MVPaquatics

Awesome! I think I am going to go to the expo. I might go with the guys from The Oregon Aquarium, they are looking for a massive iguana for the new aquarium. Always looking for good deals, new products and ideas, as well as meeting new people Please do ask any questions! I have always wanted to do a write up on how I built my numerous vivariums but it is very time consuming! Check out dendroboard.com. It is pretty much reef central for frogs. But like anything internet wise, look for tried and true methods when venturing into a hobby, get a baseline, then customize (thats my advice anyways). Like fish these can be spendy little buggers. I have 4 species now (16 frogs total). Just got rid of 6. Probably wanting to get rid of two more (golden mantella and pumilio)

Not from me...I cant

GFO, light feeding and frequent water changes are my methods.

That is pretty sweet!

Values seemed to have dropped like evrerthing else Rare, high quality, or signed ones can still fetch a decent price but the middle ground seemed to have dropped off. It takes a lot of time to go through so many cards like that but may be worth it if there is a special one in there.

Thought you sold that bad boy? He back out? Dont you hate fish flakes?! Haha. Did you end up with a controller? Sometimes a downsizing can be nice, get to condense all the good stuff and renew

There really isnt that much markup on $70. But yeah, i would just go new at that point. Maybe a LFS will knock some $ off if you get the auto topoff too. You like your controller? I get a lot of questions on them but still havent made the move

So true! You would have a hard time listing all your tanks let alone the corals in them

If you work something out via photos with badxgillen, i would be more than happy to transport for you. I go down and back on tuesdays

Still have it? Any holes drilled?

If I understand correctly? You are going about 1/5 the amount the instructions said? this is because you arent trying to remove them all just limit the nutrients? sounds like a good plan

I hear you on the GFO cost thing...its crazy! Your feeding style is one that is shared by many of my clients. I am very interested to see how it works. They want spotless tanks, flawless corals, but want to feed a ton! It does lead to crazy water change schedules, which gets costly. The one downfall I would have is only getting to visit these tanks weekly at best. I would need a tried-and-true method. I hope you find it! But be careful, I know you are, cuz I have heard about, and seen, your bank of corals! on a side note how you like the skimmer? I was thinking of getting the same one for a large tank build...probably around your gallonage. The one thing I am wary of is if they are finiky to dail in and dont do well with changes (putting your hand in the water, water changes, etc). Like I said about weekly visits, I need dependability, even if it sacrifices a little performance.

that article has no sources, no citations, no proof. That is what an internet search gets. The author (whoever that is) compares it to dolphins and whales...wow! He brings up 170 million years ago, what happened to the previous 200-250 million before that? HE EVEN SAYS HE DOESNT KNOW! Science is conservative. Most all life started in the ocean, why would fish be different? They try to claim mass extinctions, which did occur, but to say that the freshwater and land areas where unaffected at this time is just crazy. The freshwater and land habitats were barely even beginning their diversification, at this point in time. Everything I stated in my post was scientific fact. PS. ick arent crustaceans. People always seem to take offense to being corrected...its nothing personal.

Ill watch this, it seems like some educated people with higher risk tanks, it has the best shot at some good answers One thing I am curious is what made you look into it? The test results? Or is something looking funny? I guess I am wondering if this a preventative thing? or are you looking to fix something? Does the increased nitrate/phosphate look like it is doing damage or are you just trying to stop it from getting worse

give me a call frank if you need a hand...there is simply too much to write!

Running tap water through an RO will have minimal effect of pH directly. Portland area tap is usually around 7.2ish. Pure water is 7.0. It is more about the purity, and general and carbonate hardness. RO water is too pure to sustain almost all life (they have found some bacteria that will live in PURE water). There is almost nothing to buffer the water. This can kill the fish in a number of ways. Firstly, the osmotic rush into the fish would probably kill it. If that didn’t, the drastic pH swings that would happen sure would. I use RO water in freshwater tanks for a number of applications. For high end, very specific, tank (planted/discus) etc with KENT RO RIGHT ADDED. I also use it to top off evaporated water. Only pure water (for the most part) evaporates. If you have a freshwater tank filled with tap water, and you never change the water, but only add top-off water from the tap, the general hardness (cal/mag ions etc.) will steadily climb. By adding pure freshwater (RO), you keep these parameters stable. It can also be used to lower hardness, and sometimes pH slightly. I also use it to stimulate breeding from certain freshwater fish...many tropical fish are stimulated to breed by the rainy season. Heavy rains in the tropics lowers hardness, and water temps, and this is an indicator to breed for many fish. I will sometimes do a large (20-30%) water change with RO water to replicate a large rain. The cooler temps and lowered hardness provide seasonality to the tank. If you are on a well, using RO water and KENT RO RIGHT to reconstitute minerals will absolutely give you maximum control over your inhabitants

