WAVES

FYI that last chamber with the orange stuff etc is your DI

the magazine is Coral magazine,,, its just the new issue. Sorry I wasnt more clear.

Frogfish sea hares zoanthids marsa shagra (red sea) inside cover Denise pygmy seahorse sponges from plant animals to suppliers of biochemicals pathogenic bacteria in the saltwater aquarium, part 2: bacterial contaminiation of frozen foods phosphate in the reef aquarium, Part 1: causes and effects

Ive had a number of timinis through the shop and none of them were really that spectacular. All were hawaiian (which usually has great colors). If you do get one, be sure and get it from an LFS somewhere so you can see the colors, None of mine have ever had the yellows/purples as shown on liveaquaria etc. If you buy it online, I would bet it will show up mostly brown. Its possible they only color up when they are older, all the ones I had were pretty small, like 2-3 inch.

there are peppermints that dont eat aips, it wasnt a joke. But they arent camels either. Just like Andy said, he recieved true pepps but they arent eatting aips. I believe its what Mike said, it depends on the location they are harvested, I dont know if its actually a different species, but just that there are for sure some that munch it big time, and some that dont touch it.

Im with Roy although I didnt know what it is, but look at a google search for neomeris: http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&aq=Neomeris&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2004-52,GGLD:en&q=Neomeris&sa=N&tab=wi Nice job Roy,

YOu can buy AC fans as well,, those ones happen to be DC. I like the AC fans for that reason, just plug em into your timer (or whatever) and you dont have to deal with one of those big transformer boxes that takes up 3 outlets in a power strip. VHO ARE AC. I mounted lights in my old tank out the top of the canopy, it made a neat little strobe show on the ceiling..... (see dictionary for SARCASM)... I ended making these acrylic scoops that shot the air to the side once it came out the top, this blocked the light. I vote for the back like the other guys.

Shawn you should have told me,, I have a 1/2 NPT Tap. I have a korallin for my home tank as well, I think Ill buy the fittings etc. When you get your new lid, mind bringing it by so I can see how its layed out etc?

no its in a micron bag inside the reactor. Alk was beautiful too (see TRT post). Off today, Ill check it Tuesday and see what the numbers are.

Mag was up 15 ppm today from yesterday.

I had a foxface in my frag tank get stuck against a Seio too, he had "grill marks" when I unplugged it and he swam away. He did ok for a few days then lost it.

you need a bigger hole than that for a 1" bulkhead. a 1" bulkhead is the size of pipe, off the top of my head I think you need a 1.5" hole for a 1" bulkhead, maybe 1.75. at any rate, i have one you can borrow.

my thoughts? I run my FO tanks as low as .011, I usually drip them for about 4-5 hours. longer is better, but there is only so many hours in the day for me.

I dont think I agree flyguy, I think Joe has himself quiet the empire in construction. I agree Joes Juice will whip them out, but I dont think it destroys them enough to keep them from coming back. It seems one aip nuked with Juice turns too 3, nuke those when they are small and all the sudden you have 5-10 aips to nuke every weekend. To me that is NOT the answer. There are two kinds of peppermint shrimp, one eats aips one doesnt, as far as I know there is no way to tell them apart, at least not quickly visually. honestly, I would consider getting your hands on a aip eatting nudi, if you can isolate your fuge, drop one in with maybe an airstone for circulation ( pumps eat nudi's) and let it go to town. THen once they are gone, make a post and I am 100% sure someone would LOVE to buy the nudi from you. Berghia verrucicornis nudibrach actually CONSUMES Aips, they scrape them off at the base and dont leave anything behind. This is what I would recommend.

how low are you going to go with hypo? what kind of fish are you treating?

whats RSS?

I call BS on Woody, I like the guy and Im not bashing him, but I totally disagree. He also believes halides are too much for mushrooms, well Ive got a 250 less than 12 inches from mushrooms and they open huge and "soak it up". NO matter what the wattage, its still nothing compared to sunlight. I would guess something else is going on causeing the problem, I dont think a sunshade or reduced photo period is your answer. JMO. joel

If I have that size I have one you can borrow. what size BH is that for?

Im not worried about phos now, after speaking with them. now its just a matter if my mag will be at like 2400ppm tomorrow it was actually at 1350 today (not low at all) but I have been dosing every day trying to keep up with the clam. If it holds steady for a week that will be sweet news.

I did call the manufacture and spoke with my sales rep,, he said phosphates are so low they arent worth discussing. I put some in the show tank today in a nylon bag, Ill test today and in like a week and see what happens.

There is a magnesian calcite sand that has this composition: Calcium 197,500 Cobalt 4 Iron 2876 Potassium 417 Magnesium 115400 Manganese 43 Molybdenum 6 Strontium 63 Vanadium 7 Zinc 23 listed is PPM. This is an aquarium product, and my thought is adding it in addition to normal reactor media to help buffer magnesium content (as many including myself battle magnesium levels). Anyone have any thoughts? seems like a great solution to me, my only worries are there is no phosphates listed in the above numbers, and I also dont know how the product will desolve, or how high it may take the magnesium. it would be awful difficult to take this back out of the reactor. I think I may try it in a nylon bag inside the reactor, so if it has bad results, Ill remove it easily. Thoughts?

Thats what you do for other stings too,,, like lionfish, etc. I think most of the toxins in the ocean cant handle heat so they are quickly broken down under the hot water.

It probably hurt more if you had any scratches on your arm. I doubt it could penetrate your skin, but if you had scratched up your arm even a little on your sumps edge it can hurt like hell. I wear glvoes all the time now (for unrelated issues) but I sure knew where all my nicks and cuts where when I picked up an RBTA or Euphillia coral. I heard elegance coral has a sting strong enough kill aiptasia, too bad we cant keep elegance alive.

Formalin is a useful tool as well, dipping a new fish in a bucket with 1ml per gallon of 37% formalin solution for an hour does amazing. Be sure and run an airstone in the bucket during treatment as the formalin will reduce the oxygen content of the water. I also run a weak formalin dose in the FO systems, its easier on the fish than copper. I have had good results from Ruby Reefs products, the catch is using it before there is a big issue. I have had 4-5 people take home a powder blue tang with Kick-Ich and introduced the fish while dosing. None of them ended up with Ick in the tank. SOme may say "if you just QT the fish it wont introduce ich" but I disagree, I would bet a PBT would either die in the QT (unless you use like a 55gal for QT) or would still get ich once you moved it into the display. They are just SO touchy with ich. Kick-Ich will not solve a nasty ich problem at all, but if you just see a few spots on 1-2 fish, it will sure help keep it from spreading/expanding as an issue.

trick for bristles too is to put a cocktail shrimp in some nylon pantyhose and drop it in the tank over night. The bristles will come out looking for some grub and will get caught in the nylon. Next morning just take it out and throw it away. Myself, I dont care how many bristles are in the tank, as long as they are less than 4-5 inches.