reefcam

look in your end-caps.. you might not have good connection and is causing hot spots in the connectors... I'm assuming its the ends that caught on fire. If you put a new bulb in the connector, listen for cracking sounds... that's a good indication it does not have a good connection.. I had some T5 connectors that melted due to poor connectivity.

I hope it's better than the one that I have on my last post.. it's a PDF with 4 pt font... c'mon seriously? I e-mailed them asking for one because my package didn't come with one and they replied a replacement is $10. Okay.. fine.. but to replace something is to have it first then you lose it and need a replacement. But I never had it, so I never lost it, so I should never have to replace it... so wouldn't I be entitled to one? Okay. good device, but crappy support... well maybe that's too harsh... so-so support.. so once you give them your money.. don't expect much.. and thus this forum support.

Was also wondering if the manual included hard to read? My package did not come with a manual, so I downloaded one from Neptune Sys. I have to put the magnification to 150X or more to read the text. http://www.neptunesys.com/ApexManual_rev4.01A.pdf

Glad this ended up with a Happy Ending... No more pocketing stuff you pick off the floor at people's houses. Unless it's lint, then keep it. racefan, if it'll make you happier, I can take my Apex controller to a pawn shop and get an estimate and you can give me the estimate + 10%... I'll even ship the [language filter] thing back to my house.

What is the ideal water pressure needed for the 150 GPD membrane?

Alex, I though you have an iPhone? Get the Aquanote app.

I have always wanted one, but didn't want one that just monitor my tank.. Wanted one that also allow me to control it remotely. I have it for controlling the lights on my tank for now... will have to get more power bars for the pumps and the other stuff. I'll need to build a probe rack so I can get the probes installed in my sump. Thanks Frank and Beth for the offer. Will let you know. I also bought the breakout box so I can add water sensors to notify me of any leaks.

Thanks Frank for setting me correct on the controller that Grassi had. I finally have the electrical part hooked up and it's nice that I can control the lights remotely and from my iPhone. And the part I think it's great is the ability to tell me how much electricity is being consumed by each power bar. Very nice... can't wait to have it all hooked up. Jim

wow... read to the last page and still no ring... Frank, Sheri hope it turns up somewhere... you guys are great and have been to both of your house in Portland and Beaverton. Wanted to come last weekend, but Bridge to Brew run was going. Maybe I'll keep to invited only meeting here. Unfortunately, limiting the meetings to members only will not stop this.. many of you are old members like me (except I'm not a paying member) and have heard of this before. It's just not often we heard of these issues. I recommend those of you who know each other, keep an eye out on others that are new. Jim

just some input as I had to look at diffrent sites and the packages are different. What are the options are you including with the price. For Example, the Apex for $404, does that include the base module, display, pH probe (lab or standard grade), temperature prop, EB 8, etc. This will make it easier to compare. Different sites have different packages. I paid a bit more as I went with lab grade probes which cost more.

cool thanks... a repeater would be much easier..

Did you use a Wireless repeater?

dang it.. just missed this post, or would have gone in on it... just bought one.

Just ordered the Apex controller... thanks everyone for your feedback. Now I just have to get a network port to my tank area... too bad it doesn't do wireless.

can you program the controller through the web interface? Apex that is.

oh boy.. there goes my tax refund. Brad, the RKE SL1 or SL2 has ports that you can hook up a float switch or a leak detector. They only sell the float switch. But I'm suspecting the ports are a simple open/close circuit detector. My main goal is to find a controller that I can monitor remotely. But mostly with water leaks, or lights not coming on, or need to turn them on to see if there are any issues, etc. My system is currently automated. If water overflows due to the return pump, a sensor will shut off the pump, but I won't know it until I get home. And same with water on the flow. Thanks for the input.. I'll be getting an Apex soon!!!

an Apex huh.. ok.. will look into that. Does it have a port to also detect for water? THat's one feature I like to have.

After seeing Alex's (grassi) Reefkeeper, it got me thinking more about getting one for my tank so I can monitor the tank. I'm thinking of getting the Reef Keeper Elite w/ Net port and another additiona 4-plug strip. Aside from that, what else should I get that you find useful? Thanks Jim

I have used either Marine or Plumber Goop from Home Depot to seal up leaks in PVC joints. It's basically a heavy duty epoxy.

you can, but then there's not point in using the filter. The RO membrane will strip a lot of dissolved solids from you main water and giving you cleaner water and the rest that didn't past through the membrane is out the waste. You can drink the waste water if you like or water plants or I've heard people use it for their laundry. Still cleaner than the orignal water.

you can upgrade the membrane and flow restrictor to 150GPD and get more output from it. Pure Water Club sells it.

[language filter] Frank. Sorry to hear. But if Solar World pans out, they are close to Westside Aquarium. I drive by Solar World on the way to work.

But there are sooooo many of them... after I glue them down, might have to pay another visit. :eek: Oh Tim, the Naso Tang is doing great in the tank. Might have to hit you up for a male.

picked up 5 yesterday and very nice size too.

I'm no AV expert or guru, but from all the different HDMI cables I have, they all look the same to me on my TV. I have a 65" DLP and all pix looks crystal clear. I have cables that cost $15 to $180 (Monster) and they look the same. I don't see any picture degradation, but the images are moving to fast for me to pick out a pixel that is off. Maybe it looks good under an ocilloscope, but I don't watch my TV through that. But if you are running say 100ft of HDMI cable through a wall where there's electrical cable, then I would spend more for the shielding. But for up to 3ft - 6ft, I don't believe you will see any issues. But what do I know.. I stare at my tank all day and that's HD.