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Posts posted by milesmiles902
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Hey everyone,
Recently, I have been using a GFCI adapter for my aquarium, but sometimes I notice that the it trips. Not all the time, but sometimes. I think it is just a random trip of them plug, which is bound to happen every once and a while.
I think running a GFCI is a good idea, but how my plugs system works, it will either shut off my power-heads or my return pump. I wouldn't dare to keep them on the same plug because if the GFCI trips, they will both go out. This way, I can limit the reduction in flow when one of them trips.
Here is my general plug system:
1. Lights, powerheads, heaters and doser
2. Return pump, sump light and skimmer
What do you all do?
How do you cover your power strips from a random drop of water or creep of salt?
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Alright. I got curious.
As we all know, different forms of light, penetrate water better or worse. This is why we see at deeper depths more blue than red light. The trend still holds true for infrared, which is at the red end of the electromagnetic scale. Blue light penetrates better than red light and far better than infrared light.
As one can see the longer the wavelength (blue < red < infrared) there is more absorption.
The right hand side, shows the relative penetration depth in the infrared region at the specific wavelength. Although, we have to remember this is on a log scale. The amount of light absorbed increases by a factor of 10 for depth every unit displayed.
So, now it depends on the strength of the infrared laser in the gun. I couldn't seem to find it on the amazon page, but I bet it is weak. We would probably only penetrate 1-2 mm in depth.
Long story, because the thickness of glass, point it at the surface of water and not the side of the tank.
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It's temperature gun. Just point and shoot.
The penetration depth depends on the density of the water, but I bet it approaches 1 inch. Surface water is best, but the side of the tank also work.
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Yeah. You have to calibrate them against a thermometer. Just like our refractometers against a known 1.026 solution.
That one isn't the exact same as the one I bought, but it is quite similar. I paid ~14 bucks for mine and it works accurately up to 3 ft. After that distance, you usually just get the room temp.
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All about these infrared probes. $9.84 on amazon:
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Calcium and alkalinity should only be dosed if they are needed. Most of the time, we experience fluctuations of calcium and alkalinity between water changes because...well..corals need them. Softys consume less of them, and likely will need little to no dosing. Water changes should be fine.
If you are curious, I would begin by measuring your calcium and alkalinity and see if they are in an acceptable range. These are still just rough numbers, but give you a good idea where you should be.
If you are drastically below the range of your chemical or ion, I would begin dosing.
All brands work, just be consistent with what and when you dose. It's also a good idea to test more often than not.
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Whoo!!
Nice to see the resurrection of another aquariast, like a phoenix being reborn. We never stop.
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Oh, gosh. I misspoke.
You're right. Glyphosate is mixed with a surfactant in Round-up. I just swore I remember that it, itself, was a surfactant. My mistake.
Although, after looking deeper, where the surfactant is applied on the plant (I.e. root, leaves, stem) plays a larger factor in the survival of the plant than the surfactant itself. While there are surfactants that when applied to any part of the plant will kill it.
I guess there are more factors in the home made weed killer than I thought.
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I was also thinking after reading, it might just be the soap.
Soap is a darn good surfactant and that's what can easily kill a lot of plants. That's all Round-Up Weed Killer is.
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1 hour ago, matty said:
Just out of curiosity, google "Peanut Worm"
I'm not saying Chewie is wrong, it just has characteristics of a peanut worm and they are harmless.
I'm still unsure because I have never seen either. Although, it does look like it has some sort of appendages/legs, which makes me lean towards eunicid, but again, I've never seen either one.
Peanut Worm:
Eunicid Worm:
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I think 80 lbs would be enough. Although, you should try to arrange them in the tank before you fill it up. With the dimensions of the tank and overflows, you might notice the structure will change.
Also, I usually turn everything on inside of the aquarium. Shouldn't be a problem.
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6 minutes ago, spectra said:
Looking good! Now you need a black sun coral......................
I didn't even know those existed.
We should now be proclaim them as the solar eclipse coral.
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You did a good job with those photos! I find it so hard to get the fish to come to the glass to get a side shot.
What did you do to coerce them?
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I can't thank everyone enough for this event. Everything was coordinated so well and everything went so smoothly.
Thanks again. Keep on being awesome!
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Bill, your tank is a showstopper. You need to stop hiding this jewel!
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That thing looks as healthy as ever. What a nice snag.
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This was an amazing day. Thank you for all the hard work Kim and Sirena. The schedule was awesome, the party bus was the killer, and the burritos...don't get me started on the burritos. I loved them.
I can't thank you enough.
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She's an artist.
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1 hour ago, spectra said:
one word NO
I wont be there so..............I really don't care but have to give you [language filter].
I was thinking along with lines of Yoko Ono.
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Can I pick the music tomorrow?
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That blows. I guess this just means we need to pick up our game.
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1 hour ago, Emerald525 said:
I was also hoping to see Bob Moore come back another year.
In my opinion negativity and finger pointing can really stall momentum and it sounds like that's a bit of what happened with Bob Moore.
All you really need is a small group of passionate hobbyists to get the ball rolling again. That's how I got involved in the first place. There were things that I wanted to see happen so I did what I could to make that happen. Which reminds me, elections are currently running and please speak up if you are interested in being a part of the team. It does take time but it is a lot of fun!
I didn't know it wasn't coming back :( That's sad.
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Tank healp
in General Discussion
Posted
I am not sure if the cloudiness comes from the glass or the water, but just in case:
Run carbon immediately and do a water change every other day. I imagine the cloudiness will go away very quick.
Test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. Let us know what they are and we can give some guidance.