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Burningbaal

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Burningbaal last won the day on March 7 2020

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About Burningbaal

  • Birthday 10/20/1985

core_pfieldgroups_99

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    Bothell, WA

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Zoanthid

Zoanthid (10/15)

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  1. So sad 🥺 A battery backup for one pump and heating tank water on a gas stove maybe. You can pull a gallon (measure carefully) and heat it to 10 degrees above the tank temp, topup with RODI to a gallon and pour it in. Then pull another gallon and repeat until the tank is 78. Doing this with 1 of 30 gallons at a time leads to minimal risk except touching your pan. If you have a big enough pan to hold tap water at 100 degrees, you can use a plastic bag of tank water and float it. Or float bags of hot tap water in the tank. Also: a generator. I'm planning to buy a UPS and generator very soon so the UPS can keep it going while I turn on the geny
  2. I had great success with berghia in my fuge. I kinda think if you can get the overflow to fill with standing water for an hour or so (obviously with the return off), they can find a home. Then let it drain and turn on the return pump.
  3. sounds like you may have excess organic carbon in your reef, but presumably you aren't dosing vodka/sugar/vinegar/NoPox, right? Also, as MReef20 says, inescapably low NO3 and PO4 seems to usually be in tanks started from dry rock, is that you? you can run an ugly airstone to make sure the bloom doesn't consume the oxygen, but you might even try turning the skimmer off for a week or two. It's not helping if your nutrients are really non-detect. You might as well turn it off until you can detect one or the other. I'd try turning it off for a week and see if it's measurable. If both are still non-detect, leave it off another week. If you have a weir or an airstone, that'll provide all the gas exchange you can get. You could try an old school canister filter with a 1 micron pleated filter, but that's probably way more trouble than it's worth
  4. What size tank? What size tang? How much water flow? What other fish? Any changes or livestock additions?
  5. salinity probes are dramatically effected by stray voltage (including induced voltage from nearby fixtures like lights, even lights in the room), but also from algae buildup and trapped air bubbles. I'd try to clean it real well and if that doesn't work, try switching off equipment and see if it shifts. Anything new turned on recently?
  6. sounds like something's wrong for sure. have you tried it in a non-gfci circuit? I'd wonder if QC missed something on the pump though... And you can try putting a kill-a-watt in front of it too see what it's actually drawing. and I'd try a super low setting too, like 5% disclaimer: I've never touched an abyzz pump, so I am far from an expert
  7. I've been meaning to get back to Saltwater City in Bellevue, they usually have some mollies in their copper tanks they've already acclimated. You might check stores around you, especially one that has QT tanks anyways. It's not a whole lot more work for them to acclimate while they're doing QT. I think the last time I bought one it was like $5 or something. Maybe high for a mollie, but dirt cheap for one that's been acclimated and for any SW fish...let alone one that's spent a month in copper
  8. 10 small/med fish in that big of a tank was probably decently okay. The giant risk is if you have more or larger fish in there. The oxygen will dissolve into the water at an okay rate, but if there's a little too much fish mass (or inverts/other oxygen consumers), it can get rough fast. Your reef might be okay as is, but with more or larger inhabitants, it could have been very different. That said, I think the oxygen fears are a tad overrated and in our climate, I'd be more concerned about heat. The problem there is a heater will drain a battery REALLY fast, so you really have to get a generator going. A powerhead, or even small dc return pump, can last a long time on a normal battery backup
  9. That's where I knew what the problem was Glad you're getting it under control! I have watched this lesson happen too many times to try kalk in my ato. If I ever try it, it'll be like your original plan; a dedicated pump with ample protections in place regarding timing and level sensors, etc.
  10. might take you up on that if you were local...good luck
  11. Parallel to the joist is never ideal. I'd consider some cross members to neighboring joists as well
  12. How big is the tank? I've been wondering about a little heirem in the 60/80 cube I'm planning.
  13. $500 is pretty typical IME to get a structural engineer to give you the time of day. Sort of how the plumber won't show up unless he's getting $150. a 100 gallon tank's setup is probably around a thousand pounds as a rule of thumb. The water's about 8.5 lbs/gallon, the rock and sand and glass are more, but there is empty space, etc etc. that's not an extraordinary weight, so it's probably not much to panic about. here's how I'd make the decision (note: lots of STEM education and critical thinking skills, but not a structural engineer): * figure out which way the joists are running and make sure you're not setting its 4' along a stud, but across multiple. It should end up essentially across kind of 3 joists. it might actually touch 4 joists, or very nearly so. This spreads the weight VERY effectively, so no one joist has to bear the weight. The joist will have not worry holding 250 pounds. You can get 4-5 big guys to stand belly to back on the second floor without a big deal, and if they're each on their own joist, they can jump in unison and it's fine. * make sure there's real structure underneath. You don't want a big french door (like to a den/office) below the tank, that means the header is bearing the tank's weight, which is wasn't designed for. if the tank is near a wall that also has a wall on the first floor, you'll be fine. If what's below it is a big opening like between the kitchen and dining, but you can see a lump running along the ceiling (under the tank), that's a big structural beam which will be just fine. That's my $0.02
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