DaveZ

That would be awesome! I mean, I don’t regularly vacuum my sand bed anyways as it’s quite packed with coral. So not being able to really get a good gravel vacc on it is really the challenge. I would need a really small diameter tube in order to get to the sand, but then dealing with too fast of a siphon when it’s too small a diameter and it just ends up sucking up all the sand anyways rather than sifting. My process thus far I usually replace portions of the sandbed every 6 months. I just suck out a whole section (especially where the fish sleep) and replace it with brand new sand in that section. I am 95% sure my diatoms are related to fish waste collecting in it. So if there is a better way to outcompete the diatoms naturally, I’m all for it. I haven’t dealt with Dino’s since my first year of feeding. I tend to keep pretty balanced tanks and have set routines for my systems that I’m pretty consistent with. One of the benefits from working remotely for a tech company and my office is my tank room in the detached garage. So I’m just right there all the time to be able to perform the necessary maintenance quickly and efficiently without worrying about rogue spills, so I go fast. I am not into the biology aspect and the microfauna is a whole new world for me. So I’m always open to learning more and getting some of these cultures to see how this can help improve upon an already solid foundation.

Thank Kim! Algae and Dino’s are an interesting aspect because I measure it against time and effort it takes to deal with vs the ideal span of the system running. So although I can for sure see people’s frustration with it, if it’s a system I plan on having for 10+ years, a 3 month algae battle is relatively small time. A couple weeks for Dino’s is for sure frustrating but keeping it in perspective of longevity of the system is helpful. Full transparency I have only dealt with Dino’s once in over 9 systems I’ve setup. And advice from both Jeff and Bryan at reef box helped me: you need more nutrient balance. So Jeff said to do phyto dosing and Bryan said to add more fish. I did both without changing any maintenance routine and Dino’s was gone in a few days. I will always try natural remedies before chemical (with the only exception being cyano and chemi-clean). Algae’s, I’ve seen Brightwell Microbacter Clean work wonders. I usually give the system a month to see if it will work its way out. Just be really good about maintenance in that time. But if it doesn’t have change, I start doing recommended dosing of Clean and I’ve seen it yet cleaned up great. Granted in new systems (under 6 months old), I don’t stress about any algae. Getting algae is a natural part of the tank settling in. I’ll manually remove it with water changes but not stress on it much. The two things that the Nuvo has that I can never seem to get rid of and have had to learn to live with: bubble algae and diatoms. I hate bubble algae but nothing works for me and I’ve tried it all. So I just manually remove when it starts encroaching on coral. Eventually there will hopefully be zero visible rock showing so no room for the bubble algae to take hold. Diatoms on the sand, I just don’t know. It comes and goes all the time. I’ve never been a great at keeping a pristine sand bed. So there’s always room for everyone to learn and grow. 👍

Sure thing. I can always do a video showcasing more in-depth aspects. But here’s a quick rundown: Lighting: Nanobox Quad LED (discontinued), AliExpress PopularGrow LED strip (custom spectrum of my own design I worked with the manufacturer). Pumps: 2 powerhead wavemakers - Jebao SLW 10 (always on 100%) and a Jebao SLW20 (pulse mode 75%). Return pump is a basic Sicce Syncra 1.5. Heater: Ehiem set to 80° but master controlled by standard Inkbird set to 79°. Also a simple triple aquarium cooling fan from Amazon. Dosing: 2 Kamoer X1s using ESV B-ionic. If there are real specifics you or anyone else would want to know about, I’d love to hear what you’re hoping to see. Or specifics you would like to get my ideas on. I like talking and discussing more than writing so making videos would always be preferable medium to share. Plus I have always liked seeing real proof of the tank than someone just getting one good picture of it when it’s at its peak.

Thanks @Abarger16! It’s been a long process. Wish I would have vloged the process but it was my first tank I ever setup. I am personally not a huge fan of build threads as it just takes so much time to write out for what feels like little amount of information shared. not sure if we are allowed to upload videos on the forum but I’m always open to making a video walkthrough talking about the system. What would be the main things you’d want to know about it?

Updated picture of the Nuvo 20 today. I know a few of you have gotten to see this in person when coming over to get coral or berghie’s but figured I’d share with the group. For those who say you cannot have an awesome mixed reef nano tank with tons of acros, I beg to differ. Tank is going on 6 years old and been through lots of different iteration of corals kept but going strong as a solid sps dominated mixed reef. I’m open for any questions people might have on the system but here are a few key points to the system and philosophy: 1. Keep nano tanks simple. The only mechanical filtration on this tank is using two chemi-pure blue nano packs. Just water, sand, rock, lights, flow, heater & cooling fan. No controllers, just using a simple wifi controlled power strip (6 wifi, 6 always on). Using ESV B-ionic for 2 part. Consistent water changes ever week to 2 weeks. 2. Patience is key. There’s a reason why those who hit 5+ years in the hobby say this over and over. This tank does not look like this over night. You measure tank success by 3 month, 6 month and yearly intervals. This shouldn’t be a week by week hobby. 3. (nano tank specific) Don’t have many fish. If you want a jam packed acro nano, you cannot have fish pooping all over the place and sky high nutrients. Nutrient control is the most challenging aspect of a nano in general. If you want acros in a nano, give up having many fish. Just 3 small fish in here: clown, Starcki damsel, small Mandarin Goby.

