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HELP with new tank build


J-Dog

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Well everyone, it's time for me to upgrade to a larger tank. My 65 gallon has been sold and I think I am going to get a 180 gallon acrylic (maybe a 200, but I am limited on space in the room it's going). My focus is for the system to be as silent as possible, and after talking to wanareef, it looks like I am going to use the Bean Animal system for my overflow, which is external. This will be my first attempt at building my own system, so I am pretty lost when it comes to what I need to do. That is why I am starting this thread, to get help and advice on what I need to make this the best tank setup I could possibly build. I could use advice on everything from plumping, sumps, equipment, lighting, and everything in between. I want this to be a mixed reef tank, with a focus on SPS. No advice will be turned down, so please let me know what has worked best for u and help me put together a successful build. Once I start getting parts and pieces, I will start a build thread to keep everyone posted on my progress. Thanks again (rock2)

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I'm planning to do a bean animal in my future 90, with a C2C overflow box. my thought (especially in your 6 foot tank) is to do the plumbing in duplicate.

 

mostly, it will tend to keep the overflow box cleaner. the thought is: run a full siphon at the ends of the box, the dursos near the center (12" or so apart) and the emergencies in between. My thought is that it would prevent dead space in the box by having water draining from 4 different locations at all times. and of course, with ball valves on the full siphons, you can still set them all just how you want (so there's a trickle through the dursos)

 

just my $0.02

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I know.....I already talked to Kim and Beth about there system, but it wouldn't work. The space I'm putting my tank is very awkward and will need to have a custom stand and canopy built in order to fit. I was gonna jump all over their system until I found out it wouldn't fit (sad).

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I'm planning to do a bean animal in my future 90, with a C2C overflow box. my thought (especially in your 6 foot tank) is to do the plumbing in duplicate.

 

mostly, it will tend to keep the overflow box cleaner. the thought is: run a full siphon at the ends of the box, the dursos near the center (12" or so apart) and the emergencies in between. My thought is that it would prevent dead space in the box by having water draining from 4 different locations at all times. and of course, with ball valves on the full siphons, you can still set them all just how you want (so there's a trickle through the dursos)

 

just my $0.02

 

 

I have no idea what u just said (nutty)

 

This is all new to me, so I need one of those books "Reef tank setups for Dummies".....that's how lost I am when I read your helpful post, sorry. If there is anyway u could make your explanation a little more simple, it would really help, thanks.

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I don't know how it would work with what you're trying to do' date=' but Kim and Beth are selling there 150 gallon tank. I'm pretty sure it's acrylic and it's a good deal.[/quote']

 

Thanks for the plug.... but this system is sold! First person that set eyes on it at the meeting snagged it!!!

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I have no idea what u just said (nutty)

 

This is all new to me, so I need one of those books "Reef tank setups for Dummies".....that's how lost I am when I read your helpful post, sorry. If there is anyway u could make your explanation a little more simple, it would really help, thanks.

 

 

Google is your friend (clap)

 

durso stand pipes

bean animal overflow

herbie overflow

coast to coast overflow

divorce attorney (scary)

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You can stop by here again' date=' mine is a BeanAnimal design and take some pictures, do you have the link to the original BeanA thread, it explains it very well[/quote']

 

Thanks Steve, u are the man! I would love to come pick your brain on your entire setup....are u free next week? I'm off all week after monday, so let me know. Your system is what I'm setting my goal as (rock2)

 

 

Google is your friend (clap)

 

durso stand pipes

bean animal overflow

herbie overflow

coast to coast overflow

divorce attorney (scary)

 

reefnjunkie, do u got any other terms I could look up for more info? I've already decided on my overflow, but could still use help on all the other parts. Or just let me know what kinda stuff u like on your setup. I'm trying to avoid all the little mistakes that make setup a drag, thanks!

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Thanks for the plug.... but this system is sold! First person that set eyes on it at the meeting snagged it!!!

 

 

Snagged indeed! Thanks for the great deal ladies!

 

Rashaan, As far as advice for your tank goes, do not go cheap on anything if you dont have to. Its nice knowing that you wont have to upgrade any time soon. For example, lighting. If you can afford a nice fixture or setup (however you end up doing it) go for it, lighting aside from filtration is one of the most important things in your system.

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Snagged indeed! Thanks for the great deal ladies!

 

Rashaan, As far as advice for your tank goes, do not go cheap on anything if you dont have to. Its nice knowing that you wont have to upgrade any time soon. For example, lighting. If you can afford a nice fixture or setup (however you end up doing it) go for it, lighting aside from filtration is one of the most important things in your system.

 

Thanks for the advice Josh. I know lighting is important and that's why I wanna go with metal halides on this tank (if my room can handle the heat). I know everyone is jumping on the LED bandwagon, but I want to go with something that has been used for years with great success. Danik also told me to try an ATI T5 fixture, so that could be another option if the MH's don't work out. The thing about halides is that I know nothing about what to buy. I know I need bulbs, reflectors, and ballasts.....but I have no idea what kind to get or what stuff would work the best. This is why I started the thread, to get peoples opinions on what works best.

