XrayGuy

I have two of them over my 93 gal cube. I just set the tank up, so I do not have experience with coral growth yet, but I can say that they are easy to set up and program for the timers (built in). You can also adjust the % of daylight and actinic light (channel 1 and channel 2).

Awesome!! Dang that was fast work thanks

I would like to suggest that we can see the location of members again in case we want to try to meet up for trades or whatever so that we do not have to PM them to ask where they are located.

I just ordered a few things as well!

105 Tap water - City of Vancouver (i think) Felida/98685

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Ok so I took out my first 20 long sump because the baffles were not done well (by me) and the water levels were not really working for the return either. The plumbing needed a small adjustment for the return also so that the intake had more room to suck water instead of being almost against the glass in the corner. Oh and one question about the return intake...would it be beneficial to have the white 90* elbow on there like in the picture or leave that off? I just put that on today because I have seen some people having that on there. Thoughts? I got a new 20 long and I have a new way that I want to try to set this sump up and I would like feedback on it. I am planning to have the skimmer in the drain section (12"), then a refugium section for chaeto and some rock to hopefully be a home for some pods (11"), and finally my return section (7"). Between the refugium and return, I want to make some sort of little egg crate shelf to be able to set bags of media such as carbon and maybe some filter floss to make sure that debris isn't getting into the return. The baffle heights I am not sure about, but I know that I want a 3 baffle bubble trap...should this be before or after the refugium? With the baffle heights, I need to make sure that my sump can take on the corner overflow water and a little of the tank water for when power is out. Also, my skimmer's recommended water level is 5-6", but I can always make a little stand for that so it is higher (I have about 3.5" of clearance to raise it). Here are some pics.... This is where I am getting my idea from

My birthday is coming up soon and I told the wife I want one of those too!

I may just do that. Yeah I guess it just needs to barely be wider than those outside screws huh? I like the idea!

Vanz I did it! Thank you for the idea. I like that the lights will always be aligned together now and less hooks/wires to look at. Home Depot, 2x 3' aluminum flat pieces, power drill to drill a few holes, bolt cutters to clip the sides, and some spray paint

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I also went to TAP plastics yesterday and got some acrylic trim pieces that I will be using to make some screens for the cube and my nano tank. I got the acrylic from TAP because I want to try to make the screen as invisible as possible. Just waiting for the clear screen mesh to arrive from BRS so I can start. Will update when I get that those together

Cool I will check HD and see what they have. As for overflow noise, I originally had cut my emergency drain pipe to a couple inches below the wier (sp?) and there was definitely some water sound. So I took some scrap PVC I had the other day and made a little cap extension thing so that the drain is a little taller gain (did not want to shut the whole thing down to take that drain pipe out, hence I just made an extension) and now it is super quiet. I would say the pipe is now about 1/2" below the wier now. Now I just have some humming from my return pump, but I will just have to live with that.

Looking nice and clean! What is that acrylic box in the tank for?

Where would I be able to pick up said channels?

I am also debating whether to put some black paper or whatever on the back of the tank so that the wires and wall are not visible, but then I will not be able to look in from that back glass if I want to see something from that view. I am ordering longer power cords for the lights so that I can run the cords along the light hanging bar, so it will mainly just be the wall and the powerhead wires that will be seen. Thoughts?

A little update. Decided to get a second Ocean Revive Arctic T247. I want to be sure that I have enough light coverage for the tank for any type of corals I may want to throw in there. Adding the second light to my DIY hanger was a bit of a challenge though because the wire that attaches the wire kit to the fixture is only long enough to orient on the short sides, but about an inch or 2 short of being able to go the long way. So I ended up getting these little copper wire stoppers along with 14" stainless steel wire to be able to make new longer wires to orient the lights the other direction...if that all makes sense. Also, attaching the copper stoppers to the wire was unsuccessful with solder, but I got some super glue and that worked like a charm...I should have just done that to begin with. Anyways, I let them cure up and pulled on them as hard as I could to ensure that they were attached to the wires really well...don't want my lights falling in the tank. AFTER BEFORE

OMG wow that is crazy. I have two kids and if they did that, Daddy would not be a happy camper. Kids sometimes do the most innocent cute things that mess stuff up though and you just can't stay mad at them...well I suppose it depends on what they messed up (enforcer) At least it didn't kill your whole tank though!

Please share this story...you have my attention (waving)

Welcome to the club! Looks like a great tank.

You are getting there!

I have not yet ordered the netting online, so I will be checking out Ace. I am all about not losing any light. I almost got some of the aluminum netting at HD but then I read that aluminum will corrode. Thank you for the tip!

Hey Cor4eyh, I appreciate the thought, but I am going to just buy a roll and make screens for both the tanks. One will be 3' x 3' and the other will be like 10" x 12".

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I have checked WinCo and Fred Meyer and didn't see them. Also looked at HD and Lowe's with no luck