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goldenbasketreef

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Posts posted by goldenbasketreef

  1. Ohhhhh you should do another naming contest and give the winner a frag!

     

    Nah....

     

    Read!!! For the first 20 people starting today register or renew membership and making immediate donation to the club, I will enter into drawing for a free frag of this acropora tenuis.

     

    Post here if you have completed the above rule.

     

    Kim, please help me keep tract of the new member registered.

    • Like 1
  2. I think your water is too clean and starfing the sps.

    Try temporary remove GFO offline and feed the coral every other day.

    In about a week you will see the sps getting healthy again and some die off may occur for the one that too far at edge.

    When po4 creeps up to 0.04, put the gfo back online with half the media you normally use.

    If your skimmer on all the time, you may also want to stop 6 hrs a day, may be when off when you go to work and back on again when you are

    at home.

    Healthy sps should take the light spectrum from OR at 100% all channels at 20", assuming that you have 100% sps in that frag tank.

    If you have other corals may want to dim white channel and blue channel 100%.

    For sps I prefer to run OR at 100% and play with height adjustment to reduce intensity.

    Hanging OR 12-20" above water will be good level when using OR for sps only, you will get about 300-500 par at this height, will be less on older unit.

    Like softy said check to make sure all diodes are firing.

    • Like 2
  3. No perfect led fixture that will fit all, tank parameter or even water clarity make a big diff in lighting not only for led but also true for all other light source.

    As long as we cover the basic spectrum for growth and color that should be a good starting point. Most available fixture already have good base but poor placement or channel design that making impossible to tweak properly. That is why led fixture best run at 100% all channel for better balance.

    Adjusting height is the key, but if space is limited then need to be able to dim down properly to get good balance. Again no can't do if provided only with 2 knobs adjustment.

    There will never be enough space in the fixture to put violet diodes to satisfy the amount available in the ocean per square feet area about 50-60feet deep.

    As much as you can put them in the better you are. True violet spectrum usually refer to as UV will not affect the over all color that our eyes can see.

  4. 4500K is about NW and usually already has a lot of red and green spectrum in it.

    If you are using another deep red 660nm would it adding a lot more red in the mix?

    I would consider using more 470nm and 400-410nm since you are lacking this spread, non fluorescence will show better.

    Amber will be a good choice to add instead of red. Your non fluorescence red, orange and pink will show better.

    I would also suggest using 90 degree optic for better blending of your light, 60-70 degree optic is a more spotlight.

     

    300W is a lot of light. For comparison 16 USA brand diodes is about 125-150W of T5.

    Have you look into individual led that are more efficient and less electricity to run?

  5. I have been in the business for quite some time and has used PC, T8, T5, MH, and now LED.

    It is not the question if any of the fore mentioned reef light source will grow or color corals better. They each serve the purpose for their time.

    As technology progress so does the knowledge to utilize this technology.

    The more sophisticated the more end user understanding required.

    T5 & MH is more plug and play lighting, it is very rare we make mistake with these two light source and available option is not that much to select the

    right combination. Less and less manufacture producing the bulb and eventually they will become obsolete.

    LED is a new breed of light source that produce by many manufactures and each with their separate binning or non binning process.

    With that we have quite a lot of variances in regards to nm spectrum and live span of the diodes itself. Blue led for example will vary spectrum wise base on brand.

    It is not a plug and play. We have to know what combination of diodes and what brand being put into a fixture, we also need to understand how to color

    balance our fixture. It is way worst when you have only 2 channels to balance most of the affordable fixture.

    This is where the issue that some people having problem or not getting good result from led fixture. It is more complex than what we used to with just plug and play. Fixture design is another whole issue that need a thread by itself.

    GB is 100% led for about 3-4 years now. We have china made led with china diodes, china made led with USA diodes, and DIY.

    IME china made led with china diodes lasted only 2.5 years, ymmv, the big issue I see is spectrum shift and also intensity lost.

    Yup that is pretty much sum it up, diodes rating are lies, even worst with china led. Of course some will argue that with cooling it will increase diodes live span. Well for a very simple thing as checking the fan and making sure they run properly to cool the unit, how many have even bother to do this?

    I would bet not many. When the fan failed the led fixture will be toast. It is tacky to rate the led fixture for many years of operation when the fan itself only

    rated for 2 years or so live span. My suggestion for those running led fixture have a fan or two on hand.

    One thing I know for sure when we switch from T5 & MH to all LEd fixture, our electric bill went down by 45%. That is significant monthly saving for a company with high electric bill.

    • Like 5
  6. Canon Powershot D30

    Nikon Coolpix AW130

    Olympus Tough TG-850

     

    The above cameras are all can be used underwater without special case.

    I would clean in freshwater after use in saltwater tank.

    • Like 1
  7. Again, enough discussion for several weeks on and off.

    We can't put words in the mouth of current officers and bods.

    We just need to encourage them to discuss and make decision in a timely manner (matter of days)

    This club / site can't afford another week/s of dilemma not moving forward.

    Officers and bods need to reach out to whoever left here with admin capabilities to come up with solutions.

    Fixing the site has become a #1 immediate goal for the club.

     

    There is also another issue with too many officers/bods turn around.

    But this is not and issue, IMO, because come election time when you all exercise your right to vote this issue will automatically taken care off.

     

     

  8. Actually US led manufacture such as cree and dycon has far better product out in a while now.

    Philips also among the leading manufactures for high output led.

    Unfortunately this type led designed for utilities and architectures in general so this has little use on reef aquarium application.

    Our corals will have better sun tan with this led for sure...lol...you know the color of sun tan...

     

  9. I think Kevin was saying that the least cost and better option is to go to IPB. Some IT expert need to explain to the mass why so.

    Backward option to vb4 require additional time and money and also we have an issue with share server that need to be addressed also sooner the better.

    What we need is not just keep talking about what has been or what if but concrete plan to bring this plan into motion so the site get fixed for good.

    What and where is the hold up that is what we need to hammer. Hammering each other bring us to square one and never ending story.

    If the club need to form special committee do it immediately don't procrastinate.

  10. Enough chit chat, just fix this place for good, so there is a fun place to to talk about fish and corals

    All the issues stemming from only the dysfunctional site

    Once the site running normal all issues automatically addressed at the same time

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