Jump to content

Having issues with sps


PowderBlue

Recommended Posts

Tank info

Size-10 gallon Nuvo AIO

Light- AI Prime

Filtration media rack with sponge filters, purigen, and a minimax media reactor half way filled with aquamaxx gfo. I replace the gfo every week

Flow is a maxi jet 900 on the return pump and a sicce nano powerhead

 

 

I thought I narrowed down my issue to phosphates. My phosphates have tested 0.00 on my Hanna meter twice now over a week and a half span. I don't have any hair algae or anything of that nature. But every piece of my sps is starting to die. I can't keep the stuff alive for any more than a month. It will all eventually just lose its skin and die. Even my lepto is starting to look bad and that's my favorite piece of coral. My nitrites nitrates and ammonia and 0 as well. Someone wanna come over and check this [language filter] thing out for me?!

I also do water changes every week to every 2 weeks at the longest. I am unsure what my alk, calcium are but that's the last I can think of. 4abff176cead7b01c503f4c63a4ecbaa.jpgthis was taken when I brought the sps home from Arson in the top right

 

 

This is the same piece now :( 3a572ef7f59a23d9b6d2f103954ddbf5.jpg as you can see the flesh is starting to melt

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the first thing you need to do is test for Alk, Ca, and Mag. Your Alk should be 7-9, your Ca 380-450, and your Mag should be 1200-1400. Do you dose any 2 part to replenish these? Or do you rely on water changes? Either way, you should test for them at least once per week.

 

Another possibility is that your water is too clean. SPS will fade and melt for many people if their Nitrate and Phosphate are at zero.

I shoot for nitrates of around 5-10 ppm and phosphate .03-.10 in my system. If I let them get too low my SPS pale and then proceed into rapid tissue necrosis.

 

With a 10 gallon tank, you could probably keep your nutrients in the range that I mentioned just using water changes. If so, I would take out the GFO and the purigen. Also, you need to test alk and ca right away.

 

Good luck!

Edited by Lexinverts
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do 70 percent water changes on a nearly weekly basis. That's the only reason I haven't bought the test kits. Changing 5 gallons in a tank that holds apx 8 gallons I highly doubt the corals are depleting the nutrients that fast. Now I've been wrong once or twice before, but that would be extremely fast to me. I'll get the kits and test but if everything is in line I'll be officially stumped. Aside from what lexinverts said and maybe it's too clean and I should remove the gfo. Thanks for the help but this is a serious question.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to be clear, when we are referring to "nutrients" we are referring to nitrate and phosphate.

 

By doing those large water changes, you could be controlling for depeletion of important ions like Ca, Carbonate (Alk), and Mg, but who knows?

 

One other possibility is that in such a small system, you might cause the parameters to change substantially with each large water change. A spike in your alkalinity every week right after your water change could be stressing your corals as well. However, I think the most likely culprit is that your nutrients are too low and you are starving your corals.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what would be your plan of attack lex? Do a few gallon water change, test all the parameters, wait 4 or 5 days, test again? And either dose for alk mag and calcium. Then maybe go longer between water changes? All other corals seem to be OK minus the sps and lepto, but I know others are much more forgiving as well.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Edited by PowderBlue
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would drastically reduce the amount of your water changes that you do each time. Drop it down to 10-20% per week.

 

I would test your Alk and Ca every few days and see what patterns that you see (including right after a water change).

I find the Salifert test kits to work best for me for alk and ca.

 

If you see your Alk and Ca change too much between water changes, consider doing water changes every 3 days. Alternatively, there are "nano" dosing systems that you can use to replenish Alk and Ca, but I would see what you can do with some small water changes first.

 

I would also pull out your purigen and your GFO and do the same monitoring for Nitrate and Phosphate. Check it every few days and see what you see. If you can keep nitrate in the range of 5-10 ppm and Phosphate between .03 and .1 using only water changes to export nutrients I think that you will be golden. I prefer the Red Sea test kits for Nitrate and Phospate.

 

Good luck!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gonna have to agree with both lex and blackice. The Calc/Alk drop at astonishing rates in smaller volumes of water. I recently had my corals in a 10g holding tank while upgrading and I had to dose a ridiculous amount of 2 part daily to keep them in ideal ranges otherwise I would be sitting at a low 6 Alk within a matter of 2 days, I pretty much was testing almost every other day to keep things in line reassuring my upgrade to 30Gallons was a wise choice as I never want to babysit a tank like that again.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like you got the right idea but have taken a little to far. I tried to rely on water changes to replace my supplements it work for a while but there is a lot of swings with that especially when you're changing 70% of your water. that's a lot, good to keep stuff clean but your Parameters Will swing a lot especially if you get a bad batch of salt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on my two nanos I had my alk drop like crazy lately and have been fighting to keep it up. I realized it was from a bad batch of salt I used to set up the 20 gallon (glad I only bought a small box of it) and the gfo with purigen I added at the same time to both of the tanks. New batch of salt will be ordered soon! When I do water changes on my 10 gallon is only about a gallon and on the 20 maybe 2 gallons a week seem to work just fine. :) oh yeah and only use purigen or your gfo not both. I learned that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tested all my levels, calcium was crazy low, alk was Dead on target, and mag was low as well. Did a 3 gallon change, turned off my gfo reactor and removed the purigen. I'm going to let the dust settle and test everything again tomorrow morning. And then each day for a week and see what I need to dose and how much. I also bought some Vitro fuels to help feed the corals. Hoping we are on a positive slope up and no more negatives haha!

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So after a 3 gallon change and a day of settling my levels are here

Alk- 8.4

Mag-1300 ish

Cal-400

I'm going to test again the day after tomorrow and see where everything falls. By the looks of it calcium will be what I'll need to dose. I'm hoping kalk in my ato will be enough. Time will tell! I may even be able to get away with a weekly change of a few gallons.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can relate to 5 gal changes, it's how I've always done the mixing since day one so its easy to default to known mixing amounts. With a tank that small though, I think a gallon is the most I'd be changing. Maybe get ahold of some gallon milk jugs and force yourself to only use one at a time haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get my water straight from upscales. Salt and fresh. After the water change everything was right in great range. I think I went too long between changes I tried to go 2 weeks and that won't work

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

 

Oh, ok just wondering which salt mix. I used Kent in the past which was fine because in the bigger tanks we would monitor and dose but sometimes we would get a bad batch. I have been happy with the red sea coral pro so far. The alk stays more stable. In the past I couldn't keep magicians alive in my tank but think that's because the alk was so low. Happy to say the ones I got from Robert are alive and well just refuse to grow!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Little update

I removed all my sticks, I removed the purigen, and turned off my gfo reactor for 5 days.

My question is, now that I've removed the sps, can I turn the gfo back on? I'd like to keep phosphates as low as possible. All of my other corals aside from the sps and my lepto seemed to be doing fine. The lepto is doing considerably better. I think the lack of calcium and the deadly low alk etc was my biggest issue.

So should I leave the gfo off or is turning it back on ok? Phosphate ppm is now 0.02 so it hasn't come up much. I'd hate to have an algae battle on my hands

 

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

Edited by PowderBlue
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...