milesmiles902

That is a very cool idea. You did a great job.

75 would make a nice frag tank! Or a huge refugium with all kinds of critters in it:) if that's a possibility.

 

 

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+1 to that.

Not sure on the clear. Kind of thinking of a white wash look maybe where the grain can come through. Only issue with clear is one of the panels is kind of messed up. It looks good from abut 8 feet  But if you look you might see it.....

A dark color would make the aquarium stand out. Why don't you just apply a dark stain to the wood, then clear coat it? That way you see the grains of the wood, and hide any unwanted mistakes.

I have been using MarineLand passively off and on for about 3 weeks now. Usually once, maybe twice a week. I notice that on my smaller tank it has the potential of lowering the pH a bit, but not on my main tank, where I use less per volume.

What can be tested to check if the activated carbon is bad? I know with phosban or GFO, you just test when the phosphates go up. Although, you can't really do that with activated carbon.

Hello everyone!

I was just wondering what your opinions are about Activated Carbon. Recently, I have been doing about 1/2 cup carbon per 50 gallons. I heard the length in which it last is only a couple days, but I want to hear your opinions. How long do you think it lasts? Along with, how much do you use?

The problem is, I cant get the sump out with the center brace in the way. Also, we may be upgrading to larger tank while moving, so then I could just fix it without stressing about it.

My tank is similar. I can't pull my sump out of the stand without emptying the main display. I don't think it would be a bad idea to replace it during the move. Just fill your new tank, make sure it doesn't leak and go for it.

If it doesn't work out, you always have the rubbermaid.

I like your temporary setup. It was a good choice.

Is it going to be a hinged door or pull off wood cover?

This is really a neat contraption. In reality, a 60x microscope would be pretty darn expensive compared to this.

One thing I have learned about using a pump as a salt mixer is that it is very harsh. Eventually the pump begins to make agitating noises because of the salt not all being in solution. I would advise an older pump or powerhead for salt mixing.

**Unless you are doing this by mass. I think you could pull it off that way. Just need a pretty accurate scale.

This technique is making the news over at R2R as Randy Holmes Farley did a writeup. Just think, we had it here first, thanks reefnjunkie!

 

My 0.1N acid came today. Like the kid in Christmas Story I rushed up to unwrap it and to the titration test.

 

 

So I heard this rumor, a rumor that Hanna measures 18% low on alkalinity. So I have been subtracting 18% from it's ready to get to my target (7-8 dkh).

 

Results:

 

9.24 Hanna (with the 18% adjustment I was thinking, around 7.6, perfect!)

10.64 Titration

 

Uh oh.. Crud! Hanna is less than actual, not 18% more?? I have been higher than I thought the whole time?? Ugh.

 

Time to bust out the SF test and have yet a third number.

 

So 10.64, too high? Higher than I was shooting for...

Were you using analytical glassware when attempting this? Or just drops? I have a feeling when talking about something like a titration it is important to be as accurate as possible.

You did a great job.

I think an APEX would be nice, I just have been spending my money on other aquarium stuff.

Just room temp it's 50g going in to 280g system the systems temp don't even move.

I always forget. Many of you keep your aquariums at room temp. The only time my tank is at room temp is when it's summer time :P

My RODI is near freezing when it comes out because it is in the garage. I always have to heat it before I make my salt.

I used to run that setup too a few years back on my son's tank.  It is low cost and quite effective for the most part.  

 

Unfortunately the high voltage/amps running through the float switch eventually caused the float switch to fail and overflow the tank with freshwater.  It is much better to put low current through the float using a relay.  The stuff from autotopoff.com is great, apex is great, etc etc...

Relays are pretty handy. You will need another power source though. I imagine a low volt battery would work. In the past I have used an arduino mega for the power source.

That one I posted does have a max of 0.5 amp and 100V switching voltage, or in total 50 watts switching power. Just keep the pump small and there shouldn't be any issues. As a safety, use a second float switch.

I have never setup a RO/DI auto topoff. What are peoples opinions of that kind of setup?

These fixtures need a squared off washer type of thing that slides into the extruded aluminum. Let me check to see if I saved mine at work.

Do you mean something like this?

It is a pretty good idea. I have seen stuff like that done on videos, but never me personally.

No. no no. The steps before getting an APEX are timers, then arduino, then raspberry pi, then APEX. One does not just jump from timers to an APEX.

I do think there is a lot of benefit to using an arduino reef controller, or raspberry pi. Although, it does require programming. Everytime I get one going, I move and have to rip out my old one. Forget my code....yada yada. It is a cheap alternative.

Whenever I have had to hang lights, it was always hooks. Then I came along to these:

http://www.thelashop.com/gardening-accessories-1-pairs-yoyo-grow-light-hangers-150lbs.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHNgSO-h4qlbzKZuuwGrDlA-NEW2CPlGAWJr9msnXqHMaAs1U8P8HAQ

On a stand like that, I am unsure. If you don't want to just tie a string around a leg or arm, then maybe a magnet. There are some fairly strong neodymium magnets that when distributed across four hooks could hold a light. Most of the images of your light look like it has legs. Could it sit on your sump?

That's still too much work....nah, I am just kidding. It is a pretty nice system. I really like the balance of ingoing and outgoing water with the  ballvalve. How do you get the water up to temperature? It seemed like you just had warm water ready to enter the tank.

I couldn't figure it out. Is this measuring room temperature or tank temperature? In the video he spoke of a heating and cooling plug? Please help me out.

That is one proffesional looking design you have there. I am going to try this myself during winter break. Thanks!

I think you can do it for even cheaper than that if you enjoy DIY. I went one similar to these:

http://www.tmart.com/Liquid-Water-Level-Sensor-Right-Angle-Float-Switch_p100472.html?cc=USD&fixed_price=us_us&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHOkhZFjrIxZsAdKq-GD2e9zBgaB29ng9M717mZU8vngaAojI8P8HAQ

It is really cheap compared to many alternatives. I then found an old pump and spliced the wire of the plug, soldered it, and heatshrinked the wires to waterproof it. Now I just have a bucket that has water with a hose into my tank, when the water level is low, the float switch starts the circuit and pumps in fresh H₂0.

Some people do a double float valve, that will shutoff the pump if it gets too high, but I just leave the sump empty enough to accommodate a bucket if need be. Single point safety is a bad thing. Most definitely.

I can always post pictures of my system if you want.

Edit: The setup works, but be warned. It isn't the most electrically stable setup. Keep those fish alive.