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pdxmonkeyboy

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Posts posted by pdxmonkeyboy

  1. No worries @maxicurls .   I will say that "most" things that start making an SPS disintegrate happen two weeks or so before you actually see the signs.  Pollutants however.. metals, ammonia, etc can have an immediate affect on almost everything.  

     

     

  2. 15 hours ago, albertareef said:

    I bet you could reinforce that seam from inside the chase with some strips of additional material and not sacrifice much area.  The internal corners might be a bit tricky though. Brian (pdxmonkeyboy) should be able to advise.

    oohh. I really like that idea Sean.  I could actually cut a square piece of 3/4 acrylic and glue it vertically to the inside of the overflow... that would essentially eliminate having to fit something in the rounded corners!! 

     

  3. It could be done.  It will not be super pretty, but it can be done.  You would basically need to trace the outline to make a template then risk cutting your fingers off while routing a piece to fit. 

    Weld on 4 (or better yet my home made acrylic solvent) and then seal everything with weldon 16.  Should be good to go.   If you bring your tank over on satruday I could do it while you wait. 

    Or.. you sweep my shop floor and I will do it for you.  

    for real.. I am building a 4x8 aquarium and there is acrylic shavings EVERYWHERE.  :)

     

    • Like 1
  4. 12 hours ago, maxicurls said:

    Metal contamination from a steel hose clamp is likely not the issue here, in my estimation. 

    Tell albertareef that.   A tiny rusting screw in his calcium reactor? was killing things in his tank. 

     

    • Like 1
  5. I would be more concerned by the fact that you essentially have a 3/8" thick aquarium because if that overflow seam fails all the water is going to pour out of it.   It shouldn't be a problem, but it certainly would be the first time I have seen something like that.  If you already bought BH, then just do a closed loop! 

  6. my oh my..  now I see that the second chamber of the "overflow" doesn't actually have a bottom!!  

    I have some spare acrylic that would could machine to fill that hole in order to install a second drain pipe.. the problem is still however, access that middle divider to cut some holes in it. 

    I suppose it is fine how it is but it is indeed going to be pretty loud. 

    On the closed loop... you don't want an inlet on the bottom of the tank as it would suck in sand and what not. 

    I can seal them off for you if you want.  It would take all of like 5 min. 

     

    • Like 1
  7. I would most definately take advantage of a closer loop. The fell out of favor when all the new wave makers hit the market but now that we have all these low energy DC pumps on the market they make even more sense.

    I want prattle on about how much better they are than wave makers, but I will say this... no maintenance!! None, zero. No soaking, no scrubbing, no nothing.

    Anyways, if they are truly 2" wide holes then I would buy two 1" schedule 80 bulkheads. You are also going to need a other hole in the back of your tank for an inlet. Probably 1" or 1.5" bulkhead.

    You can get a jebao DCQ pump that moves 2600 gph, and has a pulsing wave function for $130 on Amazon.

    Your also going to want to redo that drain on the tank. One pipe is going to be REALLY noisy.

    Cheers

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  8. As someone that has a good deal of acrylic fabrication experience , I would strongly advise against trying that

    Weldon is used to bond seams together and will work for patching holes with scraps of acrylic but getting two flat sheets (which are actually not flat anymore because they are used) to stick together and look even half decent is going to virtually impossible.

    Fabricators use special 2 part mixes for that sort of thing.

    Two bulkheads and a PVC union and you are on the way.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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