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Burningbaal

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Everything posted by Burningbaal

  1. You can start by putting the first set of things in a classifieds posting (different section of the forum). Take a close photo of each piece, or at least a picture of a few and label them by refusing the photo in paint). As for pricing, a decent guess might be too find a similar piece online or in a store and expect to get half of that price. That can be pretty hard to find if you've got bigger showpiece corals, butt is pretty useful for smaller pieces. If you can imagine how many pieces it might get fragged in to, you could probably take the price per frag at a store and expect less than half (somebody had to do a ton of work to frag it). Fish are probably easier to find online comparison. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  2. Corals. First, find buyers for the most sensitive things, especially that are was"easy" to remove. Clipping an acro off a rock is almost certainly easier than catching a wrasse or tang. Once all the sensitive corals are gone, you can do melev's trick to pull all the rocks for easy fish catching (put the rock back in right away). So fish go second, after sensitive corals. Then you sell the rest of the livestock, maybe throwing in some cuc with fish sales, rock/sand is last unless you sell a specific rock with a coral or something. Then sell the equipment/accessories don't even post the equipment for sale until the tank is dry Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  3. Seems like as long as you can get the detritus clean, it'd be fine. I'd be a tad nervous about buildup in all the areas under/behind the rock, but maybe it can be blown loose with a little maxijet before big water changes? or sucked out with a 1/2" siphon tube? Otherwise, I think it'd be really cool and want to see the pictures!
  4. Seems to me things always sell easier piece by piece, and probably more $$$ too. When I broke down my 90 years ago, the guy who took it ended up with massive deaths of livestock and still seems to have profited considering the postings I saw him make here and the price I agreed to sell it for. I expect it would sell faster and get you more money if you sell it piece by piece, but that does thanks take more work on your part, and I guess it may be longer before the last thing sells. Just my $0.02 Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  5. Oh, and not all the hitchhikers on that frag were pests...I find this little brittle star as well, hopefully he stays healthy and reproduces... Though I'll almost never know either way Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  6. Now we're coming along! Went to@barrierreeftc today for the first time. I was hoping for a cleaner goby or royal Gramma, but had in the back of my mind that a green-polyp leather or neon green cabbage would be perfect first corals for the tank. Didn't find the fish (also didn't ask, I might have just not found them), but found BOTH corals there! I gave my 4yo daughter her choice between the two and she wanted the toadstool, so we bright it home with five more trochus snails. First picture is after a 3hr acclimation (taking no chances), 15 minute float for temperature, stop-aiptasia blasting (I saw one) and a valonia bubble removal, followed by 15 minutes in revive and an accidental scrape on a rock...oops! Go figure it's unhappy. Also, no blame to the store, it's impossible to keep everything at bay in a retail environment. That's why I inspect carefully while acclimating and have things like stop-aiptasia on hand. Next picture you can see a few sparkles as it thinks about extending polyps. Then I did a 20% water change and it closed right back up. Wah-wah. But then, just now... The last picture...yay! Can't wait to see it tomorrow! Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  7. There are 10lb bottles. I believe the cost difference is less than the size. I'd expect to spend less than double on a refill for a tank twice the size Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  8. So great! I am thinking about CRA for the build I'm hoping to do next year. Probably a 6x2x2 180, but with a weird-long overflow to accommodate a surge. You happy? Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  9. https://blog.marinedepot.com/education-center/charts-diagrams/durso-herbie-bean-animal-overflow great visual for how each works
  10. Your might be thinking of the bean animal overflow. It uses one as the siphon and one (durso-ish) as the trickle and the third is a true emergency, it should be dry unless something goes wrong with the others. That's why you want it loud Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  11. I think my little 29 will be ready for its first coral in a few weeks and I'd like to start with a green-polyp toadstool or a cabbage coral. I hear there's even a neon green cabbage coral that Tidal Gardens has and I'd be especially interested in that one. Let me know, even a teeny frag would be appreciated. If you're interested, I have a giant bottle of brightwell magnesium additive I'll never use up, some extra rock, and some random old equipment kicking around, or I can toss a few bills your way, either way. the catch is I'm up by Seattle, not sure when I'll be down toward the willamette valley, and if I have to pay $100 for shipping, I can just buy from an etailer...
  12. sounds about right. I figure since I'll have an independent manifold pump, I'll just use that instead of the return, but that's not a big difference. I think it will all work great with one exception: there will undoubtedly be some larger debris that I'm trying to clean out of the sump as well, things like vermetid casings or whatever. I can scrape them off while I'm doing all of this, so that's easy. But: they'll clog the intake of the pump, and if they don't, they'll probably damage the pump. I'll need some way to screen out the larger debris and, preferably, also capture that debris for real removal...
