MVPaquatics

They can even vary a little with just a little dust left in the packet. Or also, they can very with how hard the sample was shaken or how Long it was shaken. There are a lot of variables.

Don't do acrylic. Acrylic expands and shrinks with temp difference which will weaken and break any adhesive bond to the glass. Much easier and safer long term to leave the strap on. Cut that glass out. Put in a new piece. Clean the edges of the tank where you will silicone it. Silicone it in. And let it cure for like a week before removing the strap.

I'm sorry to say no glue will hold that. It's more practical to replace

Awesome! Not to hijack your thread at all. But I did a little bit of a writeup a few years ago. I used to crank these guys out. I had it all posted here but it was lost in the crash. I could post it again but here is a link to it over at reef central. I hadn't checked in there for a while and I see there was a pretty big response. I guess I should follow up with it http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990387

I posted in the first link emerald posted. I have used both the kits I have linked in her link. I have buffed dozens of tanks. They both work well. Either can be used inside a full tank. I would lower the water line to prevent splashing. I wouldnt use one that uses magnets. Hand pressure is key. With each grit of paper you start with more pressure and end with lighter pressure. Then move to next level grit. Make sure the tank panel is clean before hand. If you get coraline or a piece of sand or even some algaes in the pad and go to scrub you can do more harm than good causing more scratches. I used to go to people's houses and buff their tanks. They got charged less if they were really clean before I started. It's important and makes for less work and an easier process. Like a good paint job a lot goes into prep work.

Banggai cardinals might look good in there

Yeah photos!

I went to the bowtech factory a few years ago and had one specially made for me. I don't know much about recurves though. I would look at cabelas. They have a good assortment. Also, there is a place in Lebanon that was known for their knowledge, I think it was called the archery hut. He helped me with a lot of things.

I have purchased it for my RO at hydroponics stores locally. Sold by the foot. In case you didn't want to ship and buy so much

I think that's a good plan. Prazi is pretty benign so I think it's worth another treatment to be sure

Really comes down to whether your fluke was an egg laying Dactylogyrus species or a live bearing Gyrodactylus species. Prazi will kill pretty much all live bearers in one treatment. Egg laying species need a few because prazi doesn't kill the egg stage so you have to wait for them to hatch and kill them then. And there could be multiple stages of development so timing can be difficult to determine when all eggs have hatched but before more are laid. Edit: I should note that prazi will still take a big dent out of the egg bearing population, relieving the fish of some of the load. But they can come back. Longer term or multiple treatments are needed for total eradication

Kanaplex is an antibiotic so I have a feeling it is killing your bacteria and inhibiting the cycling. Just the nature of the beast

I'll have to look around I have pics stashed all over. That was the clam tank where the whole tank overflowed into a gutter system and then to a sump. It was cool. Like a weeping wall tank. I'll try to find some pics

Also http://www.marinedepot.com/Lifegard_Aquatics_Acrylic_Scratch_Removal_Kit_72000_Tank_Cleaning_Kits_for_Saltwater_Aquariums-Lifegard_Aquatics-RB1551-FIMTCK-vi.html I have them both. They are both nice. I probably prefer the pentair pads vs the lifeguard fabric like sheets

Yes. They have sandpaper kits. You can do it, it's just like wetsanding. Paper/foam pads goes like 150 grit, 250,400,600,1200 etc. Just don't use final polish inside the tank. Directions are pretty straight forward. https://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productdetailas.asp?did=5&cid=109&pid=1737

Was I that friend? I have done it. It does get covered in all types of algae and it is a pain to clean. The gritty surface is an excellent algal foothold

If you haven't met Dr Tim before I would highly recommend attending. The guy is sort of a legend in the aquaculture community.

Temperature differential. The bigger the difference the more the issue. Tank temp is similar to house temp. Not so much in a garage in winter or summer

You can insulate your sump for temp control. Take off in summer. Add like 1-1.5 inch insulation during winter. I will mention. I had tanks in my garage once. Prepare for rust. Tools. Anything metal that's not aluminum or galvanized will probably rust. Either cover it or vent the garage or something. It's worth considering. I doubt the car would do much. Especially if it's newer. Maybe if it was an old diesel it may haha.

Voted. Name is Mahar over there

Imagine using your water change water to fuel your ride! http://www.offgridquest.com/mobility/salt-water-powered-car

Whoa whoa whoa hold the phone! Way to go buddy! Couldn't be a better guy for the job. Congrats Robert!

Well a fallow period is usually what 6-8 weeks or so? So if you have him in observation during that period and don't see visual signs I would feel relatively safe adding it back to a system. The life cycle of ich would happen many times during that 6-8 weeks and one mandatory stage is the trophont stage when the parasites are visable as white spots on the fish. If you don't see them in 6-8 weeks you may be fine. You can also take this observation a step further and do skin scrapes and microscopic analysis. Very easy to do even for a hobbiest with access to microscope. Take a slide or slide cover and scrape the fish from head to tail usually on the side or belly with medium pressure (hard enough to get slime coat off but not so hard to take scales). Put onto a slide. Add a drop of tank water and add a cover slide or cover slip. Look under a microscope for the ciliated parasite. It's a very basic diagnostic technique used my professional fish keepers to diagnose diseases. Do it weekly to be safe and again treat if necessary.

Realistically you could probably add it if the QT tank permits and will maintain stability. If it were me though I would keep seperate from the display and QT tank and only treat when/if it showed signs. Otherwise I would let the display go fallow and just use that time to observe the shark and treat if needed. I like to treat conservatively and only when needed. Others may prefer the better safe than sorry approach. You will have to judge your circumstances and act accordingly

The shark is less likely to get the ich but it's best to remove it from the environment as to not be a resevior host. You are correct that sharks and other elaamobranchs are not keen on a lot of treatments but infected fish will need treatment and the treatments I listed are among the best options. Remove. Observe and treat if necessary