Lifer

Hanna checkers are highly regarded in general, particularly the alkalinity and phosphate series.  But I do think it depends the particular checker.  Their calcium checker (which I have) is prone to high sample to sample variability because the sample volume is so small (only 0.1 ml). This magnifies slight differences in the actual volume collected, resulting in high measurement error.  Higher sample volumes are more robust to small errors of this type.  There are good reviews out there for the particular test you are interested in.

Hey @Parzifal, I updated the original post and added a link to the PAR Mapper Tool.  Check it out and let me know what you think.  I've never really used Google Sheets before, and tried to make it a template so others could save it and modify it.  I'm keen on seeing if it actually works!

22 hours ago, Parzifal said:

Looks awesome.  Yes please.  Share it here so we can all benefit!

Ok. Will do!  I'll clean it up a bit and then post a link in the next day or two.

Link:

PAR Mapper Tool

After clicking the link, you should see a preview of the PAR Mapper in Google Sheets.  Click the "Use Template" Button in the upper right hand corner.  This will copy and save the template under your own Google profile. 

Instructions are provided with the PAR Mapper Tool.  Send me a PM with any issues or feedback.

Original Post Below:

I recently borrowed the club meter and wanted to map out my tank's PAR like on the BRS videos.  I recorded 20 PAR measurements in a 4 x 5 grid about 8 inches below the surface and then used interpolation to create this map in Google Sheets.  Red are higher-PAR hot spots, blue are lower-PAR cool spots, and white are average PAR values.  I have a T5 hybrid, and the mapping suggests that the front 2 tubes (ATI blue plus) are brighter than the back 2 (one ATI blue plus and one actinic).  The left LED puck is also brighter that the right one (despite identical settings).  This creates higher PAR on the left hand side of the tank and the hot spot in the left front.

I can share the Google Sheet if anyone is interested.  I've set it up to be fairly autmotated, so all you need to do is plug in your PAR values and the x,y location in the tank.

Sent PM on Hanna checkers.

I follow the Humble.Fish protocol:

https://humble.fish/quarantine/

Can't say it's saved every fish, but it has saved contamination of my DT more than once! 

I'm down!  I'm just starting to branch out into SPS, so this is perfect. Sending PM now.

Might have missed it, but what are the grab bag prices?

Please add me to the list.

I am a supporting member.

And btw, this raffle was a great reminder for renewing my membership!

My clowns are finally laying again after a tank move, so I'm going to try and hatch and rear some.  Anyone got an active rotifer and/or phyto culture that could get me jump started (not too far from Portland area)?  I've ordered starter kits from Florida Aquafarms previously, but thought I'd check with the club this time.

I love this forum for everyone's generosity. 

For example, I got some purple Monti from @shaywood, and he tossed in a couple of other frags just because!

I use to run a reverse light schedule in the summer when I had metal halides.  On about 6 or 7 pm, off at 2-3 am.  It reduced both house and tank heating during the day.  I don't need to do this anymore with hybrid t5/led.

And evaporative cooling with a fan on the water's surface is super effective.

I got this piece for a good price from another reefer thinking I could nurse it back to health.  It had some tissue die back.  So now what do I do?

I did a prophylactic dip in Reef Primer mostly for pests and have placed it low in the tank for now.

Do I just give it time and leave it alone?  Iodine-based dip?  Cut off parts that are dying back? What would you do?

One pic is under tanks lights.  The other is with a flash and better shows the die back areas.

Sold.  Please close.

An oldie but goodie.  This system has served me well for 13 years.  Finally upgraded to a Reefer 300XL.  Fee to a good home, but will accept donation/trade for other reef stuff.

-24 g Apauapod and stand.  Has seen better days, but still serviceable.  Tank is pretty scratched, as pic below shows.

- 150 Watt metal halide, Current USA Sunpod.

- AquaC Remora Pro.  Needs pump.

I'm keeping return pump, circulation pump, and heater. 

Tank is getting broken down today.

Located in Wite Salmon, Wa (near Hood River). I'm in pdx every now and then and could deliver at some point.

2 member tickets towards the icecap gyre.  Thanks!

Hey @Emerald525, I've been tracking your recent cycle thread, and was thinking that this Live Reef Rubble could be a good way to get all diversity benefits of live rock but none of the pest issues.

I'll take it.  Will PM you in a bit.

46 minutes ago, Lazyreefer said:

 

Thanks! That looks like a great set up, but we just got a Waterbox 20, so I'm no longer looking.

Bump.  Still looking.  Thanks!

7 minutes ago, hernandezj35 said:

I have a nuvo30L

Yes, I saw that. Thanks. I think it's too wide for the built-in desktop space I have (36" wide x 24" deep).  I think 24" wide max is needed to leave some working room around the tank.

Looking for as much of a package as possible - AIO with pumps, lights, skimmer, etc.

- No stand needed (going on a desk).

- Cube-ish dimensions preferred (i.e., no lagoons).

- with or without livestock / liverock.

- rimless preferred, but would consider rimmed.

- Prefer puck-type LED (e.g. AI Prime).

My 2 tickets for the generator please.

That's it, just poo!  Whew.  Never seen my frogspawns do this.  Thanks!