huskerduck

Im getting alot of different varietys of corals, is there a recomended article or chart with pictures as to what corals can be placed close to others as they grow, I have alot of varietys and colors of Monti that seem to not be effected by pulsing zenias and polyps. If you go into Upscales, they have stony corals completely wrapping around other stony corals. I dont retain what something is called very well and something with pictures would help. I have singularia that gets so big it blows into a leather and they seem to be fine touching eachother. Any rules of thumb as corals grow rapidly as to what needs to be so many inches from what? I have Montis that grow so fast theyre bound to touch something. I have had a bright red Monti that was growing at a spectacular rate and color and one moring wake up to see him completely white? Nothing touching him that I was aware and a nice show piece down the tubes for unknown reason. Can corals develope an ammunity as they grow larger and closer to other, I have a nice purple monti thats pretty small and all a sudden hes starting to die and its nowhere near anything else, not a rapid death like my red one but every day a little more white and less purple. Water tests show good, salinity a bit high but it always has been at 1.025.5, Magnesium a little low, hard to keep it up and if I dont add regularly it diminishes quickly? Alkalinity has been a problem @ 7-8 and dropping if I dont use dKH buffers. Calcium is always high at around 475 using a calcium reactor ( which should keep alkalinity high as well) Im not sure how to drop calcium other than turn of calcium reactor completely which I have for a week and all that does is drop Alkalinity, no effect on Calcium. My biggest problem is magnesim and alkalinity, my pH is always 8.2 never deviates

Mine are dead silent on startup and running, seriously considering wavemaking with them and see how long one lasts. They turn on and off twice a day anyway but on and off thousands of times a day is different. Bargain at any rate, I have MJ's set up on wavemaker to blast across the front of the #4s to disrupt the flow, works great!

I also have over 1K GPH returning through the sump and dumping back out both sides of the overflows without bouncing off the front until the middle tank. The Koralias bounce faster and closer to the corners and the fish cant swim well in the current ( school of chromies do somersaults) all other fish, large Foxface, Large Mystery Wrasse, Large Yellow and Blue Tangs sort of hide in a "cave" while they are running. My Gobie sits on the bottom with his tail whipping about no matter where he is and the Copperband seems ok with it but hugs the live rock closely as sort of a handrail

I could, Ive tried alot but these things are pretty powerful across a wide pattern and Im thinking 2 may have been too much in a 155, when theyre off the corals and fish celebrate, Im thinking now of running them twice a day with Halide on and before off. Mine start and stop smoothly with no clattering or anything, not sure why they wouldnt work on a wavemaker

I heard the Seios controller works, but its $160 bleh. What I did was hook mine up and then aimed some powerheads on a wave maker crossways across the Koralias stream to cause a little difference. Seems to work, atleast change its pattern slightly. Fish dont seem to like the Koralias, they seem to be hiding in the corners kindof

I bought a couple and would really like to wavemake but heard its not good on them and they are loud. Has anyone found a good solution? I would also like to slow them down and shut them off at night if possible, anybody make an affordable solution, maybe an electronics store question? We all know as soon as a picture of a fish is placed on a product it just doubled in price. There has to be solutions not in this industry that are reliable

Actually My Cal reactor one works kind of, when its not making weird noises and you have to force the water through wide open, then shut it off, tap it with a sledge hammer, break out the welder and..........., well maybe its not that bad but its very picky on the number of hours it wants to work if at all, not sure how you can tell if its working or not anyway other than its a little warm and vibrating, you cant tell if the media inside is getting cycled or not. The Kalkwasser reactor pump may need to be tore out, unhooked, drained, tore apart, fiddled with and it may work but is there another option to stir the Kalk without a pump in that reactor, obviously the pump is in a harsh enviornment but my wife is left alone with this system for months on end, thats why I bought this stuff so she doesnt have to labor over keeping corals alive, which she has had to do anyway with multiple phone calls regarding all my products I bought. It stresses her out but she maintains and has only had most of my stonies die for unknown reasons. When I returned after 4 months, the Protien skimmer Pump was on the fritz with rust showing under the cover, it works but rusty water is being introduced via the GenX2400. My 4100 GenX is gutless and barely runs my chiller and Calcium Reactor with 0 head to push, its a trickle that comes on strong about every 10 minutes? My GenX HP external pump has been very reliable for 5 months now ( very impressed ) hope it continues or that will be a chore for her to deal with. I just want to know whats the BEST equiptment to own that is maintainence free for the longest period of time, I understand pumps running all day ( not the kalk pump, twice a day for 10 minutes) but Im willing to pay for stainless steel or aluminum "hop ups" for these products if they do exsist. The real garbage in Reefing that I have found is the wave maker/lighting timer power strips, I have tried the digital ones, the dial types the high dollar and cheap ones and they are all crapping out on me

How big of frag you need? Youre quite a ways away from me but I have a pretty sizable one that just went through a tank swap and not popping out for last two days, hopefully hes/shes/its still alive

Forgot to mention it sold!

