milesmiles902

Bret and Softy are people on the forum. Just do a search. You'll find them. Here are the usernames:

Bret = MrBret

Softy = Softy

PM'ing them would probably be optimal.

Good deal.

Gorilla glue, sandpaper and then paint?

There are a lot of good people on this forum, who know a lot about aquariums. Feel free to ask around. Someone is bound to have an answer.

Both non-members and members can join in on this fun:

http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/37143-april-meeting-oregon-coast-aquariumhatfield-behind-the-scenes-tours/

Hope to see you around.

Yeah, that sounds like a grounding issue. Haha.

I was just wondering if it was the American DJ system or something in the water grounding through the American DJ system. Logically, if you touch the American DJ system without the water, you should still get shocked if it is only the American DJ system. Unless you aren't grounded and the aquarium is.

I don't know. Just attempt the volt meter. You'll figure it out.

Quick question. Do you feel any shock when you put your hand in the water? I know sometimes I might not feel the electricity through just skin, but if there is a slight wound somewhere I'll feel it. Slightly.

You should be able to use anything that is grounded for the volt-meter. The best ones are metal drain pipes or floor vents, but you might just be able to use the floor depending on the covering. The volt meter should track it down.

Good looking sump area.

Very little. The Netgear WNCE2001 is an N router so capable of ~300Mb/s but so far I have seen it using on busty packets for <1% channel occupancy (using wireshark). so it is very low in terms of required b/w.

Yeah. I couldn't imagine that it would take a lot of data, unless you were streaming high quality video of your tank.

The problem with some of the old routers is their coverage might not reach the newer routers coverage. Otherwise, sounds like they are a possibility as an extender. Just need to mess with settings or install DD-WRT firmware. Just another option.

What type of bandwidth does an Apex require?

I know nothing about the Apex, but I do know that any router can be used in bridged mode. Most people that have had internet for a few years, probably have a router lying around. Probably would save you a little bit of money.

All routers can be extenders, but not all extenders can be routers. :P

I don't think they feel it. Usually, you only feel electricity when you are the ground. I don't imagine the fish are grounded in anyway, since the tank is glass. Although, you'll feel it.

I would try to fix the problem. It might be a sign that something is going to burn out.

So, it's not real?

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. I hope that quite a bit of the zoa's were saved. They are hardy little things. You know...even some of the SPS can withstand being out a water for a while. Maybe than you think are alive. Gil&Fin did the right thing by going by.

Just be positive.

I really like the leopard print. Never seen that on a coral.

Haha. I would never joke about such a serious thing. I always write a question of the day or week in the common area. Here is what I wrote today:

Made me want to come and write a thread about the new National holiday.

Did you know that April 1st became a National holiday?

It is great to see a new person joining the forum. Sounds like you know your stuff. If you have time, you should try to make it out to the Hatfield Marine Science Center on April 17th. Here is the link talking about it:

http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/37143-april-meeting-oregon-coast-aquariumhatfield-behind-the-scenes-tours/

Kind of a hard question to answer, since there are so many additives and algae control products.

Quite a bit of the dosing products, alk, mag, calcium are all solutions of water and whatever the additive is. Commonly, I just make my own dosing solutions as it is much cheaper (also room for error). Just add the certain compound to water at a specific concentration and bam. Got an additive.

The algae control products are usually targeted at a certain type of algae (IMO). Some are anti-biotics to kill cyanobacteria or other products to kill [algae here]. I imagine it is a powder dissolved in water, with a common concentration.

I'd be happy to be apart of this grow-out. Just let me know what I need to do.

That makes sense. I am so unfamiliar with reactors it is not even funny. I wasn't sure, maybe it could have been the drip rate (maybe it is a bubble rate) of that thing to the left of the regulator, or it may have been because pH probes drift and it is good to see the pressure as a backup.

Usually, the simplest answer is the best answer.

Actually the title says calcium reactor. No assumptions there. :P

I am going to ask a noob question...so here it goes.

Assuming that is for a calcium reactor. If the calcium reactor is controlled via pH (which I am assuming it is), why would there be a worry about the pressure in/coming out of the tank? The pH is the fail safe in most instances, right? There has to be a reason.

It's an awesome forum. The people here really know their stuff. Hope to continue to see you around.

1. I have done half replace-half new, and I have replaced it all. Never kept it all. If I did, I would give it a wash.
2. Not as long as it normally would be if you transferred the live rock.
3. Umm...depends if you trust me. :P
4. 10 gallon won't be too hard. Just be ready to have the place its going prepared. Do a 25% water change. Make sure you have the water ready and warm. You'll be fine. It's really a break down and do the same thing in reverse when setting it up.

Wait. So...currently you have two safety points, correct? The solenoid and the Hydor level controller?

That's purdy.

Your tank is looking good. Glad you could make it to the forum.