Trailermann

Gosh, it sure would be nice if each photo had a caption explaining what is in the photo. But I suppose most of the members already know the names. Also, what is an FB Auction?

Maybe a Christmas Tree

Anxious to see your further posts since I am in the market for solutions.

Wondering if there is enough real estate inside my stand after all the gear I have planned.

Barely used, 175 watt bulbs, mogul size bases and single ends. $50 OBO. I have shifted to LED and don't want to trash items that someone might be able to use.

I am planning on attending the next meeting which will be in Wilsonville. If you are coming, I can bring them. Price is now only $50, and $50 for three MH bulbs. I am listing them separately in case someone can make use of one or more of them. I paid $85 for each of the new ones. Please note that I am flexible with the pricing. See separate listing and photos.

For Sale status retracted.

zippo, nada, nilch. But the ballasts are very heavy and manufactured in the late eighties.

Excellent condition skimmer, handles up to 240 gallons. Only used for about 6 weeks while breaking in new tank. Asking $235, retails for $299.

Don't dispair. I have been hanging on to these for a long time, and maybe there won't be any takers prior to your next sojourn to the Rose City.

The original bulbs from years ago were Coralife 5500 K. I don't know what a M57 is.

Simplifying my set up. Need to make space for new cool stuff. I have two older but slightly used 15 watt Aquanetic sterilizers (which together in series make 30 watts of action) that have three new bulbs from Aqualogic. I also replaced all the gaskets. Some of the end caps are cracked due to age but there are no leaks. New bulbs alone cost me $ 54. So for a total of just $30, you can set up sterilization for your smaller tank. If my title line above appears slightly misleading, I thought it would be OK here in Oregon with our state's debatable ballot titles.

Selling these lights with bulbs only used about a month before my tank water temperature got too high. The ballasts are also slightly used. Since I bought the 175 watt fixtures in 1986, I figured I could get away with calling them "classic". These were very expensive state of the art items way back then, and I can't find anything similar on the web now. So, as a starting point, I am asking $100. I think I only have two and gave the third to Good Will a couple of years ago. Anyone interested?

Thanks for saving me some money. New ones cost over $100 filled.

Sign me up for a five pounder.

That helps. But does this website have a mobile app for my cellphone? If so, how do I find it? As for the upper right three bar icon, I only looked at all the choices in the drop down list, and never noticed the alarm bell and envelope icons that appeared at the very top. Still outstanding is where does one post questions about the website? Out of Bounds?

I can't figure out which forum is the right place to post a question on how to navigate in this website. Specifically, I know I have a private message waiting for me, but I can't find there this is hiding. there must be a simple answer to both questions. Please help. Standing by......

Don't know how the fluid was so bad. Maybe it has been off since I bought it a while ago. With Jeff's suggestion, I as now using distilled water to get a zero reading. Wondering if the commercial fluid set at 1.035 is more accurate or dependable? Wait, I just followed danlu_gt's link to Reefkeeper's article on refractometers. And then it occurred to me that I simply misread the meter's instructions. I was adjusting the meter to 1.035 rather than 1.026. Stupidly mislead by the reference to 35ppt. That mistake obviously is what lead me to weeks of frustration and weeks of harmful display tank conditions. Un-frigging-believable! But in my defense, why is there a continual reference to 35 ppt? Is there any instrument that measures in this way? I think I should just forget about it and move on.

For all those who followed along on my excruciating journey to solved the salt mix problem, I can now confirm that my refractometer calibration fluid was the culprit. I suspected that there was an easy answer, and I finally found it. Now to carefully and slowly bring my display water up to the right level.

As of 3:30 today, I might have solved my mysterious problems with magnesium, Fritz salt, and all my water parameters. In spite of triple checking my salinity, it appears that my calibration fluid was way off and my display water was 1.015! Now I'm adjusting the new salt water mix and hope that the three parameter results are finally in line. Next will be to slowly raise the salinity in the display tanks. If this does not work, I will give away all gear to the homeless and join a monastery.

Still working on it and have not given up. . No results to report yet. Maybe I need a pro to look over my shoulder while I am mixing a new batch. (I mean really, how hard can this be?) Paul

thanks Emerald. I realize that there is not one simple answer to understanding coral's relationship to light. But you have given me something to work with, in particular the idea of watching/studying my tank daily.

Who is the unlucky car owner?

That makes sense. But I am still wondering how I can tell if a coral is not getting enough light, and how quickly too much light will kill a coral.

Are you saying that if LFS sells me an acro that has been under bright light (like 350 PAR), then I can start the newly purchased stick at the top of my rocks? Yes, I have done the PAR meter survey of my tank.