a 155 bowfront allows for a great deal of blind placing while the water is murky, I was extremelly lucky, didnt even break any Montis. My ship was the hardest thing to deal with because it is sizable and covered in pulsing zenias and stonies so its a living thing thats awkwardly big to manuver around . The Micro bubbles are a pain but they always seem to take a couple days to get blown out and stopped but they are getting better with every tweak

It was a killer, no doubt. the wife was running about picking up extra heaters and PVC fittings and such while I just pounded for like 18 hours straight. Ive never learned to stack rock properly when putting it back in so its easier to aquascape, I spent 2 hours yesterday configuring for future corals and that was really, really tough. My sump design is still amazing me on how effcient is is in space saving and still getting a Fuge ( fairly big one) in there. If I could figure out the octopus of wires it would clear up a bunch more room but it just looks de-motivating when looking at them. The 155 is smoking hot and allows for some nice arrangements, I wish they had put the overflows closer by about 2". I forgot to paint the back Black which really makes things "pop", thankfully I left 6" behind the tank this time. Now that its pretty much over, I think I could do it much faster and cleaner next time. This one was much smoother than the one before but I had a sump/fuge to build this time

I bought a Kalk reator and a Calcium reactor 4 months ago, I cant remember the name of the company but its by or in Keizer and has a white oval label with a blue Fish like design. Both have Octopus pumps that appear to not work or make a horrendeous noise if they do. Today I notice they just get hot, really hot, but no movement. Is this normal for this product and if so can you swap that brand with a better brand? 4 Months and both are shot??? Both the same brand?? Pretty crappy if you ask me for the prices they charge for these things

awow Garret nice reply!!! The swap is complete and looks incredible! I used my old sand, it smelled like the ocean but wasnt terribly over powering, I had a couple black streaks here and there and left it in the old tank, the wife didnt even moan 1 time about digging out clean sand for an hour and going around the sand that appeared darker. This was all done so fast, I think everything went fine. The new sump I built is working SPECTACULARLY, I am thinking (hoping) my design was good, the old one was HUGE and took up the entire stand but 16". Now I have all my goodies but the Chiller in the stand including the Sump/fuge, Calcium Reactor, Kalk Reactor, Gas Bottle, External pump. In my sump I have the Fuge and topoff built in and its so nice to use all that wasted space and the way I designed it I have a good 1-1/2" of free space with power outtage. I built it out of 1/2" and 3/8" acrylic and Rocky from Alamo Plastics sold (and cut most) everything including glues for $130, a sheet of 3/8" was $275 from everywhere else. Im dealing with the annoying micro bubbles from fresh restart and Ive had them before butthey seem to go away as the system finally reduces them via socks and sponge filters. Nothing is setup inside the tank yet, doing that tonight. Figured I would just pile up the rock and spread all the corals out and them and the other critters rest awhile before the rest of the carnage

I was thinking/hoping a couple hundred, Not even a year old and the stand is ALOT nicer than the bowfront stand Im getting

Isnt new sand pretty much old sand? Does that make sense?(scratch) If new sand is just cleaned sand , cant I just rinse the heck out of most of my sand? Also, how much sand is too much sand?

Im getting a 155 Bowfront and have a 125. I have a 100 gallon rubbermaid horse trough and a 55 gallon tank for "storage" of critters and creatures whilst the move is happening ( the move is in the same room), its time for a good waterchange anyway since Ive been gone for 3 months so I will do 30 gallons of new in the 100 and probably 10 gallons in the 55 and then add water from tank and start grabbing my 150 - 200 pounds f live rock to catch all my fishys. I plan on hanging the lighting over both for the " day" and probably use powerheads and chiller incase weather gets warm, should I place the protien skimmer in the 100 gallon just for cleanliness sake? good time to skim I would think. Im concerned with my 2"-6" of live sand , it looks kindof "dirty" to me, I have all sorts of burrowing critters like stars and such but Im not sure they are stirring it up well. When I take the sand out and put it in the new tank is there something that can be done to keep the crud at a minumum(scary)? Any other suggestions welcomed! Im building a new Sump/fuge/topoff because the old one is just to large and too much wasted space, I want to keep my Kalk and calcium reactors under the stand. How long does it take for Acrylic glue to cure?

72 x 18 x 18 All Glass dual Overflows, I also have a spare 55 that came as a sump along with the sump the guy made who sold it too me.

I want to buy the 155 Bowfront @ Jasons in Salem but that leaves me a 125 gallon with stand ( Black ) and sump ( I want to build a new one, this one is rather large and has refugium seperated) Just curious if I could get rid of this and what its worth

I will take a pump or two @ $50 a pop if you like, I use them to run my chiller and calcium reactor. spares cant be a bad thing. Got any sumps?

If its not on Discovery HD and my Tivo says it isnt than its not worth watching until its in HD. Hopefully Blue Ray or HD DVD picks this up like Planet Earth which was amazing in HD and Bleh on regular SD Discovery

any Updates?

GenX 4100 $53 a peice or all 3? Have they pumped water or still in box?