  13. good point about detritus because of rocks in the fuge. With the elevated fuge, it'll be a little hard to work up there...I should have some space in the sump's stock tank and can put the rocks there instead. When I want to remove detritus and do a larger water change, I can turn off the returns and manifold pumps, swish the rocks around in the sump (could even run a single surge to over-fill the sump so I've got more swishing space), then do the siphoning and the water change. Come to think of it, I'll tweak my manifold plan. The idea was to have a big outlet on the end of the manifold for larger water changes (manifold pump is outside the return section, so it has access to tons of water). But I think I'll make a point to have the output hose for that be fairly flexible so I can use it to blast detritus out of the rock and corners of the sump before the water change. Then also, I can have the input to the manifold be a long hose so I can suck detritus out of the sump as I'm doing the water change. I could even add a three-way ball valve so I can switch between an open intake on the manifold for normal operation vs a hose intake for suction. In total, a very slight but very meaningful tweak: put the rocks in the sump instead of the fuge (no light and detritus easier to access), add suction hose to manifold for detritus sucking. Revised water change idea: regular auto water changes, maybe 1% every other day Quarterly: Run the powerheads at their maximum rate that doesn't make a sand storm, probably for a couple hours. Do a surge to get water volume into sump and help clear the display of detritus. Turn off returns before it refills the fuge open the output from manifold to blow detritus of rocks in the sump, stick rocks on a mat/the ground temporarily put the output of the manifold in a filter sock and use the input hose to suck all the detritus out of the sump (and into the sock) Move the output hose to the floor drain until desired volume is drained (maybe 30-55 gallons), removing the filter sock, probably just trash it (this is a rare maintance @ 1x per quarter). start adding the new saltwater from the barrel. As soon as the sump level is high enough, turn on the display's return, leaving the fuge low until all water has been replaced.
  14. Not derailing, this is the kind of conversation I was hoping for! I figured I'd have two 5g buckets just sitting in the 150g stock tank, each filled up with about 4g (~50lbs) of sand. That's 100lbs of DSB, I thought it would probably help, especially because almost all of it would be anoxic and therefore (hopefully) full of denitrifying bacteria. I'm not too worried about getting it rolling, but figured creating a circuit of water flow is probably good and it would hopefully keep the bottom a little cleaner. I'm thinking I'll put a couple 200w black-box purple lights above the stock tank, run about 300-500gph through the returns, and maybe another 500-1000gph with powerheads near the bottom, maybe even a small maxspect gyre if I'm feeling up for it. The Triton method argues for 10x water movement in the fuge to minimize detritus, so with a full stock tank, I'm going to shoot for about 1500gph of movement in the fuge (about 1/3 as the return). I'm planning to stick the buckets of sand in the round end, with the overflow on the opposite end and have the lights over and flow in the middle section. FWIW, my return to the fuge will be via two pipes, one carrying about 150gph and the other carrying up to about 500gph (probably turned down a tad), they'll come over one side and the powerheads low on the opposite side. I'm hoping to keep high enough flow in the fuge that detritus doesn't build up there, but expect I'll probably do a periodic siphoning of its bottom and the sump's floor, though I'd rather just add a powerhead and not think about it anymore I don't think I'll ever have too much circulation in the fuge or sump, I think we're normally just not willing to spend money for circulation there, but if it removes the need for siphoning, I'm all for it. A simple koralia powerhead can probably fix a lot of the problems in smaller sumps, and for larger ones...a gyre can be added for the cost of a bucket or two of salt and you'll have unstoppable circulation I figure it's the chaeto's job to soak up the nutrients as that detritus breaks down, and I'd rather turn those lights on more and harvest it more often than siphon detritus. Though I expect I'll have to use something like VCA's maxijet vacuum attachment a couple times a year to clean up.
  15. interesting thinking...I appreciate the discussion. I'm been thinking I'd stick a couple powerheads near the bottom of the fuge, pointing the opposite direction than the return (say the return is pushing north and the powerheads are pushing south). The main idea was to create a little gyre so the chaeto tumbles, but maybe it'd also keep detritus stirred off the bottom. But the return should be low enough the detritus can't really go through to the display. Also, I've got a blog post coming out soon regarding an idea to keep a pair of HDPE buckets in the stock tank fuge as a remote DSB, which should be a good place to soak up nitrates and phosphates, and hopefully do some denitrification, all with little risk of a DSB implosion.
