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DIY Seio/Tunze stream - Lots of pics


impur

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Great Googly-Moogly!

 

I received my Octura 1435 today, and replaced the shaved 2035 I was running on a MJ600. Holy Schnikies! It pushed so much water it would tornado to the surface and blow bubbles throughout the tank! I'll have to shave this one too when I get my new MJ600 from DrF&S tomorrow... I should have ordered a MJ400 instead (censored)

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I don't see how you could have a MJ600 or stronger with one of these props within 6" of the surface of the tank without it tornado-ing. Do you guys with the mongo tanks put these dudes lower down?

 

EDIT: Hey, Impur... where are you finding the 2" to 1.5" ABS reducer? My local shops don't seem to stock them. A commercial plumbing supply store maybe (Like George Morland's)?

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  • 1 month later...

Is anyone else having reliability problems with their modded MJs? Mine are starting to have trouble restarting after a power cycle, they just stutter -- one will just stop dead once in a while. They've only been in the tank for a month or so, hopefully they are just gunked up... though that seems like a very short amount of time need de-gunking.

 

I'm looking forward to the Tunze Nano Streams...

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#1: MJ600 + shaved Octura 2035, using the original method

#2: MJ600 + Octura 1435, using the rigid airline through-the-magnet method

 

#1 was super reliable, always restarting no-problem. Now I have to kick-start it by raising it to the surface. This is a sign of too much prop, but it has been working just fine until recently.

 

#2 has never been quite right. It has a tendency to jsut stop dead intermittantly. I think I may try adding a nylon washer 'under' the impeller magnet, or maybe try making a new shroud... could be an alignment problem. A lot of people on RC seem to like the through-the-magnet method but I've had nothing but problems with it...

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I tried to make one of these and I cannot get them to work correctly. The prop will spin great out of water and then when you first put it in the water, but then any lower and it stops. If you raise it up to the surface it will start again. I have no idea why its doing this. I know that the impeller is straight because I bought the cover and top from the Maxi-mod site. The prop is the Dumas 3004 and I've tried it on the Maxijet 600 and 900.

 

Any ideas?

 

Rich

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Too much prop, H2O. I think I have a spare Octura 1435 I'll bring to the meeting tomorrow if you'd like; it should work fine on the MJ900. I'm running them on my MJ600s, and they seem a bit too much for them.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Should I get a MJ400 if it's going in my 29g? You guys make it sound like the 600 would be too much. If so...what parts should I use?

 

Umm...another question....you have any issues with snails crawling in and turning into seafood gumbo?

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I would go with either the 600 or 900 in your tank. Head to a local hobby shop and pickup a few smaller props. I think the 900 with an octura 1430 prop would do well in that tank.

 

There is no way a snail is getting into these things. The only opening has 1000-2000gph coming out of it!

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You sure it's not overkill? I don't have sps, just softies,lps and anemones. I'll try with the 600 then.

 

So from the mjmod website, this is the listing of parts...did you use all the parts, or did you do away with some?

 

One shroud with locking baseplate

One centering cap for the shroud

One vortex shield

One nylon washer

One Kapton thrust washer

One Octura 1435 prop

100mm” of 2.5mm 316 food grade stainless steel rod (cut to the right size for the mod)

6” of .180 OD/.102 ID Carbon Fiber tube

6" of .098 Carbon fiber rod

6” of Ridged airline tube

6” of acrylic rod for use as stopper

6” of soft airline

 

How would you use the acrylic rod as a stopper?

 

I would go with either the 600 or 900 in your tank. Head to a local hobby shop and pickup a few smaller props. I think the 900 with an octura 1430 prop would do well in that tank.

 

There is no way a snail is getting into these things. The only opening has 1000-2000gph coming out of it!

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You don't need the vortex shield or the thrust washers. You only need either the stainless steel rod or carbon fiber rod, not both. You only need either the carbon fiber tube, or the ridged airline tube. I'd just pick up the ridged airline tube from your LFS. You can get like 2 feet for a buck. You won't need the acrylic rod for the stopper, just use a small section of the ridged airline tubing or carbon fiber rod. You should already have the airline tubing, the black tubing that comes with the MJ works perfect.

 

For the stopper, see my pic. I used a small piece of carbon fiber rod. You can see it in the pic on the left just below the crossmember.

 

P1010025.jpg

 

 

If the prop starts in the wrong direction, it pulls out of the MJ, hits that stopper, and gets sucked back into the MJ going the right direction.

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