I would first start with: What’s the reason why you need the calcium reactor? There should ideally be a purpose for any system change and calcium reactors have benefits and drawbacks. If nothing is known about this, what makes you want to get one? I would suggest going on YouTube and searching Calcium Reactor. I wont spend the next half hour writing all of this out when there’s already better and more succinct resources available for you that are a simple search from your finger tips. There are tons of great resources both video (or written via Google if you prefer) that can give you all the information you need to know. What I hope to help with is the idea of reef methods to replenish major element uptake from corals and picking the right one for you. With how expensive the equipment is for running a calcium reactor, this only becomes cost effective if you have a slammed SPS tank and have very high consumption demands of your current method of 2 part (cheaper alternative methods using kalk is coming back into popularity as well). So if you’re into a mixed reef with some sps and do mainly LPS and softies, there’s no need for a calcium reactor. Ultimately it’s the mentality of buying into a method hype and constantly switching for the sake of trying something new that inhibits long term tank stability and ultimately its success. I am all for people learning about methods for the sake of educating themselves in what’s available but I’d suggest to only incorporate new methods into a system if there is a problem you are trying to solve.

Interested in the Reef Octopus if it’s the 110sss…if you want to part out. But I totally get wanting to sell as a complete package.

Well done, Richard @islandVib3s

@Haddibabby Here is a simple website I put together that will showcase what other stuff there is and corals that can be cut to order: https://blackflagcorals.regfox.com/available-coral-list

Pack 1 & Pack 3 - sold. (I can get more of pack 3 as well if still desired)

Hey all. Time for me to move some frags and mini-colonies that have been growing out for awhile. Located in Vancouver WA right off I5 and 500. Mini-colonies: for those wanting some larger pieces that have a few years of growing out. Prices are negotiable as there’s no real examples of what the cost should be. (2x) -GB Blue Thunder Acropora (1x) -Malaysian green Acropora (1x) -Green Favia? Got this back in the day from Ocean in a Box and that’s what I was told it was. (1x) -JF BB Favia -Also have few larger chunks of Zoas for anyone looking for a ready made zoa garden of staple pieces. Frag Packs: Sold - Pack 1: $100 - Pink Lemonade, GB Blue Thunder, Tierra del Fuego, PCR, Neptune Fruity Pebbles, Snail Slime Pack 2: $100 - Pink Lemonade, GB Blue Thunder, Tierra del Fuego, PCR, Neptune Fruity Pebbles, Snail Slime Sold - Pack 3: $60 - JF Bazzaro cyphastria, JF Jack-O-Lantern, JF BB Favia, Meteor Shower cyphastria. Single Frags: -plenty of single frags of Acros, Torches Zoas also available. Too many to get pictures of everything. Every coral is available until it’s picked up. First to come get it, gets it. Holds only if $$$ is paid upfront. I accept cash or most standard money sharing apps (Venmo, cash app, etc).

Who needs Berghia Nudibranchs to kill off that aiptasia problem? I’ve got a fair amount that are juvenile to adult size ready to go. Available in packs of 5 for $75. Located in Vancouver WA. ***More available than pictured.***

Ya the wrasses are a mixed bag with the berghies. Because the Berghies live deep within the rocks during daylight (compared to Monti nudibranchs whom live on coral and are easily accessible to wrasses) I’ve had plenty of people with wrasses get them from me and say it worked perfectly. I have to pick out the Berghies at around midnight even from my farm where there are zero predators because they cannot be found even during natural light . I just tell everyone to introduce them to the tank hours after lights are out and all the wrasses are asleep. The ones that don’t have success are the ones who don’t follow that advice.

I’m going to have 10+ Berghia nudibranchs big enough to sell here in the next week. The Berghies are the only totally coral safe method to use for demolishing the aiptasia. Shoot me a DM if you’re interested.

I have a coral beauty and I’d say the fish is closer to 3” than 4”. Got it from a tank tear down and it’s been hanging with a Foxface. Shoot me a DM if interested.

Hey all, Finally got the 250g sps system setup and I’ve outgrown my 32g brute cans for water changes. Anyone out there have any old 55g brute cans laying around? Shoot me price or if you’re open for trading for coral

Cool. I’d say wait for that to get big and it’s a solid showpiece.

Feels like you’ve already got a show piece on the sand bed with the carpet nem…or is that a massive toadstool? But I’d say go with a space invader pectina on the opposite side to contrast the greens and to make some of those secondary colors of the mushrooms pop. Pic of mine below for reference.

Oh phew….I am glad I misread that and said something. I’ll make sure to get the tickets in Pre-sale because this sounds awesome.

…coral show on Mothers Day 😬 I would have loved to go but sorry I’m going to have to miss it.

Thanks Sal! Let’s link up. I owe you one of the slimer frags already anyways.

Hey all, I have the 300w Viparspectra that I have fully custom modded LeDs for my own spectrum. It’s an awesome light I want to use over a frag tank but one of the LED drivers died on me. I cannot seem to find just the driver anywhere online. Anyone have a black box sitting around they don’t care for at all that I could take off your hands to get the driver from it? In case you’re wondering the driver is model : LT-2G-B3856W-ZN-J. I’m guessing all these black boxes use the same one - or at the very least the same ratings for voltage and mA. Donations appreciated but willing to buy or trade some coral for the light if that works

Ya mate, that would be awesome! I’ll shoot you a DM.

That’s a nice one! How much par is that one under?

@islandVib3ssorry to hear this Richard! That’s gutting mate. Once you get the tank back on track hit me up and we can help replace a lot of what you lost. I’ll do all I can to keep the prices as low as possible.