do a wave across the tank can't you? Maybe play with the mp40s you have and see if you can create a wave with them and then add more accordingly. I like the idea of the waveboxes too I just think you can probably get away with ecotechs doing the same thing and then your controller would have no problem sinking everything. The idea for two on the back wall isn't bad either accept that any significant cross flow would probably limit or kill the wave created by either the ecotechs or the waveboxes.

 

I went to a lecture by Jake Adams on flow and he had some interesting points.

Corals need flow in order to exchange gases and collect food. He did some experiments and the number you are looking for is 20cm per sec water movement (easily measured by watching a particle float by). He likes the Gyre flow concept, NOT random flow (wastes too much energy). Concept is simple...put your hand is a tub or large bowl. Move in a circle to get the water moving, then see how little energy it takes to keep the water moving. If flow is created in only one direction the corals will grow at an angle, so reversing the flow every 10-30 minutes is desirable.

I have two MP60 on my 250 gal tank set at about 80% (you nay need 4...that is one big tank). One goes on to start the water moving, then after about 10 minutes the other kicks in reversing the flow. This is how he set up that 1200 gal tank in Denver. This is also why Ecotec changed their program capabilities on the MP60. Before you could only get a max of 1 minute ramp up, but Jake convinced them to change that.

 

Thanks to both of you, I think I will stick with the EcoTech's and see how they do. I still have the 5 SeaSwirls also, so it should be enough.

[oxx155]

Finished the Captive Fuge (cryptic zone)

 

[h2odvl]

looking good

[city hunter]

I was just curious, how thick is that glass? I Looked at a picture of it and it seemed pretty green. I havent looked at any kind of euro clear style tank in a long time, but I thought it was clearer than that. This is all curiousity as I do want a starfire tank one of these days. I really like the clear glass over acrylic.

[oxx155]

I was just curious' date=' how thick is that glass? I Looked at a picture of it and it seemed pretty green. I havent looked at any kind of euro clear style tank in a long time, but I thought it was clearer than that. This is all curiousity as I do want a starfire tank one of these days. I really like the clear glass over acrylic.[/quote']

 

The glass is 3/4" thick. It will clear up once the lights are on and provides good lighting from the back. The standard lighting just doesn't do the glass justice. I will definitely post pics once the lighting goes up and you'll see the difference.

[oxx155]

Tank is now running. Finished filling after 6 days (took a while for the RODI to really kick in). Its a little overwhelming to see that much water and how much havoc it could cause, but after the pump has been running for 2 days I am feeling much better. So far I have used 28 bags of salt and I am sure it will be a few more before I am at 1.025. Equipment is going into place and I am replacing some old stuff and trying some new things out, pretty excited to see it all work as it should. The Apex is definitely in for one hell of a test, I am going to be putting it through its paces.

 

 

I will have to do a video of the ripple effect I am getting through the Deep Sand Bed area, its really cool looking.

[oxx155]

For those that are curious about the "compartments" of my sump system.

 

1. Tank drains into two 24" long by 12" deep (6" width) overflow boxes that have three 2" drain pipes in each

2. It all drains into a 4" pipe that snakes around the walls over to the start of the sump system

3. The 4" pipe drains into 24"x6" section

4. The above section overflows into a 24"x24" section containing nine filter socks and filter pad over the top of them

5. The water flows down through the socks and into another 24"x24" section that contains the protein skimmer

6. The above section overflows into a 24"x36" section containing an 8" Deep Sand Bed and will be home to about 30 Mangroves

7. The above section overflows into a 24"x6" section containing four 2" bulkheads leading into the next part the of the sump (the turn of the L shape)

8. The next section is 24"x24" that will just contain Chaeto free tumbling (although part of it is egg crated off for a few submerged pumps that will feed the Carbon, Phosphate, and Ozone Reactors)

9. The above section overflows into a 24"x24" section containing about 150 pounds of live rock and is completely blacked out for a cryptic zone

10. The above section flows into a couple weirs to keep all bubbles out of the last section

11. The last section is 24"x18" containing the heaters and bulkheads for the pumps to pull their water.

By the end there should be absolutely no bubbles or particles flowing back into the main tank.

So far I am extremely pleased how it turned out and I hope it encourages others to get a little more creative with sump design.

[attaboy]

Questions

 

I was debating between 30" and 34" high on the tank I'm designing. Do you have thoughts? Would you go a bit bigger or is it a major pain?

 

Also, how are you dealing with humidity?

[oxx155]

double post

[oxx155]

I was debating between 30" and 34" high on the tank I'm designing. Do you have thoughts? Would you go a bit bigger or is it a major pain?

 

Also, how are you dealing with humidity?

 

I am very happy with 30", it seems very workable (even though I haven't officially put anything in yet), but 34" might be just a little high. Typical grippers can come in sizes up to 30", so anything over that you are going to get wet, and lighting starts to become a big issue when going over 30". Just my two cents. Oh, and price to go to 34" tall vs. 30" would be quite the jump from my quotes.

I am extremely happy with the size of my tank and I think I got just the right size.

As far as humidity I have two large exhaust fans that vent outside and one exhaust fan that pulls in fresh air from outside. The entire room is sealed in a material similar to shower surround (I don't know the name off the top of my head) and no moisture can leak into the walls or ceiling or another room, its pretty self contained. The walls are also washable, so if I start to get crud on them or staining I can wash them down. The room's air can be exchanged completely in about 30 seconds (maybe less). I will probably have it on a timer where the air is exchanged every 10 minutes throughout the day.

[Gabe]

Hey Douglas, looking great. The pics realy help us see the good ideas that are all over this build.

I do have a concern... The strut straps that are directly over the sump area will likely rust. The metal is plated, but they usualy still rust at the contact points. (mainly at the tightening hardware) I know those straps are available in stainless, shouldn't be too hard to find.

Keep the pics comming

[oxx155]

Hey Douglas, looking great. The pics realy help us see the good ideas that are all over this build.

I do have a concern... The strut straps that are directly over the sump area will likely rust. The metal is plated, but they usualy still rust at the contact points. (mainly at the tightening hardware) I know those straps are available in stainless, shouldn't be too hard to find.

Keep the pics comming

 

It is a possible concern, but I really think it will take a while before they rust enough to be a problem, and they are very visible, so if I see any issues I can easily change out the clamp.

But, I appreciate the advise and I may check into the stainless steel option and if its not incredibly expensive it may be worth the change.

[Jeramy]

FRP fiberglass reinforced plastic

[oxx155]

FRP fiberglass reinforced plastic

 

For? I think I missed something.