Jump to content

Blue Z Reef

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    1,698
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Posts posted by Blue Z Reef

  1. When I click the email link I get this:

     

     

    Fatal error: Call to a member function indexScreen() on a non-object in /home/pnwmasin/public_html/admin/applications_addon/other/subscriptions/modules_public/subscriptions/paysubs.php on line 563

     

    I am using the mobile version in Safari on my iPhone so not sure where to go in there.

  2. I use to take a jar of minced garlic and use a syringe to suck out the juice. If top it off with a bit more water when done and do it again next time. I wouldn't worry too much about feeding garlic 24/7, some recent studies showed it was actually bad in the long run for the fish. I don't bother anymore unless it's part of a pellet food and my fish have no issues and crazy appetites!

  3. Will the gfci make sure the heater dosnt over heat the tank?

    No but if it's glass and blows up it won't continually shock your tank :)

     

    A controller of some sort is the only way to prevent them from going rogue. There are cheaper versions if you don't want to buy a whole system controller. Or as stated before, find one with a built in external controller and separate probe.

  4. I am currently using a Won Pro-Heat Titanium Heater with an external temperature control that I am very pleased with. There are some very good glass heaters available.

     

    The rule of thumb when selecting a heater has been 5W per gallon. I'd say get a 150W for your 38 gallon. If you have too low a wattage, it the heater will need to remain on a longer time. Too high a wattage, the tank can easily overheat if the thermostat malfunctions. Any comments on this?

    I've always had the best luck with titanium heaters that have the external controller. The most ideal is obviously having a secondary backup like a controller shutting it off if temp swings too high. It's unfortunate that the fault on them causes heaters to stay on full boar.

     

    I personally don't run heaters at all. My house stays between 68-72 year round and my tank stays about 76. No reason to run one and have any risk has always been my thinking. Corals adapt fine to the slow temp swings (larger water volume also helps).

  5. Yeah that's a pretty broad estimate. Most search for the deals and some buy brand new, just depends on your budget. Catching someone doing a full tank/out of hobby shutdown usually nets the best deals on a whole package.

     

    If you want new, email Oceans By Design for a custom quote, pricing I recieved from them was very reasonable (for the tank, I would DIY the stand if you can).

     

     

    As far as the kole tang, totally fine in my opinion. He's got a 4' long tank to roam in for now. We've all seen WAY WAY WAY worse lol!

  6. I've got a RO Elite with the new line of white DC pumps, they are amazing, you won't be disappointed! Super quiet, controller is nice with the 15/60 min feed delays and nice build quality overall.

  7. I did this once recently and it leaked. I'm sure it's possible to still get away with it but it's definitely not like new stuff. I ended up using epoxy around the outside of those joints to seal them (2 part). Leaks were smaller pinhole ones but were in a few spots. May be worth a redo or epoxy safety sealing.

  8. Could you just brute trash can the fish and everything and re-seal the seams?

     

    If you don't want sand in the whole tank I've seen people take a Tupperware and fill it with sand for a "wrasse" bed of sorts.

  9. Can you find someone else to either loan you a second unit or get some water from? I would not do tap, as mentioned you will be chasing that down for way longer than it's worth in time savings. I know in Vancouver the TDS is 120ish out of my tap, definitely don't wanna dump that in the tank!

     

    I'd offer you some RODI water if you want to come with jugs and get it. Forgetting where you are located.

  10. Apex is a great choice and can always be upgraded. Lots of guys on here run them and can help you get it going.

     

    I run a reefkeeper lite which works fine until you start wanting more control, but it does all the basics. I pre-ordered Archon to upgrade it which will make it more like an Apex.

     

    Can't really go wrong either way, I'd just keep your eyes open and you may be able to snag a used one and save some money.

  11. It's funny looking stuff when you dump it in! Under actinics it almost looks like yellowish radiator fluid.

     

    My DC skimmer has a 1 hour feed off mode so I just leave it off for the hour after dosing. I do notice great polyp extension. I dose this in addition to acropower so I also dose 3-4 times a week 5ml.

  12. I've been using a bottle recently. Can't really say for sure but my tank is pretty stripped of nutrients so I've been doing a lot more than just that to bring them back. I used it once in the past on a different tank and had no negatives from it. Lots of people talk it up, so I figure it's worth using.

     

    Only person I've heard complain was a guy on R2R who said he thought it was causing Molybdenum in his tank. However no one really knows if that's a bad thing or not. Triton test is the only one that shows it.

  13. Pete - one reason you may have had higher waste rates is not enough pressure. If your plumbing can't keep up a booster pump should be used to increase efficiency.

     

    As far as sewer rates go, I have mine in the garage and it dumps waste water into my pond out front. Have also used it to water the lawn.

     

    In general if your spending about $180 on a RODI and $40 on Kent salt the break even price is going to happen at around 300 gals depending on water cost where you live (and not counting filter costs). For people with nanos and smaller tanks, this probably doesn't make sense. For me with a 210 chugging through topoff water I like the convenience and piece of mind that I can have water ready in my garage for anything that happens.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...