Eatfrenchfries

Sweet spot from feedback: dosing every other day. <*food for thought: once PNSB is established in your tank it should produce provided it has the necessary reactants. The limiting factor would be the type of organics your system has to keep the PNSB blooming. Possibly adding additional PNS Bacteria is not beneficial but rather the nutrient media it comes with is. Issue is the nutrient media is an excellent fertilizer for other microbes if not already spoken for. Even other bacteria products in the field could be contributing more from the nutrients it adds rather than the bacteria themselves once "seeded">

Depends on what your agenda is. For feeding I would suggest daily. For colonizing your tank: large dose weekly (2-5x usual dose) skimmer off, uv off. Gutloading: soak fish food in pnsb whenever you'd like to give your fish a boost (probiotic) Treating nuisances: dose every 3 days. *Consistency is key above all* Personally, I feed my zooplanktom cultures PNSB daily. Once a week I add 10floz per 5gallons to keep things clean (usually after my phyto water change). For a reef I alternate phyto and pnsb each day. If I am trying to move nutrients then I dose with the skimmer off for during day and on at night. Skimmer will work harder during this time.

It is best stored at room temperature in a spot that does not get too much light. It will continue to "grow" this way. It can be refrigerated to prolong its shelf life. The colder temperature will stop any growth/decay. Shelf life: room temp- up to 1 year from date packaged. Possibly longer if kept in ideal conditions. *bacteria products stored in the fridge tend to act a bit slower since they seem to get themselves back to health before resuming function*

Starting to get my next batch of PNSB ready for the next meet. Looking to get a head count to see how much culture media needs to be prepared. Batches take 20 - 30 days for proper incubation. PNSB -food for bacterivores (inverts,corals) + rich in carotenoids and B vitamins -water clarifier (reduce organics) -nutrient export (Waste consumed can be recycled as food for filter feed or exported via skim/floss) -bacterial competitor (competes with vibrio, cyano, algae, and dinos for space) caption: 16oz bottle of PNSB caption: 1 Gallon size Species: confirmed Rhodopseudomonas palustris , suspected Rhodospirillum rubrum and Rhodobacter sphaeroides Location: Raleigh Hills, OR Price: $1 per fluid ounce / *$100 for 1 gallon (128oz)* Dosage: 1mL treats 5 gallons, 16oz treats 2,365 gallons, 1 gallon treats 18,920 gallons Preorder ends: 11/12 Bacteria available for pickup: starting 12/10 (meetup at Holiday party?)

Mainly looking for larger volume beakers and flasks. Maybe a glass carboy or two. Lids are nice but not needed Also used magnetic stirrers. Based in Portland but willing to drive

Making some spooky punch for the meeting. Starter culture: suspected rhodobacter, started when we announced this meeting. finished product grown on salts Finished product is dark brown/red. Smells delicious.

@obrien.david.j however many is feasible. It's for a 20G zooplankton display that I am beginning to feed pyrocystis fusiformis weekly. Experimenting with what will eat these dinos and someone recommended brittle stars. I am planning a trip to the coast to visit some hatcheries for skeleton shrimp to see if I can culture them for this display as well. If I can establish a recurring algae bloom in the display then I am going to begin feeding my opae ula display as well which has a reactor for passive phyto production. The water is stagnant with flow coming in occasionally when airbubbles build up in a trap.

Does anyone have these in the Portland area? looking for a few specimens to fill in a bioluminescent display.

Excited to see everyone

Duct tape and tweezers. Vinegar soak for tough to remove spines. Everclear works too It largely depends on the type of bristleworm.

How many lbs do you need? I have some live from Florida as well as the name brand product.

Ammonia bicarbonate all the way. It's just hard to accurately track in system with test kits and all the organisms processing it.

The 2 liter soda bottle is just how I keep the culture. The only circulation is when I harvest 1/5 phyto and replace with RODI. This display bottle is place under T5s. My bulk culture is suspended via shake plate. The environment this algae comes from regularly dries up so making it rain is the easiest way to suspend the algae

A friend of mine came to visit recently and decided to share his 'pretty in pink' phytoplankton with me. Glad to say I got it dialed in. Planning to up production and add it to the blend. See what happens. dunaliella salina is a extremophile. It lives in salt pools where the salinity can be 4x that of seawater. It does not have much of a cell wall to help maintain osmotic pressure in changing saline environments. It produces an excess of beta carotene (orange pigment) to make up the difference and shield the cell from changing light levels. It is believed that the pink hue comes from bacteria/archaea associated with dunaliella. Grown in a tumble has shown weak pink coloration. Stagnant water with heat from a light source has proved to be a much better option. Most likely the biofilm that normally develops in stagnant water is being chewed up by bubbles. - 5 to 20 micron - high in beta-carotene - more salt equals more pink - high nutrient uptake gives potential for a high yield feed. - used in brine shrimp cultivation

20231008_200603.mp4 (Image: Apocyclops in passive harvester) *Halloween Special 10/12 - 10/31 4 bottles for $50 + red ogo clump*

Strombus maculatus?