  16. When I ran the bean animal (similar, just adds the emergency with that third drain), I turned an elbow at the sump's water surface with the idea it would help noise, but I kinda don't think it makes a difference... It's pretty quiet as long as it's barely a trickle. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  17. everything that's already been said. Plus, are there any lps or neme's that might be stinging them? is there a powerhead that might be blasting them really hard? But really, if you're not sure about all the parameter's stability over the past 2-6 weeks, then it could well be those things. I've recently downloaded (for $5) the Reef Trace app (android, but it's also iPhone) to track parameters and really like it; I can easily see my current parameter's value vs the previous entry for that parameter, and a chart showing the history of multiple parameters...awesome way to see if they are actually stable. It's on thing to be in a 'good' range, it's better to know they aren't changing.
  18. You're right if it wasn't a typo on my part...PO4 was 0.075. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  19. all three fish still alive tonight, firefish is hiding. all four snails (three nass, one trochus) are moving around. Looking more closely, I probably shoul dhave got more than one trochus...I hadn't noticed any algae before, so I figured I'd get the one 'just because', figuring there'd be something he could eat (since I had barely-detectable No3 and PO4). By the time I got him acclimated, I realized there was a thin film of something on the highest rocks. It's doing a good job cleaning up that top rock (where I put it) but I might need a couple more. I'll probably add a longnose hawkfish and a couple more trochus, and presumably some redlegs at some point. I'm hoping to find a green-polyp toadstool frag at some point as the first coral, or maybe a colorful gorgonian. Ive been dosing MB7 and live rock enhance, plus the weird history of the quasi-dry rock and a new bag of arag-alive, I think I'm in good shape. tests today are 1.026, 0.075 PO4, 1335Mg, 430 Ca, 7.7dKH, and I still need to no NO3. as of yesterday there was no ammonia nor nitrite and the ammonia badge reads zero (more sensitive than my API kit, in theory)
  20. Did you think you were commenting on a different tank thread? This tank had been a disaster to set up... I've probably had $200 of dead animals in this darn nano, maybe more. This thread started yesterday ago and the tank is barely starting now... Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  21. That chromis is doing great and the nassarius snails are still getting around. I went to Denny's pet world in Kirkland (Totem Lake) today and was much more impressed that the store in late City. Brought home a bangaii, firefish, and a trochus. Other than the firefish hiding a lot, all seems well Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  22. My jbj died so I've been just flipping a switched outlet to turn on the little eheim that's the top of pump. Today I forgot to turn it off and had a catastrophe, probably 4 extra gallons of rodi in my 29, salinity down to 1.020, water everywhere. I think I got it taken care of, back up to 1.025 pretty quick, I'll top off with salt tomorrow to nudge up a hair more. But no more of this! Anyone have a functioning ATO they're willing to sell? I want ready to drop >$100 on this right now Good news is the chromis is still happy and the new bangaii today send to be well. The firefish is apparently hiding. The trochus snail is munching away Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  23. thanks for your feedback! I was thinking the QT could go under the display...it's the only thing (so far) to put under there except maybe the return lines on their way to the display, and I can see it from the fish room side (obviously) as well as from the display side if I open a door. I figured a 40B or my current 29 would fit under there with a few inches to spare under the 30" stand...what am I missing? Also: there are three 200w heaters planned, one in the display (backup) and two in the sump, but maybe I should add more? you have 400g of water or 400 gallon display? if that's your water volume, I'm probably needing around 800 watts. In any case, I want all my normal heating in the sump, plus a backup heater (probably insufficient, but I don't want lots of eyesores and I figure one good heater there is better than none if the heart (return) won't pump) in the display. I figured I'd chuck an extra 50w in the elevated fuge, cause...why not? thanks again!
  24. still accounting for all 4 new inhabitants as of this evening. I'm planning to go to a new LFS this weekend to find a new fish or three. Hawkfish? flasher/fairy wrasse? cardinal? royal gramma? no algae yet, so I won't be getting a lawnmower blenny nor trochus yet. that algae is gone since I did the giant water change to bring the salinity down. When it comes back, I'll pick up some trochus snails. If they can't handle it, then it'll be a blenny
  25. Hey all, We're expecting a major remodel to the basement next year and I've found a spot in the plans to put the system of my dreams in I'm planning a 6x2x2 display (180g) with a 150g stock tank as a sump and a 150g stock tank as a refugium with a (hopefully) clever little answer to let the refugium also supply a 50g surge into the display at will--key here is that I can enable/disable the surge whenever I want to minimize noise/etc. anyways, I'm putting together the plan on a tumblr blog as it seems like a nice place to keep the thoughts together in a stream instead of broken up in a forum. Also, it should provide a place for questions/discussion relevant to each concept, almost like their own threads. I thought about doing it in a build thread, but that really seems like the wrong place since I haven't bought the first piece of gear yet. But: please feel free to comment on the posts and/or here/etc. I want all the feedback I can get! https://burningbaal.tumblr.com/
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