Bevo5

I’ve got five or six you can have. I’m in Ne Portland. Shoot me a text: 512-731-7609. 

I'm not sure. I want something I can hang so it still looks slick. It's an 80x24in tank so I'm not really sure how much light I'd need for coverage. In the past I've gone as simple as fluorescents with 50/50 bulbs and the fish pop. 

If I could kick a brown diatom algae bloom I'd leave my lights on a lot more - but the brown just wont go away.

Thanks all - they're not pros. Just standard. So 250-300 eh?

They look pretty awesome hanging above the tank. After factoring in the cost of replacement lights I might just keep em....

I'm just curious what y'all think a fair price would be for three Radion X30's (Generation 3). I have the hanging rail kits as well. 

Debating whether or not to sell them and I'm just sure it's worth it....figured I'd see what y'all think.

I have that same netgear bridge. (Knock on wood) hasn't lost connection in the 6 months since I set it up.

I used to have an older Netgear bridge - it was the slim black one. I'd lose connection 10-20 times a day. But that one linked it great.

Then...but a 100ft ethernet cord to do updates. I got one on amazon for like $15. I run it out when I need to update, then throw it in the closet for the rest of the time. 

I’ve got a couple of each. Pm. I’m in ne Portland if you’re interested. 

I've got a Spectrapure 180GPH 4-stage RODI unit with the additional booster pump and basically new filters. The RO filters were replaced and only used for a few months. The other filters are all basically brand new (very limited use) and I have spares of all three. I have to collect them all but at least one of each....

I'm thinking $200 takes it all?

The real suck of it all is that ich can come in on anything - as people have noted. The spores can rest on rocks, corals, gravel, whatever. The only way to truly be safe is to QT/Treat all incoming fish and then keep all new corals etc. in a fallow tank for the full 74 days, which sucks.

Definitely a lot of methods and ideas on how best to handle ich. I spent the past year looking for every possible cure before I finally went fallow. There are a lot of very smart, very helpful people in the world who have spent years working on various ideas to handle ich safely. If you could invent a reef safe cure for ich and dinos you'd be a millionaire! It just doesn't exist. Lots and lots of products claim to work, but if you dig deep into the experiences people have, you'll see that these products are mostly snake oil. 

Garlic helps stimulate hunger, which is great for fish that aren't feeling 100% and thus might not eat. By helping them eat you're giving them more fire power to fight ich, but just for the sake of conversation - the garlic itself doesn't do anything as far as treating or eliminating ich. I absolutely add garlic to food anytime the fish have any issue whatsoever. It definitely can't hurt. The benefit is that a stronger/healthier fish is more likely to suppress ich, and garlic works towards that.

I think there are all sorts of anecdotal cures and preventative techniques and I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from trying whatever they want but for the sake of pushing people to learn more - I'd just caution that garlic isn't an alternative to true treatment options. Not to say it doesn't help...

hi - sorry, I'm a bit confused.

I'm sure your plan is good. Just remember - the water, rocks, inverts need to be somewhere fallow for 74 days. So if you move fish to the tote and then put everything in the new tank and let it wait - perfect.

Cupramine is effective in 14 days I believe. 

White dots on the fish is most likely ich. Velvet would be the other possibility but it's probably ich if he's not dead. I've heard velvet can hide for a couple weeks, but a month seems like a long time to wait for velvet. I'm absolutely no expert, though.

You don't need to do copper and hypo - just one works, and I've always had great luck with Cupramine. Just remove all of the substrate/rock from the QT (assuming you have other biological filtration handy - like foam pads from main tank etc). The key to Cupramine is keeping it in the effective window, so get a test kit - the Seachem test kit is the one that works with cupramine.

Here's the bad news - assuming it's ich, which I am, it's in your main tank 100%. Every fish now has it - whether or not they are showing symptoms. It's possible no other fish will ever show spots, or they all could. As long as there are fish in the tank, the ich is there. Any new fish will probably come down with it - as they will be more stressed etc.

Many people opt to just ignore it and see how it goes. That's certainly an option that you can go with, as the only way to treat the tank is to go fallow (assuming you have inverts). So to fully cure the tank you'd have to take the fish out and leave it fallow for 74 days. 

That will suck - But - the good side of that is you could then restart the tank 100% ich free and properly QT everything before putting them in the tank. Even if your current fish don't show symptoms, you're going to have it pop up again at some point. So just biting the bullet now is something to consider.

Well - unfortunately I'm out of the salt game. Just nobody else in town to talk to about aquariums than you guys.

I'd fill it up with 12 wild caught Kitumba Frontosas.  

Anybody keep a big tank in their garage? I'm thinking about it, but I imagine the heating bill would be crazy. I can't heat the garage, so it would be a 300w heater on at all time. Maybe two.

I need someone to please convince me that there's no reason to fill up the empty 180g that's sitting in my garage. 

Thanks in advance.

So is that bucco sold?

Also interested in the bucco if pdxmonkey skips it.

Any other full grown or colored up males? Post pics?

Off topic - but would anybody be interested in F1 mobas? I'm considering setting up a breeding tank with a spare 180 I have. Curious what the market would be.

Been out of town for a bit - and no return to PM's....so if someone wants this thing just make me an offer.

Yup. I asked when I got it. Jeff, as always, is very awesome and very helpful. The worst part of tearing down my tank is that I don't go to the store every Sunday now. 

When I do go in it just makes me want to set up a new tank.

I've got $250 in live stock credit at cuttlefish. 

Thinking $200 is a good deal for it.

Save yourself some money!

That one is cool - nice that it's portable. I need that size spinning thing also, much easier.

BTW - the noise is from the little magnet they sent with the unit. It's too big so it rattles on the glass. I'm ordering a few smaller ones.

I just got this little magnetic lab spinner and it's super fun to test with. Way easier. For this test I have to go one drop at a time and shake...to measure general hardness of a freshwater tank. It's normally a PITA. This thing made it super easy...highly recommend. 

Lots of smart people here but you should also post over on reef2reef. There are a couple of straight up illness experts who can probably help. Not to take away from anyone here, but might be worth it. 

Water change and re-dose the new water with cupramine to keep in range. That's totally ok and actually helpful since everyone likes cleaner water. Just do the math on what your new water needs and drop in cupramine to Match display. 

I'll take $40!

Just a bristle worm and an asterina star. Neither is going to cause you problems - the bristle worms are good little tank cleaners, but can get out of hand if the conditions are right. Also, don't touch 'em. It hurts.

Those are all fairly common hitchhikers that are [language filter] near impossible to avoid...but again, not a real problem either.