 

 

I have a bean animal overflow on my tank as well' date=' and love it. You are welcome to check mine out since we live so close, but Steve's overflow is much easier to view than mine.[/quote']

 

Thanks Brandon. I would love to stop by just to see how u plumbed your system. I need all the help I can get, so the more I can see, the better. PM me and let me know when u have some free time.

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love this

 

I got this idea from wanareef (last pic), he did it on his build and its a great addition- IMO

 

Looking back I would not run a manifold like I did, it restricted the water to much, I will at some point remove all the plumbing and redo it using just larger PVC and "T''s" where each "pipe" coming off of a T will feed whatever I want or route to where ever, but this will be part of it (the JG part). As it is now coming right out of the return pump it goes into a 4 way manifold (looked like a good idea), 1 pipe feeds 1 return into the tank, another feeds the other side of my return, the 3rd was going to run my frag tank (changed those plans) and the 4th was going to run an algae scrubber, that I may still do.

 

You can see below the 3rd and 4th that basiclly are hooked up with a true union in the closed position-just sitting there being wastedDOH!(nutty)

 

Manifold BAD-way to much restriction-terrible idea, did I say terrible yet (scratch) for those that run them they have to realize it is creating backflow pressure from restiction, I suppose it does not matter if your pump is 6500 GPH and yuare only needing 3000 GPH

 

here is a picture of what not to do-IMO

IMG_3334.jpg

 

anyway off the soapbox and back to something I found to be very useful

 

Basiclly I threaded 3 JGuess valves (4 or 5 would have been great, you never know what you may want to add) off the return, 1 feeds the Ca Reactor, 1 feeds the phosban, and the other is used to acclimate since I dont run carbon anymore- dunno maybe I may hook it back up-

 

IMG_3333.jpg

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Sorry for the lack of clarity, glad other people have contributed. The bean animal setup is three drains from the overflow box, one with a ball valve that is adjusted so it drains almost all the water (full siphon), one that drains the remainding bit of water with an airline that pulls constant air to make it silent but that will get under water if the water level rises for a full siphon (first backup) and a third drain that is usually dry, but works as a failsafe for the other two. Its usually considered the most fool-proof and most silent overflow system you can do.

 

Also, assuming a constant gph going through the overflow, the wider the edge (that the water is moving from the display to the overload box) is, the thinner the stream of water. Generally the thinner the stream, the better because you're getting the lipids and proteins off the surface of the display and into the sump where the Skimmer can remove it. Thinner overflow stream means more efficient skimming.

 

There's going to be a ton of other advice, but skimming and lighting will definitely be key.

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I'm going to agree with danik' date=' I have an ati sunpower fixture and it rocks my corals socks off. They are great, probably the best bang for the buck, and dont make a lot of head.[/quote']

 

What would be the best size fixture for a 60" long tank? Would u use a 48" fixture or a 60"?

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I'll be putting an 8bulb 4ft tek fixture over my 90 gallon' date=' I'd defense do a 60" fixture unless you plan on low-light things at the sides. And I wouldn't have the fixture be much less wide (front-back) than the tank, maybe a 6"difference at most.[/quote']

 

Those ATI fixtures ain't cheap....ouch!

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Thanks Steve, u are the man! I would love to come pick your brain on your entire setup....are u free next week? I'm off all week after monday, so let me know. Your system is what I'm setting my goal as (rock2)

 

You bet, anytime, I'm home on Tuesday and most days later in the afternoon. I would definitely see brandon and brad's (reefnjunkie) tanks, we all worked on similar designs and you can check out what each like/dislikes after things were up and running, bring a note pad and take pics, start writing things down. I still have all the pages bookmarked that i saved while looking on RC and other sites as I searched for ideas on my tank, best way to find and save the info!..........

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Those ATI fixtures ain't cheap....ouch!

 

You definately get what you pay for. And the 8 bulb fixture that brad was talking about selling would be great for your tank. I am going to be using a 4 ft fixture over my 5 ft tank when i get it going, just dont put any high light demand corals on the very far sides and you will be fine. With my t-5's i have sps growing fine on my sand bed which is about 22 inches from the water surface and probably 30 inches from the light. if you use good bulbs and keep your reflectors clean sps will do very well with t-5's.

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If you go with a 60'' tank and you want metal halide, I lit my 60x30 with two lumenbright larges and 400w bulbs. It was plenty of light after I measured with a PAR meter I almost considered going 250w. If you come over some time, check out the LED lights I'm messing with on my cold water tank. I think three or four of them would be BRIGHT and they run about $65-100 per. They are basically the same thing aquatic engineer (stew) posted about on the forum. Right now I'm lighting my low light cold water tank with two of them and it only draws 100w!

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For lights, you could go with 3x of these

 

18x18-Copy.jpg using the Phoenix DE 250w 14k and these bulbs are inexpensive than the SE's you can get them for $48ea

 

ask around these are great bulbs but don't go cheap and get those inexpensive ones, the only other bulb would be the Radium 20k nice and blue for color but slow on growth.

 

On that tank, you could go with an internal overflow and have it built so it's skinner so it won't take up too much room, that way you can get closer to the wall. Just an idea

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