goldenbasketreef

Isn't it the majority of aeration happened in skimmer chamber and also when water come down from baffle to create waterfall effect?

Excessive aeration could cause the tiny bubbles to get stuck underneath the coral tissue.

If there are wide enough optics to mimic the spread of a 15" or 20" mh reflector or a t5 parabolic then by all means let me know. The one thing leds really bring to the table right now over other light sources is efficiency and controllability. last time I checked the datasheets for every popular 3w led used in current fixtures they all hit their peak efficiency when driven at around 1w or 350ma. So to maintain that efficiency it is optimal to run a higher diode density at less current which also has the benefit of increased spread and light saturation. The one downside is the increased up front cost because of the increased diode count. I am not sure what circuitry issues a higher diode count would entail as long as proper drivers and power sources are used and as for moisture issues I know a t least one fixture on the market that is waterproof so with the proper design it shouldn't be a problem.

 

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Majority of reefers still using T5 and MH as the benchmark standard. So if using LED fixture not succesful they will go back to either T5 or MH.

LED fixture will not fit all and also the fixture came in many design and difference in diodes quality. Some diodes you can drive up to 350ma and some

diodes you can drive all the way to 1.5V. Some 3W diodes will maintain spectrum when dim or run at 350ma and some we will not know what spectrum they cast

when dim at 350ma. Because of this variance LED fixture is not plug and play and also this variance attributed to some people having issue when running led fixture.

The key is to know the handicap of the fixture being used and how to somehow lessen the issue to make it a good working unit.

For example, many led brand place violet and white diodes in one channel. Violet is an absolute must have in a fixture for coral growth and color, it is as much PUR as you can

get in a single violet diode. However when the white being dim the violet also got dim as well. No wonder that some people having issue with color and also corals not growing.

Corals need violet, rb, & blue (basically 400-480nm) as much as you can give the corals, in a fixture you will want this at 100% output.

Looking at Philips experiment they may design the led fixture with T5 benchmark, intensity/par and spectrum should be about the same as having T5. The color spectrum will be

better because they covers a wide range of spectrum with the layout in CoralCare fixture. Still not sure if end user will be able to tune the color to have color combination of T5.

Constitution wise, isn't it better to have few higher output emitters, meant to be driven at a high mA, with wide optics, then a fixture with many more emitters at lower mA? This leads to potential circuity issues, especially when dimming and moisture is involved. As far as energy, does look like a good amount of PAR.

It is all depend on the application, it is difficult to build led aquarium lighting because one fixture doesn't fit all.

In a bigger and deeper commercial tank high ma diodes may be necessary instead of having a bunch of smaller hobbyist tank fixtures for economic reason.

In my shop we work around the tank a lot so having 6-12" fixture above the water just not workable, I need to hang the light 24-36" above water and still giving good par

for the corals to grow and color up. Hence I am using higher wattage diodes so I can drive them with higher ma drivers.

D120 layout idea is design for even coverage using more diodes at lower wattage.

Unfortunately running without optics will have to set down low to have enough par, I have tested this already.

With or w/o optics will depend on lens that come with the diodes itself. Some color has 100 degree or less dome lens and some other colors has 180 deg lens.

If the diodes all come with 180 deg lens and produce enough lumens then running without optics will be OK. At the same position par could be down to 50% w/o optics.

LED reflector become the choice right now, it gives smooth and even blend as compare to optic.

Back to Philips CoralCare it may have the new luxeon z on it, smaller platform with brighter and more efficient than luxeon rebel diodes.

Philips is a household quality brand name and people should expect the same when this light become available.

Philips hold so many patents in lighting technology including led technology up to a point that other brands led diodes pay royalty fee to incorporate Philips technology

in manufacturing the led diodes.

Check this annoucement from Philips:

http://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-li/coralcare

Before putting up for sale to the public, Philips conducted ongoing study to compare this led fixture to T5 for growing corals.

http://images.consumerproducts.philips.com/Web/PhilipsConsumerLifestyle/%7B883e5b3b-b8bd-44bd-8666-e67edeba6f46%7D_CoralCare_LED_unit_-_Preliminary_Field_Test_Report_-_FINAL_v2.pdf?elqTrackId=d1902c43043547c99c55a620f76bbe01&elq=5d382ca9f6b24aef86a62bc69d2e781b&elqCampaignId=&elqaid=12591&elqat=1

Will be interesting to see the final product.