Can I call dibs?

20230913_155342.mp4 -home grown in freshwater. -used to induce spawning behavior in fish. -gutloaded with Purple Non Sulhpur Bacteria and plant matter. Location: Raleigh Hills Price: $3.00 per ounce *limited quantity. Stock replenishes 3-4 weeks.

Just a thought. Possibly consider carbon dosing to promote growth of bacteria during this time. Using vodka, vinegar, or sugar will promote NO3/PO4 reducing bacteria which are beneficial but not needed for this. Focus on something with carbohydrates such as molasses or sweet potato. The reason for blackstrap is that not every organism is capable of processing it so that helps narrow down what can use it in aquaria. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7241270/#:~:text=Biofloc has probiotic bacteria that,media 19%2C 21%2C 30. Bacteria that consume organic matter and bind to aggregate would be ideal. Organic matter is rich in all sorts of nutrients (aminos, proteins) formed by coral mucus + aggregate making it easy to use. It is used by all sorts of bacteria but the variance depends on how they can assimilate it. Your sand bed is host to most of the organic matter and bacteria strains in your aquaria. Photosynthetic activity in a sand bed can match your live rock easily. Looks can be quite decieving. SPS coral are known bacteriovores with some less likely to focus on actively suspension feeding and more by assimilation. this means they are more to take in pelagic bacteria. Cutting off the food source in your sand bed by promoting another bacteria whether it be beneficial or neutral would be a better alternative. Acrobacter enjoys proteins plant/animal proteins but isn't that capable of breaking down complex chains. Gram negative bacteria tend to be hard to replace after antibiotic treatments. Bacteria Floc Method: -1/2 cup carbon source (carbohydrate heavy, minimize sulphur) -15 cups hot water -5 tbsp of reef salt - 1/2 cup PNSB can be used to seed an inital culture for mixed result. Not viable for future batches. Mix in 1 gallon container. Affix bubbler the same way as phytoplankton and place under a strong light. Incubation takes 20 - 40 days. Max strength between 30 - 45 days 1mL per 50gallons. *do not use yeast for any reason or you will feed nuisances* *export of organics achieved by water changes + skimmer.

I use a company called Aquascape to procure nets with different hole sizes. Sometimes I use media bags instead of nets for catching fish. My Nyos magnetic fish trap is currently being borrowed but I can send it your way if it'll help.

Price: $15 (trades are welcome) Size: 16oz Location: Raleigh Hills VID_32630906_040826_821.mp4 (image: tig pods do well in warm weather) Individual: Tigriopus Tisbe Apocyclops Grammarus Blend: Tigriopus Tisbe Apocyclops Parvocalanus Euterpina Pseudodiaptomus *direct message for bulk + questions

Day 14/28 for Rhodobacter s. -yellow is the color of the enrichment media with b vitamins, microalgae trace, pasteurized copepod molts (chitin) + phytoplankton cells (cellulose) Day 22/28 -8 days for the bacteria to consume and fill the entire culture vessel. -greenish white snot is a layer of dead Phyto/Pods in my bulk grow out -rusty film strip on the right is a PNSB film that developed roughly around the same time I was due to clean the container out -reduced turbidity could be from the bacteria taking it into the biofilm -pods fed a mixture of PNSB + Phyto -no worry about disturbing the anoxic mulm layer because the PNSB won't suck the remaining oxygen out of the water while still recycling the mulm for future pod food -terrible picture of PNSB colonizing glass in a refugium lit by T5s -biofilm established on glass because I lack a sand bed. It will find a niche to survive or create it's own. -the film does not spread onto living organisms. It will only take unoccupied real estate and can be eaten by CUC -biofilm is important as it represents not just PNSB colonization but the archaea that come with it.

I agree that they look like white parasitic copepods. Red bugs are tegastes acroporanus. Unsure if the white or black bugs have been identified. Milybemycin oxime (Interceptor), Ivermectin (Iverhart), and Lufenuron (Setinel) will do the trick. All will be harmful to anything that molts.

I have a few different types in Raleigh Hills.