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Anthias?


siskiou

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Anyone here keeping them, and if yes, what type?

 

Do they take each other out slowly but surely until there is only one or two left?

I've been reading that about both Anthias and Chromis, both species I've been considering for my 120G.

Would the Anthias or Chromis bother a Rainford's Goby?

 

I've read that Anthias are shy, but also the opposite, that they get aggressive toward newly added fish.

Do I have enough rock in my tank for Anthias?

P1030265.jpg

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Anthias are very pretty fish, but they are not the most hardy and they are very active and require feedings 2 to 3 times a day. I tried them and they did not survive. I bought 6 of the Lubbock's Fairy Wrasses the other day and they are just as pretty (if not more) then the anthias and they are quite hardy.

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Now anthias have a shorter digestive tract from what I read. That is why they need to be fed so regularly (many times a day). In the wild they "float" in the current eating plankton all day. The more often you feed, the less agressive they will get with each other, as well as with other life. Another thing is that it might be kinda hard for them to get on premade food. I know with the tuka (purple queen) they would only eat live brine. They were doing good, until I left for three days, and couldn't feed them and they didn't recover from that. Try to stick with the disbar, "tricolor" (there are a couple of species that they call tricolor), squaminses, and bartletts. Try to stay away from vantrallis (spelling), tuka, purple queen, and the purple square. They don't fair as well and are only for those who are experienced WITH ANTHIAS and want to spend time to feed them live until they are on frozen, at least.

 

Anthias wouldn't bother gobies in general because gobies are bottom dwellers adn anthias swim on the top of the water column.

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Anthias are very pretty fish' date=' but they are not the most hardy and they are very active and require feedings 2 to 3 times a day. I tried them and they did not survive. [/quote']

 

Sorry to hear that!

May I ask which type of Anthias you had?

Supposedly, the Bartletts and Hawaian are hardier and don't need several feedings a day.

 

Had two, one became jerky...very sad.

 

 

Best pic i could do:

 

DSCF6017.jpg

 

Thanks for the pic and too bad about the jumper!

It seems they need a covered tank.

 

Oh yeah' date=' you might want to make a large ledge for them to hide under. Just find a large flat piece and make it like a "roof." If something bothers them, they will retreat to their ledge for shelter.[/quote']

 

I have the feeling I may not quite have enough LR yet.

Any input on that? Did my pic make it into the post?

 

Thanks,

Susanne

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ive has the sunbursts and the squares they were great fish always schools and were always active never shy always up at the front. as for feeding i did feeding 2 times a day just for them they really liked lived food but the artic pods from reed are the best for them they work wild for it and is much easier to feed them with that then brines

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As Jansen stated, anthias generally float with the current eating plankton and other small organisms, i'm wondering why you think you need tons of LR to keep them? I'm planning on adding 3 sunburst anthias to my tank, i have maybe 1/4 the rock you do (although by the time i add them i'll have more). As long as they have their own hiding spot you will be fine.

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btw I really like the rock on the right there' date=' what kind is it?[/quote']

 

I bought it on ebay as "Totoka Rock", but it looks nothing like the pictures of the totoka I've seen.

I really like it, though, and stacking it up was a breeze.

And the price was a steal!

The seller hasn't had anything up ever since, sadly.

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Oh yeah, my bartletts jumped out of my tank as well. So a lid is a must. When I had my tuka anthias they would only eat that artipods from Reed Mariculture. So I would get a bottle of that to feed them first. Like I said about the live rock, just make like 3-6 ledges for the anthias to hide under and I think you'll be fine.

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Scott w. Micheal suggest ones that are 4-1/2 out of 5 for ease of keeping them...They are

Bartlett's 4ish (should be kept alone, unless in huge aquarium..good for deep or shallow water tanks)

Redbelted 4-1/2 (should be kept alone, less likely to fade in deep water tanks...needs ample and varied diet to maintain color)

lyretail 4-1/2 (should be kept alone, but if multiple are desired, then 1 male with 8 or more female in a large tank)

Redcheek 4-1/2

Problem with sunburst is that they are a deep water fish and do not do well with the high light that most people have over their tank...

 

Another that I notice is that, anthias tend to come from deepwater, which tends to be slightly cooler, they tend to like 78-80 degrees. and most people keep their tanks warmer. Does this mean that it will harm them, I do not think so, but something to keep in mind.

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I just want someone to figure out a way to use a dosing pump with acrtic pods from the fridge,,, how sweet would that be getting a drop of arctic pods every few hours....

 

I really like the Parvirostri anthias

anthias.jpg

 

I am sure you could simply hook up a thing like kent aqua doser. You might not be able to leave it alone for a week, but if you are home every day, it would work out well I would think...that is a good idea Joel.

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I think the airline would have to be very short, meaning the little fridge would have to be on a little shelf really close to the auto-feeder.

Otherwise the portion of food in the airline outside the refrigerator would go bad quickly.

It'd be great if the "holding tank" of the feeder could be refrigerated somehow!

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drill a hole in a small refridgerator and then make sure it has a tight seal at the hole using putty or caulk then have the air line in a bottle of the artic pods and a aqua medic dosing pump that sucks the pods out then puts them in the tank on a timer easy enough!

 

Thats a great idea, you can get a mini fridge for around 100 bucks...and it would not be hard to hook up...

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