Very tightly space & low wattage for even spread and passive cooling.

Merry Christmas.

It is so unfortunate that some nice protopaly are deathly to other corals and can poison human also.

Those corals may have a chance to come back depending on how much poison get into its system, it will be a long process.

Sorry you have to experience this issue and hope for a better new tank.

Sorry I called Toxic Purple (Purple Death protopaly) because it is the first paly that poison myself when I inhaled the air while cutting a frag.

102 Fever & Chill and Burning Throat for 8 hrs. I was lucky I didn't inhale enough toxin to knock me out.

The nuclear green protopaly colony in your full tank shoot before the rock falling.

The toxin will be very potent in a small tank.

Nuclear Green & Toxic Purple Protopaly is best keep in 50gal or larger tank, so the toxin if release will be diluted with more water volume, hence less toxic to other corals.

For reference, things looked like this a few weeks before the rock collapse:

 

 

Plump, juicy, and healthy! Certainly no melting favias or gooed up brains with skeletons showing! 

 

I'm just days away from having the upgrade ready. This reef is going into a 40g breeder, which the plumbing is finally done on and has saltwater mixing inside right now.  I'm anxious to move everything over, but nervous my new tank is going to look like garbage, thanks to this rock collapse/melting coral disaster! 

Looks like your paly was stressed when rock falling down and releasing toxin into the water.

Carbon will not removed the toxin, it will take a lot  and the corals is affected immediately.

Those tooth corals, lobo, blasto, trachy, favia, favites, scoly ect will be affected.

Remove the paly from the tank and you can put back after the tank stable

Shoot that top pic is nice......dare I ask how much

It is @ 275.00 currently on facebook auction

Do you allow visitors or do you only sell through eBay?

Walk in retail hours Fri & Sat 10am - 1pm

Alien Krakatoa

I think CO2 is only one grade for all. The major supplier in this area is Air Gas that supply many wholesalers/retailers in any industries that requires CO2.

O2 does come in medical high purity grade.

GB Goldies and I am sure there are other names for it. I think PZ called it Princess Toadstool.

It has been around for a while now and regularly available on new mariculture pod mix in with other zoa.

Will grow to about dime size polyp.

They sure look nice in your care.

Thanks Dan.

Where do you auction them on fb?

 

 

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Frags Auction Place

Official SPS Frag Swap Page

Official Collector STFU Auctions

Are those all on Ebay?? I see a few that need in my tank!

Some on ebay some on FB auctions and we are open Fri & Sat 10am - 1pm for walk in retail.

Thank you, Rudy, for posting my holiday wish list.  I'm forwarding the link to my husband now...

You're welcome Holly, hope you get them all :-)

This is an incredible Montipora Setosa that showing multicolor blotch. It was just a standard setosa when we received it.

Are you guys thinking of something small-ish, like bringing corals to a meeting, or something larger like the Bob Moore thing? 

 

I always thought it would be fun to do more like a "trade show" where there are booths, speakers, raffles, etc., on a much smaller scale than MACNA, but larger scale than hobbiests trading at a club meeting.  Proceeds would fund the event and any extra would go to Tank for Teachers.  We could have frags for sale/swap, equipment, art booths, a "used-but-working" booth (where people donate old equipment and the money would go to TFT), food vendor, and stuff like that. 

 

That might not be what you were thinking though, Rudy.  And there would be some significant huddles doing something like that, too--the first being that we don't really have someone coordinating TFT. 

Yes, I am thingking more inline as Bob Moore Show. Not as in scale off but more like having a table for vendors / individuals to sell or trade frags.

We can start small here with 4 major local vendors plus individuals that would like to open up a booth for a day or two days event.

Each seller will have a 4x8 table.

We can invite reefers from Pacific NW to come.

We need to start somewhere as a local event and eventually it will get better every year. It doesn't have to start as a grand scale show.

I was at the early MACNA show in KY and at that time only about 6 livestock / dry goods vendors cramped in 10'X10' room.

It is more like an experience for us all and if we have this going regularly than we can take on a show like MACNA here someday.

Our area has Koi Show and Reptile Show as regular yearly event, not sure it these shows still going till now.

It is time for us reefers to have a yearly local show.

It is about time we should start one!

Plenty of good stuff locally to be shared and traded.