The ancestors of all bony fish (osteichtyes) are actually probably ostracoderms (400-500 million years ago). They branched into jawed (gnathostomes) and jawless fishes (agnatha - only hagfish and lampreys still extant). Jawed fish split into osteichythes (bony fish) and chondrichythes (cartilaginous fish). Osteichythes further expanded into sarcopterygians (lobe-finned fish) and actinopterygians (ray-finned fish). The majority of this took place in the ocean, not freshwater. Ich also has different species. Freshwater ich is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, while saltwater ich is Cryptocaryon irritans. They are totally different but just act in similar ways...I don't believe they can move around (IE if you have freshwater ich, your saltwater fish should be fine). Dips kill the ich purely by osmosis. The pH effect is (or should be) very minimal (if you used pH to kill, it would kill the fish too). We use osmosis to our advantage here. By adding a marine fish to freshwater, you are essentially pumping both animals (ich and fish) full of freshwater (osmosis causes the water to rush into the fish/ich). It kills because it takes much less time to "pump up" and flood the ick with water vs. the fish. This is also why the fish becomes more and more stressed over time...There is a fine line between killing the ich and harming the fish. Conversely, when adding a freshwater fish to salt water dip, this causes both animals to LOSE water. You are dehydrating them. Again there is a fine line between killing the ich and harming the fish. Fish have the ability to regulate their water intake to some degree. This is how estuarine fish survive. Freshwater fish are constantly excreting dilute urine to expel excess water. Saltwater fish are always trying to take on more water (only excreting concentrated urine), this is why they can go down a bit of salinity to no detriment, as it helps them regulate (there is less of a gradient). Think like if you want to lower your body temp at 70 degrees, it is easier to do from 75 than 80, but 65 is of no help. Salinity is the same, there is a degree where is can help the fish to no put so much energy into osmotic balance, but going too far doesn't help. This is also why adding a touch of salt to freshwater tanks can help some organisms osmo-regulate (especially with nitrite poisoning). Also, ammonia toxicity is based on pH (higher is more toxic) not really salinity. A solution with lower pH has more available protons, and those extra protons are around to bind and covert ammonia into ammonium (less toxic).

SOOOO true. Also beware of brownout specials and dying coral give-aways...there is a reason. I have noticed polyp extention issues with high nutrient load (phosphate and nitrates), as well as pests (AEFW and red bugs), as well as heavy metal toxicity and/or chloramines. And i sorta have to disagree with whoever said it just happens sometimes, its just the way it is. In truth it is a good indicator something is awry I have a feeling your skimmer is acting normally, you may be having nutrient spikes causing surges. You just need to figure out if the excess nutrients are killing the corals, or if the corals are dying from some other reason (possibilities listed above) causing the spikes themselves.

Bad. Go miracles in canada

I have half a small garbage bag full of black bioballs... If you want them, pm me, ill give you my address and set them out. You can have them.

Haha. Best meth head stopper is remington or mossberg 12 gauge with buckshot. My bedside buddy...

Yes! Guns were my first hobby. My list is too long, i think it just passed 2 dozen...even split of handguns, shotguns and rifles. I highly recommend the steyr m9-a1. My favorite next to sigs (for handguns). I love revolvers for carry, stealth, accuracy and reliability.

Just thought id pass this along! http://www.portlandoregon.gov/water/article/405471

Its been a few weeks, drying in the sun as much as possible. Just in a bucket or two and a half full 18 gallon rubbermaid tub. Just needs a thuorough rinse.

Also have like 40-60 lbs number one caribsea substrate that someone can have...needs a GOOD wash And a few dozen 6x4 dr fostersmith freezer packs they give you with frozen food orders. Anyone need them for a cheap chiller? haha