Harold B

Ya I think/hope I was just lucky and caught it so soon that I was able to get'em.

It seemed to me that they stayed mostly local to the corals they were infesting rather than swimming all over the tank. Just my observation.

I used a little 2 1/2 gallon tank for treating my rack. Followed the instructions for dipping treatment on melves reef site it took about an hour /or two and rinsed then things were fine. The little tank was full of dead reds. All you need is somthing big enough for the smooth skinned corals to be placed in and a small pump for circulation. I know its easier said than done though. Good luck.

PM replied to ...

WOW thats one busy CUC on that clam.

I have only limited experience with the RB's BUT...... I brought a frag (or 2) home from a fellow reefer and ended up with'em on multiple frags on a frag rack and I definatly noticed the unhappyness of my corals on that particular rack. Retracted polyps, stunted growth overall unhappy. I personally can't deal with'em, best to be proactive and avoid an epidemic IMO.

Does it already have a shrader valve on the line for charging/recovery of refrigerant?

Would like to find a good home for the RBTA and the Blue/Green and Red favia. I guess I was mistaken it's not exactly Green and Red (christmas favia) more AquaBlue and Red (thanks Reefnjunkie) Willing to accept SPS pieces I don't have for trade. Thanks Harold

First 60 degree day Bump!! Get it set up before it gets any warmer. $350.00

It's in the classified section. ($350) Just serviced by PC before storing.

Chances are that you killed any/all cyno leaving the door open for a dinoflagellate bloom due to what I suspect might have been the original problem which is silicates/phospates. Just a "guess" without knowing any info.

If I were you i'd call PC and ask them they'll lead you in the right direction, besides you'll need to call to get parts from them anyway. Sounds like an easy fix though. As long as the compressor kicks on it's worth fixin IMO. Thanks Harold ps.If you can't get it fihured out I have a CL-650 for sale.

I skim dark but not sludge I don't recommend wet skimming unless you take in to consideration that an ATO will likely be droping your salinity. Thanks Harold

RDSB works but limiting imported nutrients along with macro, MB-7 & reef Bio-fuel is almost a sure bet IMO

Verry Nice!!

B-U-M-P!!!!!!!

Must be the water over there.

IME if the compressor won't turn on,it could be a bad relay,temp switch ect. it's worth getting checked out but if the compressor turns out to be shot it usally not worth replacing. Sorry

On second thought you should pour a glass of warm water in the holes to fill up the tank (quart at the most) some won't start without it. (saftey feature)

To test pull off the caps the hoses are hooked to, plug it in, you should here the compressor kick on sounds like a fridge running you can't mistake it, stick your finger in the hole and see if it's getting cold. It either works or it doesn't. Just sayin.

Cool, Ya I used the MB-7 verry rarely mostly the bio-fuel. Thanks Harold

Ya it makes perfect sence. Have you ever tried to talk to Justin (avast) about that issue? There might be a fix for it, I know they do extensive testing so they might be able to help ya with it. So you do alot of carbon dosing along with O3? What exactly do you dose? I used MB-7 and Reef Bio-fuelbefore going with the O3 set-up with good results but I thought it was a one or the other kinda choice as to the main method of nitrafication/nutrient breakdown, bacterial or O3. I thought O3 limits the colonization of the "extra" bacteria that carbon dosing would promote.

Will do. My SWC has an extra nipple on the volute for O3 but I couldn't bring myself to do it. After seeing how brittle it seems to make things, even when they are "ozone safe" i'm glad I chose the reactor route. I thought about getting the Swabbie,How does it work for ya? Pics? I run my skimmate into a gallon jug but I find myself cleaning off the inside of my cup every 2-3 days since it works alot better clean. I talked to Justin at Avast about getting one and was thinking about making a little water spraying system for when it wipes the cup( a piece of RO tube with holes on a timer), but he said it doesn't need it that it cleans it verry well on it's own. I'm curious to know your thoughts on the Swabbie. Thanks Harold

WOW! I just noticed that my water coming out of my RO unit to the DI is at 10 TDS. Time to put the filters that have been sitting around to use. I checked out the BRS site and they say that RO membranes usally last about 3 years. Is this True for us here in the Portland area? I changed my sediment filter and both carbon blocks and the DI resin is on its way. I've been using this RO/DI for just over a year 18 months max and flush it often, so my membrane should be ok, Right? How often do you all change your RO membranes?

Thanks for putting a link up i'm not sure how to do it. I just thought it might be a good idea for those who bought the BB to have an early warning before somthing happened. I sure am glad I went with the Askoll.